PEIR :WOOP:

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PEIR :WOOP:

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:26 pm

PEIR WU

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http://peirwu.com/

PEIR WU is a London-based menswear label that focuses on a brave new world of independent, quietly discerning men who appreciate finely crafted clothing.

Envisioning a tribe of men stripped of all superfluous elements, Peir exploits the potential of materials and techniques with a purist/reductionist ethos; her garments are refined and evocative.

Peir graduated with an MA from Central Saint Martins College in 2011. That same year, she went on to establish PEIR WU after presenting her graduate collection at London Fashion Week A/W 11; she now presents at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.


CSM MA Show:

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PEIR WU
Fresh out of Central Saint Martins, the London-based Singaporean designer takes on alien menswear with sculpted shapes and modern textiles

Flora Yin-Wong, Dazed Digital
Based on an alien tribe of men from an imaginary planet, 21-year-old Singaporean designer Peir Wu's new Spring Summer collection for 2012 combines futuristic ideals with classic concepts of knitwear and tailoring. Now based in London, the Central Saint Martins graduate brings together sculptured bodices with modern knitted pieces for a utopian fantasy. Inspired by piano composer Phillip Glass, the new collection is her debut solo venture after working with the likes of Raf Simons in Antwerp. Dazed speak to Wu about her unique use of fabrics and shapes in her new work...

Dazed Digital: Do you have any preferences with materials/fabrics or does it rely on what your concept is?
Peir Wu: It really depends on what excites me at the moment in time. The material just has to feel right. When I start seeing possibilities with it. For my graduation collection I was absolutely obsessed with a rib jersey which had a lot of integrity to its form and structure and developed new unique finishings that are true and sensitive to the nature of the materials used. It's a very intense and intuitive process.

DD: Describe your latest collection?
Peir Wu: I envisioned a tribe of men on another planet not too different from ours, stripped of everything superfluous and much more focused about the way they lived. I reduced menswear into something that was based on the simplest components that I could think of. It was in kind of opposition to this very evolved wardrobe or this so-called formulaic way of designing a collection for men. Through the limitations of a completely pared down collection, I started to work intuitively with a different set of patterns and possibilities: the juxtaposition of a long sweater with subtle curves enhanced by belts worn in combination with carefully considered slits in the bodice.

It was almost a very primordial approach: focusing on the materials alone, very basic graphic shapes, and a very strong mood. I also developed a new textile technique: the rib knit looks as if it's coated with a thick layer of paint at first, but over time with wear, the top layer frays and wears thin or even frays off in chunks to reveal the base layer underneath. The result was a very engineered, emotional, and Utopian collection.

DD: What do you try to keep in mind during your creative process?
Peir Wu: I allow my ideas to grow in a very intuitive manner. It's an action reaction process: experimenting. building up. tearing down. I always keep in mind to stay calm during my creative process, this is very important for me to maintain a high level of intuition with my environment and work and a certain level of detachment allows me to solve problems rationally and creatively. However, I'm highly self-critical with the execution of the final product. It's great to experiment with and develop new techniques and silhouettes, but it's most important that the end result is flawless and effortless, worn and appreciated by a discerning crowd.

DD: Why did you choose menswear?
Peir Wu: I struggled when i had to decide between menswear or womenswear when i was offered a place in saint martins. menswear was a very nebulous path, but because i found it so alien it was exciting, so i went with my gut and took the plunge.

DD: Who are your favourite designers?
Peir Wu: Graziano Visintin, and most of the jewellers from the Padua School. David Watkins for his sustained invention and development in jewellery forms, materials and technologies. Ettore Sottsass - beautiful sketches full of intense colours. Theseus Chan of Werk. He makes such beautiful experimental printed matter: for one of his latest isssues, each cover is hand coloured using various medium like chalk, crayon and graphite. and the magazine was filled with drawings from psychedelic artist Keiichi Tanaami, so raw and surreal. Absolutely loved it.


Spoiler:
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:27 pm

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Present Perfect was approached to design the visual identity of newly established menswear label Peir Wu.

Peir’s clothing combines sculpted shapes and modern textiles, futuristic ideals with classic concepts of knitwear.

One of the main challenge was to avoid prescriptive and standard templates for fashion label identity. The final concept allows an utilitarian, minimal and bold structure while keeping a sense of craftsmanship.

Logotype, garment label, swing tag, promotional visuals.

http://www.presentperfect.co/work/peir-wu

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...

FRESH: PEIR WU

Envisioning a tribe of men, stripped of all superfluous elements. Peir explores the potential of materials and techniques within a reductionist ethos; her garments are refined and evocative.

PRODUCTION HARRY LLOYD AND HAMISH WIRGMAN

GROOMING TORI STEWART

http://thehommeplus.com/2012/11/20/fres ... t-peir-wu/

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:27 pm

AW12/13:

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Lookbook

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http://thepop.com/2012/05/04/pop-904/
Speed and excess; a playboy pair of nouns that sums up the status of today. Governed by a touch-of-a-button culture. We've become hungrier, thirstier and seldom satisfied. Impatience and impermanence govern. Collections are turned out and blasted online. Take-your-pick-please-pre-order. Fatigued before they've even hit the shop floor.

Peir Wu, a Singaporean menswear designer from Central Saint Martins' hallowed MA halls, examines, exploits and overturns this to propose a new ideal man: tight, terse and teutonic: stripped of all superfluous elements and ready to take on menswear. Garms for the thinking man's minimalist, Peir plays on (and off) menswear traditions of tailoring and sportswear via innovative fabrication and tweaked silhouettes.

Clean, crisp and, above all, considered, this is the antidote to haste and excess. Timeless, aspirational menswear for now and beyond, thank you Peir Wu!

Tell me about AW12-13…
AW12-13 was a combination of sportswear and tailoring in a very futuristic and Haute Couture way. The techniques are completely new and unique, I wanted to re-think menswear classics and simplify what I thought was unnecessary; to purify and push in a new direction. Likewise, with every collection I try to challenge convention by combining the unexpected, be it in terms of elements, fabrics and/or techniques.

There are elements of your previous collections in AW12-13 with the ribbing, the muted palette – Peir Wu trademarks – but they have evolved with the introduction of specific sportswear elements and slightly shifted silhouettes. Was this intentional or more of an organic process?
It was a very organic process. The MA collection was a self-indulgent experiment into this futuristic tribe of men I envisioned using stripped-down tailored knitwear. It was a good foundation for the label, a fresh clean slate. Simple, but not simpler.

I've been climbing for the past 7 years and it has shaped a lot of how I work and think. In climbing, it's the line of least resistance, technique, grace and tenacity.

There is no one way to climb a line, you have to be very honest with yourself. It's about focusing on your own abilities and finding your own method. It’s not about pulling your way to the top, but more how beautifully you climb it. That is how I approached building my label. I've had to think more in depth about the intention behind my work: why I do what I do, the bigger picture, and really focusing on how I would do something which is unique, yet effortless and, in a way, no bullshit. So the ideas evolved….

I know fabric development is really integral to your work, can you tell me about the fabrics and techniques you've used for this season?
I was inspired by a power mesh, which is traditionally used for corsetry and I applied my knowledge of tailoring in a kind of new radical way. The surface of this material is strange (in a good way!). It has an incredible "body" to it, like a new super lightweight neoprene. I also continued with the technique I developed for AW11 but applied it in a simpler way on the edges of ribbed sleeves to make it look like the sleeve has been dipped in a liquid crepe!

With the power mesh, there was strong fabric development into finding the right fusion for it. It may look very simple but there was a lot of experimentation into developing the material, and then simplifying the process. It is something that no one else has done so it wasn't easy to find the right people to execute the work for me. It is a very demanding process, but I’m lucky to have just the right amount of support to realise and execute the idea.

I took your MA collection as a purposeful play on (and against) tradtional menswear, how important is the dialogue between tradition and innovation in your work? And is this something you consider with regard to fabric choice?
With building a collection for men there are certain pieces one needs to make, for example: a jacket, a pair of trousers, a shirt, a coat. But it didn't just end with a jacket, say a 3-button jacket with the 3 fabric variations from my collection. I thought if Prada or Thom Browne could do a classic 3-button suit jacket better than anyone else, then there wouldn't be a point in designing one as well. So then what am I bringing that’s new to the market? A new silhouette? My personal vision of what menswear could be?

So for example, one of the main pieces of the AW12 collection is a tailored jacket. I took away the lapels, took away all welt pockets on the front or inside of the jacket – it's a patch pocket on the inside front of the jacket – hidden zip closure instead of a (insert any number here) button closure – an invisible zip back pocket like in a cycle jacket – and ribbed sleeves. It's kind of radical but very simple at the same time, not difficult to wear. I'm not sure if it's the perfect balance between tradition and innovation but I'm just trying out some ideas at the moment, putting it out there and hope it starts a dialogue.

With fabrics, it's either about reviving the mundane (like using ribbed knit for example) or new materials (like power mesh for menswear tailoring), but I'm all about finding new combinations and techniques with the way I work.

Do you think this dialogue between tradition and innovation is indicative of menswear designers in general?
There is definitely a strong focus on new finishing’s, new combinations in womenswear, also a new reductionism, and it will slowly filter through to menswear; the trends are much slower. I think we're all definitely searching for more now. Not just surface embellishment nor a themed version of something. It's no longer just a marginal improvement on what everyone else is offering.

You mentioned the three-button blazer, menswear 'staples', do you find the purported impositions of menswear help or hindrance?
Hmm….I don't really see it as helpful or a hindrance… I think the Central Saint Martins MA was kind of a crucible to emerge out of and be free of all rules and accepted ideas. Of course I don't believe in futuristic menswear just for the sake of it; it's about finding the perfect balance. I recently read an article by Cathy Horyn – her reflection on the recent menswear shows – and she wrote this which I found inspiring:

"What's interesting to me is that a young fashion customer might actually prefer the leaner visual drama of a gentleman who is at heart a murderer. I got that sense from the super-polished black leather in Raf Simons' Jil Sander show. Obviously no old-school gentleman would wear head-to-toe leather, but that's my point: What if there's a new class of gentlemen out there? It's up to designers to imagine how such a person might interpret things like impeccable tailoring and good taste. You don't have to stay in the same Savile Row rut or, for that matter, in the costume shop at Pinewood Studios."

Re: Impositions of menswear. Is it something to rally against? Or to consider, ingest, reference and alter?
Food for thought: "less waste, more taste".

Your Biography mentions an intention to get rid of "all superfluous elements…within a reductionist ethos" and your work has always possessed a quiet, considered minimalism. What appeals to you about reductionism?
Eliminating all that noise, it gives me space to breathe, think and focus.

Who is inspiring you at the moment?
Yvon Chouinard, the owner and founder of Patagonia. I recently read a book of his entitled "Let My People Go Surfing, The Education of a Reluctant Businessman". It's just an autobiography about his upbringing, how he found a passion for climbing and blacksmithing, set up a business based on a very simple idea (making and designing better pitons and carabiners), surrounded himself with like-minded others and built it up with authenticity. It's a beautiful book, so personal and unique; a story of the success of a social misfit!

The MAN day schedule for June has recently been announced, peppered with big names and cocktail parties, what is the reality for a young menswear designer in London?
Of course it's a lot of hard work and so much to learn as we go along. My mind is constantly searching for new possibilities, finding new solutions, and then figuring out ways to execute the ideas. London is a great place to start your own label, so much support for small businesses, there're so many small production units around, freelancers to engage, I also have very close friends from my Saint Martins days and we work hard and support each other's works so I'm happy here.

I'm not sure what I think of fashion week or maybe rather, the hype and sensation that surround fashion. I find it's a different world and very confusing, personally it's a bit much. You know there are lots of designers who are removed from that who are doing great things because they're focused on their craft. It's just at your own pace, at your own time, and what feels more natural. But I’m a severe introvert and that's just my take on it.

And finally, what's next for Peir Wu. Any SS13 hints?
Colours! It's more relaxed and fresh. This time I have some amazing people on board, we're working on some new ideas, experimenting, taking risks. We're excited about it, but have to work super hard now, not long left until fashion week!


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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:27 pm

SS13:

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Behind the scenes

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:27 pm

AW13/14 "PARAGRAPH":

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AW 13/14 Collection by Peir Wu

http://thisispaper.com/Peir-Wu-AW-13-14-Collection

(with seriously great women's pics i hadn't seen before until today when sisterray linked it)

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"Gender and Sexuality, Convention and Classicism, a loaded gun of buzz words that dictate and define the dialogues of fashion and dressing. We're battered daily with redundant ideas of "masculine" and "feminine", "day" and "evening", "smart" and "casual" when in reality boundaries are blurring, collapsing, merging and mutating. Timely and transcendent, Singaporean menswear designer Peir Wu brings the solution.

Her third season proper post Central Saint Martins MA, Autumn/Winter 2013-14 expands upon Peir's established vocabulary of Eastern quietude. Having honed her skills under modernist maestro Raf Simons and forever inspired by what is taken for granted or considered 'classic', Peir proposes a fresh, futuristic take on Nineties minimalism. Think Hermes under Margiela's tenure, think Helmut Lang pitched into a new century, think a new world of independent, intuitive dressing.

Staple menswear shapes - the three button blazer, the bomber, the full length overcoat - are simultaneously respected, reinterpreted and refined whilst artisanal laser cut rib knits underline an evocative, emotional undercurrent. A purist pursuit of progress, AW13-14 is worn by both Melinda and Rob. No cuts, no tweaks, no alterations. This is how it should be; Above and beyond."

Photography: Edith Bergfors
Fashion and Words: Luke Raymond
Make-Up: Claire Louise Mazik using YSL
Hair: Yumi Nakada Dingle using Aveda


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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby bels » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:43 pm

this thread gonna be good.

Whenever I see a new label get talked about I think "Maybe I should start only wearing this label"
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby Syeknom » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:48 pm

Oh wow, this is super cool

Reductionist approach to clothing details and obsession with fabric design gets me all hot and bothered
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby can- » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:52 pm

pic on the right is soooo lovely
http://peirwu.com/images/AW12%3A13_Camp ... AW13-1.jpg

dork chic
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby Syeknom » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:07 pm

AW 13/14 my favourite by far

This coat! That cardigan!
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:07 pm

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:17 pm

can be bought at Suspension Point, plus there are a few heavily discounted pieces on Hostem (via Farfetch) which i definitely recommend, i own the trousers and the top in black (actually i'm thinking of buying the blue one too...)

more pics

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some of the SS13 lookbook. i have a pdf with all the looks that i'll try and upload at some point

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Suspension Point illustrations

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more of her graduation collection

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Ivwri from styleforum wearing a cardi with yohji presumably

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby SisterRayVU » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:51 pm

Argh the vertical ribbing or whatever on those sweaters and arms is so beautiful. Tyft, just really, really good stuff all around. Kinda wanna stop saving money and spend it all on her. It's pretty cool that she only does menswear.
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Jul 15, 2013 7:22 pm

yeah this is where i see most of my clothing budget going for the foreseeable future

will try and keep this updated with any new images or articles that crop up, probably won't be any for a while though

i'll take pics of my stuff when i'm back in london
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby Syeknom » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:19 am

Do want to see them!

WAYWT picture by user Platypus (is he the owner of Suspension Point?) from superfuture. Pier Wu jacket:

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Styleforum, snowmanxl, couple of PW items:

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And here

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Styleforum, user 1969

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:34 am

yes platypus owns suspension point, super nice guy. i have that jacket too

the one and only fuuma in a pw bomber:

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:28 am

some of these are reposts but who cares

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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby can- » Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:16 am

need pix of her brand and care tags
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby Syeknom » Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:19 am

We need a thread for that, was thinking to start one

Seems right given the forum's name
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Wed Jul 24, 2013 11:02 am

cameron- wrote:need pix of her brand and care tags


her brand tags are upthread, cool three layer design - ultra-thick cardstock sandwiching a thin, translucent bit of paper that sticks out a little bit

i will take some of the care tags when i have a camera
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:20 pm

bump

have exchanged some emails with peir, she's really down-to-earth
things we have talked about:

london buses
Louise Bourgeois
"used future"
Isamu Noguchi
shanghai
interior design/"tailored space[s]"
Eileen Gray
Light and Space
visiting her studio
and the prospect of an online shop!

shall get some more pics in here when i have time
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby sknss » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:29 pm

damn great themes.

what is used future?
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:38 pm

Used Future is a trope in sci-fi, mostly films, where the world depicted isn't all gleaming and new (like in Gattaca or Star Trek), but run-down and, well, used, whilst still being all high-tech and futuristic. Think Blade Runner and Star Wars and Alien. Makes more sense seeing as we live in a used present.
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby bels » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:30 pm

just shooting the shit with peir wu w/e.

????

Did you tell her we have a thread about her
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:34 pm

yeah i linked her
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby can- » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:49 pm

my future fantasy is pretty similar to a 'used' future I think. a world where everyone has a pip boy and phasers set to stun but still wearing dads old jordans and super faded clothes etc. futuristic but still very much in the middle of modern scarcity.

this fantasy combines all three of my favorite things-- 90s baggy streetwear, my dads old clothes and modern but military styled techwear.

germz when is your laser knit coming in?
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:01 am

apparently it's en route

hmm there's a styleforum thread now http://www.styleforum.net/t/359011/peir-wu/0_40
compare & contrast
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby Syeknom » Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:32 am

This thread is cooler and ahead of the curve.

Nice for Peir to get more attention though.
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:52 pm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louise_Bourgeois

Louise Bourgeois

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A new one to me - anyone here a fan of her work? Peir specifically recommended the documentary Louise Bourgeois: The Spider, the Mistress, and the Tangerine - i can't seem to find a download so i might buy the DVD and try to upload it to dropbox or something

Peir Wu wrote:there was a bit in the film where she says she knows
and understands the work of pop artists like Andy Warhol / Lichtenstein
etc...but it does nothing for her as it doesn't convey an emotion, it's
stylised and becomes dated. whereaes her work has a transcendence and
timelessness to it, alien and calm at the same time.


PW is interested in "timelessness" - not in the j.crew "when men were Men" sense but in the sense that something can exist without an understandable temporal coordinate, and cannot be placed in a recognisable timeline. This is not to say it is "futuristic" per se - it can look ancient - but that it exists in its own space. This plays into the used future thing.
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby sknss » Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:23 pm

went to see an exhibition about her in like 2008 and it was very intense.

her marble sclupture Cumul I has stuck with me
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the stone is very shiny so it looks like the heads(?) are moving. some see phallic forms, some see nuns under white veils. i think she said they were rather clouds. it looks completely alien indeed, just like the giant spider Maman. the classic themes (sexuality, metamorphosis) coupled with ancient materials (marble and bronze) contrast strongly with her modern ideas... that may be why her work is so hard to place in time

i'd like to hear smiles about this
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Re: PEIR WU thread

Postby germinal » Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:08 am

The new season Suspension Point buy is pretty nice, i bought a pair of trousers and could have been talked into buying another pair and a couple of coats and a scarf and a top. It's not online yet and i'm not allowed to post pics but it's good stuff.
Anyway that'll be on it's way soon along with my jumper (at long last) and a free shirt thing to make up for the jumper taking so long lol
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