Thom Browne's School Days

Clothes

Thom Browne's School Days

Postby timothynguyen » Tue Nov 04, 2014 5:42 pm

Let's talk about Thommy Thom Browne. Father Thom. Supreme Leader of the TB Army.

Image

Hate it? Love it? Don't understand it? Discuss.
  • 3

User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby eyealt » Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:20 pm

I'm actually very into his basic garments. While I do like his suiting as well, I find myself very interested in the sweaters and cards with the quad striping on the sleeve. Having been in DSM and handled a few of his cashmere pieces, the quality is beautiful. Light, incredibly soft- it's what you imagine cashmere would feel like. The quad stripes are such subtle additions to the pieces but they set off what would be a simple navy card or grey sweater and make it something with a bit more "pop." Not sure they warrant such a large price increase but that's fashion and it needs to be understood that, like with the CdG heart, if you have a small detail that highlights a brand it will raise the price.

Even if the quad stripes were not associated with TB, I would still like any kind of sweater with a similar kind of detailing on the arm but in this case, it just so happens a man with an interest in cropped short suits and high price tagged pieces puts them onto his garments.

His runway stuff is also crazy. The animal heads legitimately had me laughing and that's a good thing. Breaking boundaries seems to happen all the time with runway stuff, but the animal heads were something else. Something better. Not wearable, but wickedly awesome.
  • 1

User avatar
eyealt
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:59 am
Location: Boston
Reputation: 1338

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby zayg » Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:23 pm

So unlike my aesthetic but I secretly hope to have one of his suits if I ever live in New York.
  • 1

User avatar
zayg
 
Posts: 550
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:32 pm
Reputation: 2240

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby ramseames » Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:10 pm

Quadstripe sweats are like givenchy t shirts or mmj shoes, not ugly/bad things in and of themselves but you can't escape the fact that theyre for zero taste nouveau riche fobs
  • 12

User avatar
ramseames
 
Posts: 2235
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:14 pm
Location: vancouver
Reputation: 6681

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby mc-lunar » Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:22 pm

Who is the Thom Browne man?

At what point in someones life should they wear TB? Where is it appropriate? Could someone who works for $15 an hour ever wear Thom (assuming it's what they spend their $15 on)?
  • 3

Image
User avatar
mc-lunar
 
Posts: 567
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:27 am
Reputation: 3440

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby une_impasse » Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:39 pm

I truly love him but my body type does not work with his clothing or preferred fit. I know it's supposed to be very cropped and slightly shrunken etc. but after trying his Black Fleece and mainline stuff, I have to size up or risk ruining the clothes with my broad shoulders and thunder thighs. I own a mainline sweatshirt I got second-hand, a blazer from the Neiman Marcus x Target extravaganza (get one if you can on ebay, they're amazing), and a few Black Fleece pieces. They're all different price tiers but the quality on all of them is pretty evenly matched which is a testament to his craftsmanship and integrity.

He's the closest thing America/New York has to a couture show/couture house and I think he's managed to keep his own line consistently interesting while having his hands in Moncler and Brooks Brothers, I'd love to see him at the head of a true couture house but the idea of someone so staunchly American seems unlikely. I like to think he's leading the charge of getting rid of notion that to be professional you must wear a suit, or that a suit has to be professional. Nevertheless, I hope to wear Thom Browne at my big gay wedding.
  • 1

User avatar
une_impasse
 
Posts: 211
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:38 pm
Reputation: 1048

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby timothynguyen » Wed Nov 05, 2014 3:31 am

Sorry for the lazy start. Was at work "working" when I was suggested to make a Thom thread because there was no thread. Figured I should have added more info. My bad.

une_impasse wrote:Nevertheless, I hope to wear Thom Browne at my big gay wedding.


This photo is from a Korean Thom Browne buyer. He buy's for their new Korea store. It's part of their wedding shoot.

Image

My love for the aesthetic derives from my first love which is suiting, especially in British patterns like glen plaid. I'm sure I've mentioned this somewhere before but Thom is my way to have fun with suiting. Instead of doing traditional cut's in bright colors or patterns, I choose to do the cropped look. Luckily the aesthetic fits my Asian body well.

I absolutely love his more whimsical patterns. For example, the whales.

Image


mc-lunar wrote:Who is the Thom Browne man?

At what point in someones life should they wear TB? Where is it appropriate? Could someone who works for $15 an hour ever wear Thom (assuming it's what they spend their $15 on)?


This was mentioned in an interview between Browne and Hypebeast; "Anyone who understands the importance of good tailoring and well-made clothes, anyone who will appreciate that, and someone who doesn't need overt fashion and prefers something that is simple, easy, beautifuly made and fits."

He also goes to mention that he adheres to the simplicity of appreciating a basic grey suit. "That's essentially who the Thom Browne man is, that's where it started and it's what will always be at the core of what I do. I think sometimes people get stuck on what I do in collections every season but really, I make each collection [with the core purpose of making] that classic well-made suit more interesting for every season"

"At what point in someone's life should they wear TB?" I mean that's the same question to can ask about a lot of aesthetics in general because there are a bunch of people who work 9-5's who aren't allowed to wear their Rick, Julius or SLP to the office. I don't see why the "when" can't be "right now" for everyone. Maybe he doesn't wear it to the office but daily after he gets off just go to grab some groceries just because he feels like it.

Can a dude who makes $15 an hour wear TB? Why not. Maybe he is a barista who can basically wear whatever he want's to work and likes to wear a TB cardigan, ocbd, cropped pants and longwings while he makes coffee. He might not be able to buy it retail but there are plenty of places to find TB at a deep deep discount.
  • 7

User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby bels » Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:42 am

I like Thom because the Thom man is Thom.

If I was feeling flush and saw a Thom suit at discount I'd grab it. I think most modern "informal" (suit) events are so carelessly interpreted that you could wear thom there and have it be v aggro, but not disrespectful (because 10% of the men there will be wearing jeans and a blazer anyway so who gives a shit if your trousers are too short)

Thom looks like it would be a great uniform, but it doesn't look very comfy (thomheads please correct me) so I suspect it would get annoying after a while.

What OCBD does the thom man wear? I'm assuming he doesn't buy five thom OCBDs because you know.
  • 4

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4978
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18311

Re: The Thomthynguyen Aesthetic

Postby bels » Wed Nov 05, 2014 6:58 am

If I saw a barista in Thom I would assume they were either tricked by business or had rich parents.
  • 2

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4978
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18311

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby thomaspaine » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:08 pm

@teck and I met a starbucks barista who claimed to own a bunch of Thom. He was a black (gay?) dude in his 30s or 40s, I assume he picked it up at sample sales or something.

Thom is fun to wear but yeah, it's not something that I'd want to wear every day. I like wearing suits but I think there's a reason people who have to wear suits everyday aren't walking around in ultra slim GQ or Thom fitting suits. Of course if I did have to wear a suit everyday, I'd be wearing Thom.

I love Thom but have been moving away from Thom and Black Fleece. Mainly because of the pressures to conform to a life where wearing those kind of clothes are not really socially acceptable. I could probably get away with it if I wore them everyday, but again I don't particularly want to wear Thom everyday.
  • 4

User avatar
thomaspaine
 
Posts: 303
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 2:18 pm
Reputation: 1233

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby thomaspaine » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:11 pm

What OCBD does the thom man wear? I'm assuming he doesn't buy five thom OCBDs because you know.

I absolutely think the Thom man buys 5 Thom OCBDs. This is mainly born out of my experience with having met other Thom enthusiasts that were not broke ass internet fashion nerds. In general if you have the kind of money to throw down for Thom suits you're not going to settle for an $88 brooks brothers OCBD, which would look fine in a Thom outfit btw.

Personally Thom and Black Fleece OCBDs don't fit me without having to re-tailer the entire shirt, so I wear band of outsiders.
  • 3

User avatar
thomaspaine
 
Posts: 303
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 2:18 pm
Reputation: 1233

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby saveed_samir » Thu Nov 06, 2014 7:48 am

thank god we changed the title of this thread
  • 11

User avatar
saveed_samir
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:29 pm
Reputation: 1389

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby MxmHrpr » Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:30 am

thomaspaine wrote:
Personally Thom and Black Fleece OCBDs don't fit me without having to re-tailer the entire shirt, so I wear band of outsiders.


Talking about this, @thomaspaine (or even @timothynguyen) do you have any Thom shirts you could grab the pattern for the collar on? (Measurements in this fashion) Going to have some Luxire oxfords made up and love the Thom collar just when I tried on, I didn't have a measuring tape on me.
  • 3

User avatar
MxmHrpr
 
Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:22 pm
Location: England
Reputation: 299

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby timothynguyen » Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:39 am

MxmHrpr wrote:
thomaspaine wrote:
Personally Thom and Black Fleece OCBDs don't fit me without having to re-tailer the entire shirt, so I wear band of outsiders.


Talking about this, @thomaspaine (or even @timothynguyen) do you have any Thom shirts you could grab the pattern for the collar on? (Measurements in this fashion) Going to have some Luxire oxfords made up and love the Thom collar just when I tried on, I didn't have a measuring tape on me.



Ahh damn I left for work already. I'll add this to my todolist so I dont forget to get it for you later.
  • 0

User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby teck » Thu Nov 06, 2014 5:36 pm

Thom is fun to wear but yeah, it's not something that I'd want to wear every day.


i would wear TB everyday under the condition that i was so rich that the clothing could become nearly disposable to me. TB suiting is i think very comfy, and putting on the cardigan and such you just feel so damn LUX. its a beautiful world you're putting on, not just clothes.

but its crazy high maintenance. im a dirty motherfucker and i had to really do a lot to maintain my TB clothes. dry clean, hand handwash, all that. i sold off all my tb oxfords because i didnt want to deal with it anymore. i have one tb oxford shirt, one classic suit, and two ties. i'd love to have a cardigan. i had one but it was too small. the cashmere and detailing is so amazing, its honestly a beautiful piece despite being just grey.

i wear uniqlo white oxford shirts. they're slim enough that it works well enough, plus i dont mind throwing them away if they get dirty. black fleece shirts are nice, but theyre still quite big and the collars and details only work with black fleece shirts.

here's my "I AM A TB BALLER" lifestyle list.

- 5x suits.
-1x tuxedo
-3x shoes
-15 oxford shirts
-4 ties
- 2x cardigans
-1 x trench

its the only reason i'd work for thom: unfettered access to clothes
  • 9

User avatar
teck
 
Posts: 537
Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:17 am
Reputation: 1811

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby timothynguyen » Sun Nov 09, 2014 12:38 am

MxmHrpr wrote:
thomaspaine wrote:
Personally Thom and Black Fleece OCBDs don't fit me without having to re-tailer the entire shirt, so I wear band of outsiders.


Talking about this, @thomaspaine (or even @timothynguyen) do you have any Thom shirts you could grab the pattern for the collar on? (Measurements in this fashion) Going to have some Luxire oxfords made up and love the Thom collar just when I tried on, I didn't have a measuring tape on me.



Hey man sorry it took me so long.

Here you go I hope this is good enough to help.

Image
  • 2

User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby conhnore » Sun Nov 09, 2014 1:32 am

he is a beautiful man

hairy legs notwithstanding
  • 3

User avatar
conhnore
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:03 am
Location: San Diego
Reputation: 102

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby yoyobeat » Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:10 pm

I haven't handled the stuff, I'm sure it's nice.. but I really don't get the shrunken suiting aesthetic. In my opinion it looks ridiculous and pretty uncomfortable, from the tight fit to the doubtlessly annoying feel of wind against your lower shin and ankles when you walk.

Would anyone who appreciates or likes it care to explain why they do? Is it the idea of Thom Browne that people like, or the actual look, or both? You don't have to prove anything to me of course, but it would be cool to understand. Sorry if this comes off a bit hostile.
  • 4

User avatar
yoyobeat
 
Posts: 433
Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:18 pm
Location: Dogenzaka Hill || Favorite fabric: cotton moleskin
Reputation: 2819

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby bels » Tue Nov 11, 2014 3:36 am

I can think of a couple of things.

- Because it fits so weirdly, it loses some of it's formality, which is appealing to people who don't have lifestyles that call for formality
- The idea of being an iconic insider; to most people you look ridiculous but people in the know know why you look ridiculous
- The ridiculous aesthetic removes normal suit associations of tradition, business etc and wearing it sends a sort of subversive message about these things
  • 3

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4978
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18311

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby ramseames » Tue Nov 11, 2014 3:46 am

who was it that said that wearing TB makes people around them mad?
  • 3

User avatar
ramseames
 
Posts: 2235
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:14 pm
Location: vancouver
Reputation: 6681

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby teck » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:31 am

@yoyobeat

TB has done an outstanding job of latching onto the whole "men's uniform" thing. He caught the perfect wave(this is back in 2007 or so) where men were a) looking to rediscover suiting, b) trying to "redefine" masculinity, c) were germinating the whole #menswear thing. Before him, sure things were getting slimmer, but he really took it to its logical end, and made suiting cool and haute. Before this, there were nice suits, but they weren't high end fashion suits (outside of some weird Chris Tucker-esque alligator one). He made being a square cool.

I think that's what appeals to me. It's simultaneously an homage and a dismissal of the past, it's Paul Auster's NYC, where men drank martinis and read the newspaper in the evening, mixed with a bizarro prep school from Omicron Persei VIII. A lot of Thom's inspirations come from places which we think of as being conservative or establishment: the military, the Amish, the office.

And then of course there's the quality. It's funny but now I think the whole "everything has to be full canvas or I'd just DIE" is kind of wearing thin. TB really led (or led the fashion rediscovery of) high quality mens suitting. He engaged Martin Greenfield for a long time to make his clothing. His clothes, as I said in another post, are extremely luxurious -- if you didn't think an oxford shirt could be luscious and beautiful, try on a TB one. His suitting is actually very comfortable. He does an amazing job of shrinking stuff but making sure there's room where there needs to be. It's actually I think a sign of skill -- great designers can create crazy proportions while not simply just cutting off circulation to the wearer.

TB practically invented the damn ankle thing. All of the stuff that you see now in streetwear, the tight rolls, the cuffed jeans, all that shit came out because some tiny man in nyc made tiny suits. The fact that we even talk about break at all is because of him.
  • 6

User avatar
teck
 
Posts: 537
Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:17 am
Reputation: 1811

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby can- » Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:10 pm

that last statement is a bit strong. people been cuffing their jeans since selvage railroad takeover 2007, and designers like yohji and ann have long been on the tailored highwater thing.

when it comes to proper tailoring thom has absolutely changed the way people look at breaks on suits and trousers.


i really want to buy this shirt for bartending
Image
  • 4

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2983
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11283

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby MxmHrpr » Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:56 pm

Hate to break up the cropped discussion, but just seen this pop up.

Image (From Styleforum)

You know if any of you NY'ers want to cop me some discount stuff in TB2..

Whilst we're here what are the best Thom forums/blogs online? Thom fans seem to be so far and few in most online forums but somehow co-ordinate into an Army.
  • 4

User avatar
MxmHrpr
 
Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:22 pm
Location: England
Reputation: 299

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby timothynguyen » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:27 pm

MxmHrpr wrote:Hate to break up the cropped discussion, but just seen this pop up.

You know if any of you NY'ers want to cop me some discount stuff in TB2..

Whilst we're here what are the best Thom forums/blogs online? Thom fans seem to be so far and few in most online forums but somehow co-ordinate into an Army.



I wonder what the sale is going to be like.
  • 0

User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby timothynguyen » Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:11 pm

MxmHrpr wrote:Hate to break up the cropped discussion, but just seen this pop up.

Spoiler:


You know if any of you NY'ers want to cop me some discount stuff in TB2..

Whilst we're here what are the best Thom forums/blogs online? Thom fans seem to be so far and few in most online forums but somehow co-ordinate into an Army.



Just got an update on this sale:

- 40% off retail prices.
- RSVP by email only
- Not the sample sale.

Hope that helps.
  • 3

Last edited by Syeknom on Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: spoilered repeated image
User avatar
timothynguyen
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 pm
Location: Houston, TX
Reputation: 99

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby germinal » Sun Sep 06, 2015 5:02 am

Edgar Allan Poe wrote:The philosopher's amazement did not prevent a narrow scrutiny of the stranger's dress and appearance. The outlines of his figure, exceedingly lean, but much above the common height, were rendered minutely distinct by means of a faded suit of black cloth which fitted tight to the skin, but was otherwise cut very much in the style of a century ago. These garments had evidently been intended for a much shorter person than their present owner. His ankles and wrists were left naked for several inches. In his shoes, however, a pair of very brilliant buckles gave the lie to the extreme poverty implied by the other portions of his dress. A pair of green spectacles, with side glasses, protected his eyes from the influence of the light, and at the same time prevented our hero from ascertaining either their colour or their conformation.
  • 15

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby MxmHrpr » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:32 pm

Thom FW16 Pre-Fall

Image

Image

Image

More here

Two questions from this?

[*] Who is the model? I've never swooned so hard. EDIT: Chloe Wheatcroft
[*] That second suit fabric, where can I get me some of that neppy sharkskin?
  • 2

User avatar
MxmHrpr
 
Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:22 pm
Location: England
Reputation: 299

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby vgtbls » Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:22 pm

having that dachshund bag and a living dachshund together is extremely morose

i like it!
  • 1

User avatar
vgtbls
 
Posts: 673
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:10 pm
Reputation: 4896

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby midemolet » Wed Jan 06, 2016 5:57 pm

My Dad was in the same graduating class with Thom at Notre Dame, which is funny because wearing TB @ notre dame would get you crucified.
  • 1

User avatar
midemolet
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 10:40 pm
Location: midwest u.s.
Reputation: 19

Re: Thom Browne's School Days

Postby vgtbls » Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:13 pm

Does your dad call him "Good Ol' Thommy B"?

Why or why not?
  • 5

User avatar
vgtbls
 
Posts: 673
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:10 pm
Reputation: 4896

Next

Return to Tags

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest