takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Clothes

takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Sat Sep 14, 2013 8:32 pm

Image

The romantic ideal of the tortured artiste is always in fashion — even so, the Number (N)ine designer Takahiro Miyashita seems to take special pains to suffer for his craft. When planning the portrait that accompanies this article, he asked that his face be obscured, perhaps fearing that the gigantic frames he wears wouldn’t provide sufficient cover. During our interview, he fielded several questions with enigmatic pronouncements like ‘‘You would have to ask my brain’’ and ‘‘I am a shadow.’’ At times, he simply stared into space, as if submerged in an autistic trance. Thus the sobriquet ‘‘Taka the oyster.’’

Miyashita is part of a relatively new wave of Japanese designers,including Junya Watanabe, Undercover’s Jun Takahashi and Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments and Woolrich Woolen Mills, who are obsessed with American style; in Miyashita’s case, his dark side yields clothes of paradoxical luminosity. His fall collection, My Own Private Portland, features updated Northwest classics like plaid shirts, fur-lined trapper hats and nubby, grungy cardigans. In the spring of 2009, his Lonesome Heroes dudes will be sporting a mishmash of brocades and Navajo patterns.

At 16, Miyashita came to the States and fell in love with Americana. While his contemporaries were struggling with algebra and first dates, he was assisting stylists for Japanese magazines like the defunct Check Mate. ‘‘I got expelled from school because I did so many things,’’ he says cryptically, before admitting to having smoked pot. Miyashita spent his days on the streets of Harajuku and Shibuya, the epicenters of Tokyo teenage street style; what little money he had he spent on clothes, which he’d tear apart in order to remake and customize them. Through this process he taught himself how to design and started working with Nepenthes, a label that specialized in American-inspired clothing. Eventually he began traveling regularly to the States for research, focusing on cities like Austin, Tex.; Butte, Mont.; and his favorite, Portland, Ore.

Miyashita wears his pop-culture infatuations on his sleeve — and everywhere else. On a recent afternoon in Paris, he sported old khakis with Birkenstocks, a lumberjack shirt, a Victorian-inspired vest, a dangling fur satchel, an assortment of necklaces and trinkets, a jeweled guitar pin, a large stone ring, a leather cuff, a big plastic watch, a rakish hat and a crumpled cigarette pack worn as a brooch. His shows are set to the tracks of idols like Nirvana and Johnny Cash. He constantly adds to the collection of vintage clothes, records and images that inform his work; ‘‘The Outsiders’’ and ‘‘Rumble Fish’’ are two of his favorite movies, and he’s crazy for Joseph Szabo’s pictures of American teenagers in the ’70s and Slater Bradley’s ‘‘Doppelgänger Trilogy’’ featuring Kurt Cobain.

‘‘What sets us apart from older Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto is that we are much more influenced by youth culture and, especially, music,’’ says Jun Takahashi, Miyashita’s close friend. He’s right: while their predecessors have traditionally focused on intellectual experiments with texture and shape, these new designers have an innate understanding of global street trends. Miyashita, who not surprisingly loves American punk rock, has formed two bands, the Highstreets and the Ivory. ‘‘I still believe that music can change culture,’’ he says. (The name Number (N)ine refers to the Beatles’ ‘‘Revolution 9.’’) ‘‘I just made a song called ‘Dark Shadow,’ ’’ he says. ‘‘The lyrics say, ‘Please, please, please kill me.” All my work, whether it’s in fashion or music, is about rebellion and not being conventional.’’

He recently traveled to Portland to see Wipers, a favorite band, but says he’d instantly give up music if he had to choose between that and fashion. His men’s line is growing steadily, and he hopes to further develop his women’s range, which at the moment consists only of adapted versions of his men’s collection. ‘‘Without fashion, I would have nothing,’’ he says earnestly. ‘‘It’s my life.’’

It’s the quintessential designer sound bite, but in this case it feels painfully real.

- Armand Limnander


Image

When Number (N)ine designer Takahiro Miyashita suddenly shuttered his critically beloved, occasionally gonzo line after Fall 2009, fans of his avant-garde menswear were bereft. Good news for them, then: After a little time off the radar, Miyashita is back with a new line, The Soloist, which he debuted in Tokyo’s tony Azabu district last week.

He’s emerged playing a more serene song than before. While his former label offered collections often inspired by rock ‘n’ roll, The Soloist is quieter, in cut and color. Eschewing concepts and themes, Miyashita describes this unisex range as clothes he wants to wear—right down to the sizing, which is based on his own ultra-slim figure. (That’s him in the new collection, pictured.)

The first collection, “Symphony 0001″ for Fall ’10, began with a jacket, constructed with more than five sewing machines and as many different fabrics. There’s almost a couture feel to the ragged edges, which are created by hand-ripping the fabrics after they’re sewn. The pieces get only more complex from there: There are shirts with removable vest overlays and hand-sewn snaps, hybrid jodhpur trousers with fake plackets, customizable tees and tanks trailing ribbon details.

“It’s really about me…My lifestyle and my spirit are the key elements,” the designer explained simply. (He’s a man of few words.) But his iconoclastic spirit is evident in the unisex styling and his timing—he’s showing Fall ’10 now, while most of his fellow designers are showing Spring ’11. That spirit will also dictate the form of the collections to come: He hopes to refresh them 12 times a year rather than on the usual Fall/Spring schedule. But there will be no more radical changes from season to season, just tweaks and evolutions of the essentials: “Designing a piece and then abandoning it makes me feel sorry for it; it’s a waste.”

—Tiffany Godoy
  • 2

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Sat Sep 14, 2013 9:08 pm

Image

In 1996, Takahiro Miyashita launched the brand Number (N)ine in Tokyo, Japan. Named after the Beatles song "Revolution 9," Takahiro draws flintstone from his obsessive fascination with rock n' roll and american culture. Elements of the American West, sportswear, grunge, punk, and the military are all present in the aesthetic of Number (N)ine.

The debut collection was in A/W 2000.2001, the collection was nicknamed "Redisun". The keynote and predominant colour in this collection was black/white. One of the signature pieces in this collection includes the "Spider jacket". Also there were some beautiful accessories, including some awesome scarves.

The second collection was "Time Migration" in S/S 2001. In this collection Taka experimented with "colour fading" and chemically processed garments.
Key pieces from this collection include pointed sandals and "MILK & COOKT" t-shirts.

A/W 2001.2002 was simple called “Standard”. This was Taka’s big turning point, he got a lot of attention with this collection. Some of the special features in this collection includes some argyle knit sweaters and the introduction of the fender monogram. Signature pieces include a Napoleon jacket, the beautifully crafted accessories and the aforementioned argyle knit sweaters and fender monogram pieces.

The beatnik generation was the main theme of the S/S 2002 collection, which was named “Modern Age”. Since it was shortly after the 9/11 attacks, it was also strongly influenced by that situation. He showed a lot of different pants, including cargo pants and some deconstructed jeans with patches and ink stains. It should also be mentioned that it was after this collection that one of the original founders left the N(N) team and started his own brand called “Pledge” – a more affordable version of N(N), but still using somewhat same aesthetics. Signature pieces include the “I Love Gotham” t-shirt, his trenches and some cut-up sneakers.

The A/W 2002.2003 collection was called “No Whereman”. This collection was bohemian inspired and had ivory & chocolate as the keynote colours. For this collection Taka used fabrics like wool, rabbit fur, tweed, and corduroy. Signature pieces include mud processed jeans, flannel shirts, patchwork shirts, fur boots and fur sandals.

There was one year between “No Whereman” and the next collection, the S/S collection wasn’t produced or shown on the runway, because Taka had a serious illness that prevented him from doing anything.

S/S 03 and A/W 2003.2004 was made into one single collection due to his illness prior to that year. The comeback collection was called “Touch Me I’m Sick – A New Morning”. Some die-hard N(N) had complained about this collection, mainly because of the declining quality, due to the fact that Taka was utilizing used cloth to create the pieces. But since they were “die-hard” N(N) fans, they still stuck around. This was also the collection where the “crying/bleeding heart” logo was introduced, which eventually became a symbol of this collection. Key pieces include, his well-crafted necklaces, boots, velvet jackets and pajamas jackets + pants.

S/S 04 was called “Dream baby dream”

F/W 04, called “Give Peace A Chance” : http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2004...R_9/index.html

S/S 05, named “Night Crawler” : http://firstview.com/MENspring2005/N...INE/index.html

Not much information about F/W 05.06

S/S 06, named “Welcome to the Jungle” I think.. As you can see it’s pretty much inspired by Axel Rose. : http://firstview.com/MENspring2006/N...INE/index.html

F/W 06.07 – An irish/celtic/goth influenced collection named “Noir”.

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60/of ... 43582.html


S/S 2001
Image
Image
Image

A/W 2001

Image



A/W 2005



Image


S/S 2006

http://vimeo.com/56723045

Image

F/W 2006

Image
Image
Image
Image

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/showpo ... stcount=15

S/S 2007

Image
Image
Image

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2007MEN-NNMEN

F/W 2007

Image
Image

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2007MEN-NNMEN

S/S 2008

Image
Image
Image

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2008MEN-NNMEN

F/W 2008

Image
Image
Image

S/S 2009

Image
Image
Image

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complet ... N/#slide=0

F/W 2009

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2009MEN-NNMEN
  • 4

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Sat Sep 14, 2013 9:37 pm

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
  • 3

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:01 pm

Image

About a month after Number (N)ine became defunct, Takahiro announced a new brand, named The Soloist. Though not as rock & roll as Number (N)ine, The Soloist approaches similar themes from a new perspective. Jeans composed of different patches of vintage Levi's, ragged edges and wrinkles, animal skins, patched together outerwear and shirting, all with the same level of detail and quality as Number (N)ine, if not more.

F/W 2010

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

S/S 2011

Image
Image
Image
Image

F/W 2011

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

S/S 2012

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

F/W 2012

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

S/S 2013

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

F/W 2013

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
  • 2

Last edited by hmwut on Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:09 pm

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
  • 4

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby can- » Sun Sep 15, 2013 10:18 pm

interesting that he's into the americana thing, i see it now but previously i've always had him pegged pretty narrowly into the paul harnden/ann dem victorian scarecrow ethos. thanks for this
  • 0

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2983
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11283

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:22 am

you can find flirtations with the 19th century gentleman/dandy aesthetic well into his earlier collections, it being very apparent in his 2006 collections. however, he makes a clear shift in design choice in his last two collections for number (n)ine, they're essentially precursors to what would be fully imagined in The Soloist. i prefer the americana/rock-inspired stuff, but F/W 2009 is by far my favorite season for Miyashita. what a fucking show.

you can see somewhat of a revival of number (n)ine's earlier "look" in S/S 13 of the Soloist, but other than that miyashita is doing quite a bit of sportswear, which is not unlike some of what daiki suzuki is doing. stuff is crazy expensive though. luckily number (n)ine stuff goes for pretty cheap on rak and y!jp, and i've managed to pick up a few pieces, all of which i've been consistently impressed with. i'm not super interested in artisanal quality clothing, but the little details and fit/quality of all the pieces i've bought are far beyond practically all of the designer pieces i've bought. really have made an impression on me. when i have time i'll post a few detail shots of the pieces i have.
  • 1

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby germinal » Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:22 am

good thread hmmwhat

details of my miyashita pieces:

number (n)ine tank (ss08)
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image

soloist shirt (aw11)
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

soloist tee (ss11, i think)
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


soloist stuff in particular is amazing wrt fabrics/patterning/construction etc
you can really see why it costs what it does (though it doesn't make the prices any more palatable)
  • 0

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby bels » Tue Sep 17, 2013 3:26 pm

That fashion week looking pic with the bokeh and 80 layers is stupid.

Stuff looks way cooler in the look books etc
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4978
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18311

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby germinal » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:17 pm

  • 2

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby kill-9 » Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:12 pm

his pieces hits a niche for me. my favorite pair of shoes are the adidas x soloists and that barely brushes upon his collections.
  • 0

User avatar
kill-9
 
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 5:33 pm
Reputation: 31

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby soundclip989 » Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:46 pm

Good thread.

I really like the final n(n) collections like this:

Image

And I'm totally in love with most of The Soloist. Especially his use of grey tones.
  • 0

User avatar
soundclip989
 
Posts: 376
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:17 pm
Reputation: 3704

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hmwut » Thu Oct 24, 2013 7:48 pm

last three n(n) collection are basically soloist. the aesthetic shift is very apparent, makes sense that he wished to start a new brand with it's own identity while leaving the spirit of number (n)ine intact.


some seriously nice pieces this season, expecting astronomical prices as usual

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

and of course the jewelleryyyyyyyyyyyyy

Image
  • 1

User avatar
hmwut
 
Posts: 217
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:24 pm
Location: New Jersey
Reputation: 1898

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby soundclip989 » Sat Nov 02, 2013 1:01 pm

That first shirt is beautiful.
  • 0

User avatar
soundclip989
 
Posts: 376
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:17 pm
Reputation: 3704

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby hunnish » Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:55 pm

really want this shirt but that price is crazy

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/kind ... 207000337/

Image
  • 2

User avatar
hunnish
 
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:47 pm
Reputation: 1228

Re: takahiro miyashita - number (n)ine and the soloist

Postby germinal » Sat Apr 26, 2014 11:00 am

symphony #0010

Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


more product shots here: http://www.fashion-press.net/collections/3049

Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
  • 6

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235


Return to Tags

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron