Visvim

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Visvim

Postby hirokinakamura » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:24 pm

This is the official care-tags Visvim thread, for all your F.I.L. needs and desires.

More than a single style, visvim embodies a singleminded methodology.

Since its foundation in 2000 by designer Hiroki Nakamura, visvim has been an ongoing exercise in the pursuit of joy and timeless beauty through the discovery and creation of footwear and clothing products.
This pursuit has manifested itself in different forms - Gore-Tex outerwear, natural indigo-dyed kimonos, Native American-inspired sneakers - but the driving force behind each product has stayed the same.
Along this journey it has often been necessary to look back in order to progress forward, which just might be the truest way to articulate the visvim concept.

visvim is a journey to find happiness through creation, and the products and collections that are born each season are our most honest attempts at reaching towards that goal.


Most of that is a crock of marketing bullshit but it speaks to something at the heart of Visvim, this sort of interesting interplay of japanese attention to detail, american heritage flintstone, and modern manufacturing processes and textiles. There are other similar japanese brands (nanamica, for example) but imo no one does it as well as hiroki does it.

Hiroki is our wizard and our saviour.
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Bow before his greatness
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby hirokinakamura » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:28 pm

Prices r too low hiroki-sama

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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:29 pm



i could listen to hiroki say "corduroy" all day
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby ramdomthought » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:50 pm

what makes visvim so interesting to so many people? i love the stuff but it's always boggled me how it has gotten picked up by the certain segment of hypebeasts.

what's the appeal to the non-americana-inspired fan

what makes the shoes special

potential for a great thread thanks zach (smiling)
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby harmsalmon » Fri Jan 30, 2015 2:14 am

am I correct in often thinking of visvim as a slightly more wearable version of kapital
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Yoder » Fri Jan 30, 2015 2:43 am

Does that make kapital a much cooler version of visvim?
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Yoder » Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:03 pm

Something being more/less wearable doesn't have anything to do with the coolness, I was merely expounding on the presumed relationship between the brand, but I appreciate the salt.

OT, are there comparative reviews of visvim out there to make the prices more relative? What brands fill a similar niche or fit in with the visvim image? Do people like John Mayer that wear the brand exclusively do so because of how cohesive it is, or are there other factors? Is vis a status symbol as hinted at in some rep comments here?
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby starfox64 » Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:12 pm

ramdomthought wrote:what makes visvim so interesting to so many people? i love the stuff but it's always boggled me how it has gotten picked up by the certain segment of hypebeasts.


the interesting thing for me is that people pick it up and then literally only wear visvim. i think i've mentioned this before, but are there other brands at this price point that have this kind of following?

i get the appeal of fbts, boots, some of the outerwear, and the albacore oxfords with the detailing, but buying $400 chinos and $500 jeans and stuff is nuts to me. especially given that those are japanese prices, and that prices in the usa and stuff are 1.5x higher.

oh damn they released hilts boots for men this season, i liked those a lot (though they're basically just more expensive viberg service boots).
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Chimpskibot » Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:17 pm

I'm in it love visvim
Currently beating the hell out of my yucca moc mid boots, and Lhamos.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby kyung » Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:02 pm

starfox64 wrote:
the interesting thing for me is that people pick it up and then literally only wear visvim. i think i've mentioned this before, but are there other brands at this price point that have this kind of following?

i get the appeal of fbts, boots, some of the outerwear, and the albacore oxfords with the detailing, but buying $400 chinos and $500 jeans and stuff is nuts to me. especially given that those are japanese prices, and that prices in the usa and stuff are 1.5x higher.



i might be off base here but i think because for the most part vis really shines when worn with more vis? like i feel like hiroki cut these highwaters with the virgils in mind

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i think people buy certain "statement" pieces to wear just for the sake of it being visvim but more often than not it ends up falling flat (i'm thinking tommy ton in that dumb ass noragi)

but then again i would imagine vis meshing wonderfully with soloist etc. so idk ┐(´-`)┌
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby bels » Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:35 pm

Feel like whenever I see someone wearing all visvim it's a really unvisvim looking outfit.

Like elmendorf albacore chinos virgils which is a minor variation on a look that infinite brands put out at infinite price points.

Is wizwim as big in Japan I wonder? I know there are plenty of euro/na brands that get big play in Japan.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Chimpskibot » Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:03 pm

bela wrote:Feel like whenever I see someone wearing all visvim it's a really unvisvim looking outfit.

Like elmendorf albacore chinos virgils which is a minor variation on a look that infinite brands put out at infinite price points.

Is wizwim as big in Japan I wonder? I know there are plenty of euro/na brands that get big play in Japan.
Visvim is fairly big in Japan, but more in HK and taiwan. Visvim has definately changed and became more americana over the seasons, and when newer visvim is paired with older seasons it can look awkward.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:43 pm

bela wrote: Like elmendorf albacore chinos virgils which is a minor variation on a look that infinite brands put out at infinite price points.


is that a visvim thing or an americana thing, though

americana is pretty limited to begin with, because all the clothes have such a heritage (A2s, type 2 denim jackets, brown plain-toe boots) that it's hard to put a stylistic spin on it

i agree that visvim is stylistically limited at times, but at its best vis stuff is a pretty solid marriage of americana/"folkwear" and a japanese sensibility. it's a really awkward analogy but visvim's best stuff feels to me like what the characters in a Miyazaki animated remake of True Grit or The Searchers would wear

this is cool
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Last edited by CheerUpBrokeBoy on Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby schiaparelli » Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:06 pm

i'm very excited for this thread, thanks @hirokinakamura for kicking it off!

for a long time i wasn't too interested in japanese americana—tbh it often feels a bit too insular, the same ideas being recycled again and again—but i've been seeing some interesting editorials and outfits that have put visvim in a new light. i also frequently come back to these images from their first womenswear collection bc i feel they articulate a look that feels rare in womenswear: this charming/innocent/prairie homestead/mori girl/wholesome look that feels very easy and delicate without being precious.

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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby kyung » Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:34 pm

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that time vis made a goretex car cover
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby ramseames » Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:01 pm

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/37400394[/vimeo]

(for some reason this link plays it twice lol)
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby nick » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:11 pm

There's an intangible "cool" factor in editorials of visvim I've seen where it all comes together in such a great way. I wonder what it is - what is the "it" factor that makes it a brand people completely buy into? Is there an appeal in the world of visvim? It about the clothes? The accessibility mixed with exclusivity? This goes back to ramdom and starfox's question. With say, EG, sure you can buy an OCBD, chinos, and a blazer, but the look is distinctive and is an immediate signifier. Would you say the same for Visvim?

Their footwear is excellent though. Looking for "visvim alternatives" in that department is just selling yourself short if the visvim look is exactly what you want. Love the denim washes too.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Lorcan » Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:01 pm

I think a big part of Visvim's appeal is the fabrics. Its the denim designed 'from the yarn up' or the custom herringbone intended to give more pronounced diagonals and texture. The natural dyes (natural indigo, mud dye, persimmon, etc.) and the washes. I only have one Vis piece (kerchief tunic shirt in light indigo linen) and the fabric is crazy on that (irregular texture, small variations in colour from the dyeing and washing). It helped me understand how dudes get hooked on the stuff.

Visvim also puts in a lot of effort to all the peripheral stuff to try and make it feel special: the packaging, naming pieces after movie characters / artists, the F.I.L. store design, Hiroki himself as walking advertisement for the brand - it all adds to the hype and appeal I guess. Though personally I find a lot of it a turn-off (calling the collections "dissertations" always seemed both kind of corny and a bit pretentious to me). I think there's still a lot to like if you can get past all the trappings and celebrity hype, and there's a bunch of pieces I'd love to own (Hendee trenchcoat, artifact coverall, Sanjuro kimono, whymper and brigadier boots).
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby ramseames » Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:20 pm

Is there that much celebrity Hype though?

Like celebrities who wear vis on the reg/are known for it are Kanye, who just wears fbts and a noragi or lhamo that one time, Eric Clapton, who is cool but not in the same way, and mayer, who's fan base is totally unaware of this other than thinking that he dresses weird now.

Maybe there's others I'm forgetting but I don't feel like this is what drives the brands growth at all.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby can- » Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:23 pm

visvim be the sneaker
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Lorcan » Sat Jan 31, 2015 7:56 pm

@ramseamses

I'm pretty sure A$ap Rocky, Pharrell, Rihanna, probably more I forget have all been pictured wearing it at some time.

I think the point which I didn't really articulate, is that you can't escape the celebrity connection with Visvim whether you like it or not. Mayer is mentioned or pictures of him posted pretty regularly throughout the Visvim threads on Sufu. Or for example, if you go on Visvim's own website, on the page on Social Sculpture denim there's a long quote from Clapton. I think they put a pair of his jeans on display at one of the FIL stores recently too.

I don't think the celebrity endorsement necessarily pushes sales in a direct manner, like someone buys something because X person wore that specific item or whatever, but I think it helps contribute to this aura that its supposed to be some special / desirable shit in a more general way.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby ramseames » Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:20 pm

ramseames wrote: and mayer, who's fan base is totally unaware of this other than thinking that he dresses weird now.


@cheerupbrokeboy @thatbiglake I didn't forget him yo.

idk i just don't see it.

the people who see rocky or kanye in it and rush out to buy a pair of fun boys arent the people with elmendorfs and bickles and loose denim and shit (the internet people), nor are they the demo that the brand makes a living off of (mainland chinese with unlimited budget)

i think the brand does a lot to differentiate itself from those around it and in that sense you'll never see all nonnative all the time guy in the same way. I think you're absolutely right that they make it feel special, and if you're a westerner with limited access to it in real life it makes it that much more exciting.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:55 am

i have a hypothesis that brands with charismatic media-friendly lead designers/founders have a much more loyal fanbase than brands that don't - e.g. Hiroki, Rick, Errolson Hugh, Jun, Tom Ford (though his clothes aren't different/"groundbreaking"), Karl Lagerfeld (even though he's an ass and he dresses like a vampire). Bonus points if the designer only wears his(/her) brand's clothes, like Hiroki does. so that might be part of it

side note: i went into Maas and Stacks in SF a little while ago, and they stock Ervell/Nonnative/CP/Rafdidas in the front and Visvim/Hender Scheme in an ENTIRELY different room in the back. like a tiny room just for those two brands (which they don't stock online). the SAs were clearly Vis fanboys and they explained that it was amazing clothing because of the "story behind it". pretty pretentious, but smart on Hiroki's part: flipping heritage clothing into a narrative that attracts a cult following based on the *idea* of the clothes
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Sun Feb 01, 2015 3:16 pm

upon reflection and going back to their website, I retract any inflammatory statements regarding the fine people at Maas & Stacks

@deadkitty pls hook me up with a job there
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby hirokinakamura » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:58 pm

Maas n stacks is dope

As for the whole cult of visvim thing, it's pretty ambiguous. The hypebeast part that ramdom mentioned is almost entirely due to vis' celebrity following. You look at hypebeast forum or KTT shit on visvim and its a bunch of dudes talking about how dope the shoes Kanye wore are or how john mayer is swagging out in vis fucking half of the eligible pussy in hollywood. But i think what's far more interesting is the other point everyone was raising, how visvim manages a cult following at its price level. I mean, this is not remotely cheap and you look at dudes on fuk and they're just wearing head2toe vis. For those of us that are not stupid wealthy FOB chinese dudes, an outfit like the one bela mentions "elmendorf albacore chinos virgils" is going to run you somewhere around $5000 at retail. That's not chump change. Yet there are plenty of ppl that post fit pics like that, sometimes wearing even more expensive shit. I've seen dudes wearing like, fucking gore-tex Valdez with grizzly boots. It's easier, I think, to conceptualise how people spend $1k on a pair of rick sneakers or A1923 boots or something, than it is to do the same with visvim.

Vis is, at its heart, just another japanese take on americana. Certainly hiroki has distinguished the brand from all others but still, there's a reason visvim has boots named after steven mcqueen's character in the Great Escape (virgils AND hilts) and deniro's in Taxi Driver (bickle m-65) and robert duvall in apocalypse now (kilgore jacket) and honus wagner (honus cap lmao) and all the obvious native american shit going on (seminole this, cochise that, blah blah blah) and so on and so forth. It's all about classic America. Visvim just seems to possess this sort of je nes sais quoi that creates the kind of following that you'll never remotely find with any similar brand (as ramseames put it, you dont ever seen anyone in head2toe nonnative). Can't put my finger on what exactly it is. It could be the whole charismatic designer thing, it could be the way vis tries to make everything feel special, it could be the exclusivity/limited availability/price-level/lack of substitutes, or it could be some other intangible shit. The only thing I know for sure is that I fucking love visvim.

Also as a sidenote, the other day I got to meet/chill with the Hitoshi Tsujimoto, the guy who owns the Real McCoys (and a whole bunch of other brands under the NYLON Co. umbrella) and the dude loves visvim. He was wearing this amazing vintage orange cashmere Hermes duffel coat with washed denim and grizzlys and he looked fucking awesome. Classic old-school Japanese guy, drinks and smokes like fucking Sinatra and talks about all the girls he used to fuck lmao.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby can- » Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:28 am

what about all the visvim that isnt really americana? this is mostly the stuff with a serious technical bent like their bag ranges, christos, and some of their more aggressive shells.


i think a big reason visvim has the appeal it does versus other brands making garms that are just as "alive" like 45rpm, kapital and LVC is because visvim clothes are generally still quite on trend with styling and fit etc.
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby kyung » Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:40 pm

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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby starfox64 » Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:56 pm

cameron- wrote:what about all the visvim that isnt really americana? this is mostly the stuff with a serious technical bent like their bag ranges, christos, and some of their more aggressive shells.


are they still making this stuff other than the bags? i don't know that i've seen bickles and nomads from recent seasons
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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby Vaeltaja » Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:37 pm

Fan of how Appleseed throws Visvim with other brands. He seems to be more of a fan of the techwear aspect of Visvim than the Americana side.

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Re: Dissertation on the Extremely Overpriced American Experi

Postby ramseames » Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:16 pm

http://www.thirdlooks.com/2015/02/visvi ... n-preview/

Serras are back(!)

Either the thirdlooks guy doesn't know of foleys or there's a new ~minimal~ sneaker silhouette
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