OCBD

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OCBD

Postby can- » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:23 pm

OCBD thread !

OCBD are the best shirts you can wear.

they are sturdy, sporty button front-shirts.

you can get them in white or blue and they go with everything.



Who makes the best OCBD?
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Re: OCBD

Postby can- » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:59 pm

RRL-


RRL Oxfords are very casual, very fine, and very Ivy. They are cut in relaxed fit in the body and arms, with a medium/large scallop and a much longer tail. The sleeves are fully gusseted from arms to cuff. 3 quick pleats in the cuff in the sandwiched Brooks Bros style (basically on top of each other). The collar is small with a very sharp roll and a back button-- impossible to wear a tie with this shirt. The front is also too small to tuck. The long tail is super sporty and looks great coming out of a sweatshirt or sweater. most of the classic bells and whistles are present: split yoke, locker loop & box pleat, chest pocket, gauntlet button.

the fabric is a medium/light weight oxford cloth in a weave open such that the white threads get a lot of visual play on the face of the fabric giving them a sunburnt, gentle pastel look. Up until 2013 the shirts were made of japanese selvage oxford, sometime in 2014 they got rid of the selvage (found on inside of placket and hem 'gussets') but I think it's still MIJ. I think the fabric might be really gently combed. Buttons are very thin shell buttons. It has a feeling that is slightly worn or washed with pretty low crunch in the fabric.

this is a refined and austere but casual OCBD. I imagine some guy who goes to work in Brooks Bro's and changes into RRL shirts for the weekend-- still quite traditional in fit and features, but really relaxed and casual. They have a tent shape that is great for lazing around a beach or living room. There is a softness in the details, like the small collar, placket and cuffs. it's kind've like a fancy pajama OCBD.

this shirt also looks good worn like an AA top, aka oversized in the back and over skinny bottoms.
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Re: OCBD

Postby mahi-mahi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:25 am

have you been to the Polo store in NYC? Supposedly it's huge.
I love OCBD's. I really do like Gap- they have a good roll, weight, and color selection. After a while, mine kinda got messed up- loose threads, buttons popping off, etc. Cannot tuck it In for anything, although OCBD's are a casual shirt, no? I have like 5 and everytime I see a Gap, I have to pop in and see. Last time I went, I saw a White OC shirt- no pocket or collar holes :/ to me, that IS an OCBD, plus, who would turn down a nifty pocket?
Have handled Supreme shirts, as a matter of fact my first piece was the Floral button down this last season- really good feel, lovely pattern and I feel really good whilst wearing it- it's my "fun shirt" I like wearing it with wool pants and khakis.
J. Crew OCBD's are ok.
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Re: OCBD

Postby IsaiahSchafer » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:33 am

Uniqlo-

An OCBD for the common working man. If you're blue collar, get one of these to match. May not be pricy or high quality materials but it has everything else, you name it! Seams, collar, openings for your arms, hems, fabric content on the tag, etc!

The shape is best described as torso-esque. If you have a larger chest, the fit on this will be best if you read the size chart, probably. Length-wise with the way it ends at approximately a few inches below the waistline of pants is fairly typical.

There is a certain element to the heritage of the brand that speaks in the way the OCBD. Best worn with pants and shoes for service. Uniqlo- for when you spent all your money on cool shoes.
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Re: OCBD

Postby meatjacket » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:51 am

gitman - perfect fit for me imo, very slim, ends just below the belt, sleeves are just a tad short which is very cool imo.

absolutely lovely collar roll and well known for their wacky prints/fabrics. Very easy to find under $100 on grailed/ (usually even <$50 on rak)/ market

Lately i've been wearing them a lot more since my hair is long but i remember with my buzzed hair i loved it even more (prob bc Mr. Gitman/ Chris Olberding himself is buzzed). It seems to bring a lot more attention to the shirt

I think the only thing i dont like about the gitman shirts is that i dont have enough. Would definitely keep buying from here on out.
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Re: OCBD

Postby mahi-mahi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:53 am

Has anyone tried wolf vs goat OCBD's?
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Re: OCBD

Postby mahi-mahi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:53 am

Muji OCBD's are prolly my ideal fit nowadays, they converted me (smiling)
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Re: OCBD

Postby needlethatsings » Sat Mar 28, 2015 1:22 am

Gap - the unsung hero of budget OCBDs. Great fit, I'd say they're slim enough and fairly straight through the body. Not quite as fitted as, say, Uniqlo's OCBDs are. Length is somewhat short so they're great for casual wear. Lots of nice details like the locker loop and back button on the collar. Collar roll is mediocre but really isn't any worse that Uniqlo's. Fabric is nice and substantial, good weave on the cotton, and it's comfortable and soft due to whatever wash Gap puts them through. . As always w/ Gap they're definitely overpriced so wait for those 40% off promotions to run!
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Re: OCBD

Postby bels » Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:20 am

Swear to fucking god this was one of the first threads on Care Tags ever but I can't find it.
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Re: OCBD

Postby sknss » Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:04 am

My favourite ocbd is from THE OCBD PROJECT
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Re: OCBD

Postby can- » Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:46 am

Thom Browne

TB shirts, in stark distinction to his tailoring, are BIG. Thom shirts are larger than life. Basically all features of a TB shirt are cartoonishly oversized. Collars, cuffs, and tails are all huge. There is only one thing about the shirt that is shrunken, which is the severe waist suppression-- the shirts are more tailored through the gut than anything I've ever encountered off the rack. The dimensions of these shirts beg to be worn with a shrunken sack suit, or with the cuffs and collar flippantly and lazily cuffed.

The fabrics tend to be larger than life, thick oxfords with an even, regular weave and a ton of crunch. Thom is a traditionalist and it shows, with all the trad details down-- split yoke, locker loop, thick shell buttons, and single stitch tailoring. His oxfords tend to be in classic colors like white, light blue, and grey uni stripe. The scallop is moderate with a very round front hem. These are long enough to tuck but look good untucked too.

Thom shirts are similar to BB shirts, they are very versatile and signify different things in different contexts. This is a pretty flashy shirt worn casually, even without the grosgrain trim which has been showing up less and less on Thom's classic OCBD's. These shirts also easily accommodate a suit, blazer or tie, showing a ton of cuff and collar.
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Re: OCBD

Postby mike868y » Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:50 am

i'm the type to wear an ocbd 5 days a week. for this type of wear, you can't beat 'qlo slim fits, imo. no big deal if you stain them, plenty of colors, and some recent patterned options as well (sup polka dots).
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Re: OCBD

Postby IsaiahSchafer » Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:59 pm


how often does ben wear ocbds? a biopic.
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Re: OCBD

Postby agvs » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:12 am

mahi-mahi wrote:Has anyone tried wolf vs goat OCBD's?


I have an overdye one from last year. I didn't mention it here because most of their stuff is a one off production run so you won't see the same fabric or fit again. All that being said it's one of my favorite shirts. The fabric is nice and thick but also soft and is wearing down well. It stacks and crinkles nicely in the arms. The collar is a good size with a nice roll. There is no locker loop nor a back pleat. The run of overdye shirts I bought from was notoriously huge. I sized down and like the fit. Boxy through the body but not too long. Mauro has since come out with another batch of OCBDs that are completely different (fit TTS). Different fabric, different fit. I think he has plans for more overdyes but they'll probably be different from the one I have. So from a fabric/construction perspective you can't really go wrong with WvG but each new run of shirts is a an adventure in sizing.
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Re: OCBD

Postby mahi-mahi » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:29 pm

Bumping this thread

Are OCBD's an "any man" kinda deal or do you have to have a specific look?
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Re: OCBD

Postby Yoder » Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:23 pm

depends on if you're american or not I do believe, but i would say that they are about as everyman as shirting gets
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Re: OCBD

Postby mc-lunar » Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:28 am

if you live in england don't wear one with a tie or heckawheel will get mad at you
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Re: OCBD

Postby starfox64 » Mon Nov 14, 2016 5:34 pm

does gap still make decent ocbds? muji's are too baggy this season and uniqlo fucked theirs up a few years ago and still haven't brought the good ones back (at least in america, no idea how it is elsewhere)
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Re: OCBD

Postby bels » Mon Nov 14, 2016 5:47 pm

Can't you just get some hitman vintage? They seem to go for fuck all at resale now.

Favourite ocbd is a wings and horns one that I should sell but can't be bothered to.
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Re: OCBD

Postby starfox64 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:59 am

even second hand gbv is more exp than i really want to be spending but maybe i should look into it more

just looked and gap doesnt have locker loop/box pleat. rip.

quest continues
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Re: OCBD

Postby starfox64 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:09 pm

look at this bullshit:

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Re: OCBD

Postby Julio » Wed Nov 16, 2016 7:10 am

^huh. i've never seen the second ocbd at local uniqlos. i guess asia uniqlos get them better??? all my encounters with qlo ocbd have box pleat and locker loop if memory serves me correctly. i am at least certain of box pleat (will double check mine for loop sooner or later).
fabric was good and beefy for the price ALTHO as of the past two years or so it seems their oxfords have gotten a lot lighter in weight, and thus i haven't bought any since they're just not up to snuff with the older ones
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Re: OCBD

Postby pirxthepilot » Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:49 am

i remember back in the day when brands like band of outsiders were still going, i used to have box pleats on uniqlo ocbds sewn down to make the fit more streamlined. never actually wore them though (ocbds are basically just for nicebois).
uniqlo has been steadily declining in quality year after year, tried to re-up on some of those marled socks they used to do and the new ones feel horrible and plasticky
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Re: OCBD

Postby MxmHrpr » Thu Nov 17, 2016 5:02 pm

New Lean OCBD's are up, that sweet €50 price point for RTW shirt with nice deets like actual collar roll & MOP buttons: https://leangarments.com/

Shame they don't fit me or it'd be all I wore (when they resell the white cloth of course).
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Re: OCBD

Postby can- » Mon Nov 28, 2016 10:43 am

anyone try any of the new BB oxfords with the original unlined & unfused collar?

is it safe to say gitman is still the best quality/value in the game?
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Re: OCBD

Postby meatjacket » Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:45 am

consensus on TOJ ocbds? ive got my eye on one for sale
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Re: OCBD

Postby BIGBEE » Sat Jul 08, 2017 9:13 pm

how are the ll bean ocbds? is the wrinkle resistance annoying?
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Re: OCBD

Postby can- » Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:30 am

they're still all cotton so i assume they'll be fine after some wash.
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Re: OCBD

Postby starfox64 » Fri Aug 04, 2017 4:40 pm

can- wrote:is it safe to say gitman is still the best quality/value in the game?


how could this be true if their shirts sell for $150?
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Re: OCBD

Postby popcorn » Sat Aug 05, 2017 12:34 am

Everyone knows the quality/price graph flatlines out like a sqrt function after a point somewhere between $20-30. If Uniqlo fits you well, you're gonna have to put down a bit of cheddar before finding the next significant interval in overall quality.
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