Japanese designers

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Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:35 pm

Howdy. I'm super into Japanese clothes and style, like everyone else on the internet is. So let's have a thread dedicated to all the smaller brands that haven't gotten widespread (read: visvim tier) recognition outside of internet clothes-nerd territory. I don't know much about lady's gear but I've been collecting names of brands to search on Y!J for a while and I'm going to share them with you. Please share your fave brands and cool duds that strike your fancy!
I'm gonna avoid listing the super obvious brands like Nonnative, White Mountaineering, etc becuz even tho I love them, I wanna get some recognition for the less-popular labels. it's hard to find good pictures of all the brands and their clothing so bear with me.

EDIT 9/17/15: spoilering some of the picture-heavy posts. If you want some details on these brands scroll down a lil bit. More detailed posts on individual brands and magazine dumps beginning on the second page!

Facetasm, Minotaur, Naissance, Rottweiler, Unused, Isness, HARD HIT, 02Deriv, Gomme Homme, Filmelange
Spoiler:
facetasm
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minotaur
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naissance
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rottweiler
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unused
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isness
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hard hit
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02DERIV
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gomme homme
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filmelange
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:45 pm

Factotum, Mr. Olive, Phigvel, Ones Stroke, Niuhans
Spoiler:
factotum
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MR. OLIVE
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phigvel
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ones stroke
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niuhans
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:55 pm

Hurray Hurray, FOB Factory, Bukht, Universal Product, Made In Standard, Digawel
Spoiler:
HURRAY HURRAY
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FOB Factory (Free On Board)
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bukht
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Universal Product
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Made in Standard
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digawel
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:06 pm

Nitraid, Monkey TIme, Cootie, Efilevol, Waste (twice), Bru Na Boinne
Spoiler:
NITRAID
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Monkey Time
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Cootie
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efilevol
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Waste (Twice)
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bru na boinne
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:17 pm

Whereabouts, Rip Van Winkle, Seminead, Stof, The Letters
Spoiler:
Whereabouts
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Rip Van Winkle
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seminead
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STOF (SMF)
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The Letters
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:23 pm

Still By Hand, Lantiki Crown, Saltwater Cowboy, Curly, Superior Labor
Spoiler:
Still By Hand
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lantiki crown
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Saltwater Cowboy (by Sunny Sports)
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CURLY
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Superior Labor
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:35 pm

Yoyobeat:
this is excellent idea, hopefully we can all collectively build some of these out

Yeah, that's the idea. I figured people would rather see at least one picture rather than a huge list of words with varying capitalization
I highly recommend diving in and posting lookbooks or big selections of pictures for singular brands. I gotta cover a lotta terrain tho

Voo, A. Vontade, Mean, Vote Make New Clothes, Hold Fast
Spoiler:
VOO
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A Vontade
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MEAN
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Vote Make New Clothes
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Hold Fast (made in england tho?)
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby nevergreen » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:41 pm

how's the quality with monkey time? lots of cheap pretty cool looking shit on rak

to contribute to the thread n hoolywood is one of my fav brands
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:45 pm

The Laundress, Back Alley Old Boys, RIDING HIGH, DressCamp, Five Brother, Roen
Spoiler:
The Laundress
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Back Alley Old Boys
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RIDING HIGH
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DressCamp
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Five Brother
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Roen (doing costume designs for new Final Fantasy lol)
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby Vaeltaja » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:47 pm

Cool idea. Mind posting some info about all those brands? Images are interesting but learning about each brands' ethos and underlying concept, as well as some reviews of goods would make this ace.
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby odradek » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:53 pm

some well knowns but check out some highly regarded brands not penetrating the us market:

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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:54 pm

nevergreen wrote:how's the quality with monkey time? lots of cheap pretty cool looking shit on rak

to contribute to the thread n hoolywood is one of my fav brands

I love hoolywood, everything i've ever owned has been top-notch quality
in contrast, Monkey Time is not ultra premium generally (though I'm sure the quality varies throughout collections). It's United Arrows' streetwear line and a lot of it's made in China and not as nice as some of the smaller labels. Their collabs are usually nice, like the Champion and Asics stuff. I'd say they're about as nice as Jun Red and Hare, which is a step above fast fashion.


2-tacs, Auralee, Frapbois, Sanca, ITTY-BITTY
Spoiler:
2-tacs
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Porter collab
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Auralee
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Frapbois
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insane NBs I almost bought last year
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Sanca
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ITTY-BITTY
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:54 pm

Vaeltaja wrote:Cool idea. Mind posting some info about all those brands? Images are interesting but learning about each brands' ethos and underlying concept, as well as some reviews of goods would make this ace.

Yeah I get you. Honestly I'm far from an expert, but I can try a brief recap of a lot of the brands posted so far. I don't wanna overwhelm anyone. As far as quality goes: the streetwear brands vary a lot, the techy stuff is generally excellent, the fashion show stuff is usually alright, the heritage stuff is rarely not exceptional, and the boutique stuff that fits in different categories (naissance, efilevol, etc.) is usually good quality.

LONG LIST OF BRANDS, detailed posts coming in later posts
The best way to find out more about the brands is by looking them up on Y!JP, Rak, or Google. I hope these brief descriptions pique your interest in each of these brands, or at least inspire you to look into them a little more!
Spoiler:
-Facetasm - currently breaking into the worldwide fashion industry, doing runway shows now. Lots of graphics, prints, colors. Great scope of ideas, from massive shorts with flags attached to them to printed, reversible jackets. Impossible to summarize in a paragraph. High quality

-Minotaur - techincal meets traditional clothes and fabrics. think White Mountaineering but with subtler tech. Good write-up on Four-Pins a lill while back. Quality is incredible

-Naissance - Casualwear with an eye for tailoring. Reminds me of Nanamica, wide scope of fabrics, silhouettes and styles.

-Rottweiler - smaller workwear brand. Hard to find info about, but Americana inspired. high quality. Expect denim and rugged looks

-Hard Hit - Streetwear brand, very little info available. Lots of prints and simple clothes (tees, sweats, etc.)

-Unused - finally breaking into America, lots of cool stuff going on here. It's better if you look up their lookbooks, they have a ton of ideas in their clothes, but they aren't too weird for modern menswear/streetwear dudes. Some stuff is Undercover punk-cool, other stuff is less structured (rollnecks, big sweaters, wooly hats). generally quality is on point.

-Isness - A blend of technicality, with an emphasis on comfort. Heavily designed sweats, rain jackets, and techy clothes with tailored details.

-02DERIV - Very techinical clothing (waterproof parkas, puffer jackets, taped seams, etc.) with nods to streetwear. think of older Taps designs and quality with streetwear friendly pieces (slimmer cuts, prints)

-Gomme Homme - dude used to work for Issey, started his own line of casual stuff with occasional tailerod piece. some of it is too visual kei for me, but the quality is generally quite high. Lots of variety, from drop crotch to bondage to suiting. Similar to Ryuichiro Shimazaki

-filmelange - similar to naissance, but with emphasis on knitwear and comfy-ass fabrics. specialties include gorg sweaters. STRONG emphasis on basics; whenever I look them up I always find lots of basic tees, sweats, hoodies, and socks. Quality is above reigning champ imo

-niuhans - heritagewear with modern tailored stuff. don't know a ton about them besides they manufacture a lot of their stuff in-house.

-ones stroke - streetwear friendly designs, collabed with xibalba (quetzalcoatl). Lots of drapey comfy clothes, but also do plenty of slim pants and trim dusters.

-Commono Repdoructions - reproductions of older clothes. very small runs of product. Clothes are very simple, but structured. One of those brands that could fill a wardrobe with versatile, simple pieces.

-uru - Streetwear with avant garde sensibilities - remaking gym clothes with mesh, for instance. really high quality clothes.

-Phigvel - ultra nice heritage wear, lots of baggy fits and super super rugged denim. great accessories. very similar to mccoys, orslow, pherrows

-Mr. Olive - preppy menswear inspired clothes, extremely tailored slacks, sweaters, coats, and so on. collections are often themed (collegiate wear, western stuff) and so on. similar to labrat and bankrobber but includes more prep staples. More of a 'fashion' brand than a streetwear brand

-Factotum - Streetwear brand turned fashion brand. takes influences from tailored menswear (like n. hoolywood) and louder streetwear (like phenomenon/swagger). really hard brand to sum up briefly. I like their denim and outerwear.

-digawel - super great outerwear. Bombers, riders, m65s, the works. Otherwise, casual menswear. lots of playful cuts and oversized tees. Chech out Trove, too. Great quality

-Made in Standard - not a lot of info out there, but basically reworks of wardrobe staples (american inspired slacks and sneaks) and usable tech (parkas)

-Universal Product - big emphasis on comfycore, but with the eye for tailoring that filmelange doesn't care for. Menswear stuff and basics are their bread n butter.

-Bukht - boundary-pushing menswear, bordering on streetwear due to variety of fabrics and cuts. I love their clothes, you seriously have to check out their lookbooks. Imagine Nonnative but all the way gonzo pieces (curved knits, cropped wool jodhpurs, etc.). high quality.

-FOB factory - denimhead kinda brand, make fantastic jeans and a variety of other workweary clothes. They used to have a kinda funny Levi's parody patch on their jeans, but they've been making denim almost as long as Big John I think.

-Hurray Hurray - dabbles in remaking clothes and making bizarre one-off pieces. Output ranges from simple outerwear and shirts to pieced-together jackets. Cool accessories too.

-bru na boinne - make a lot of shirts, denim, and basic jackets, but also occasionally patch their shit up or make statement pieces (like the furry jacket). quality is gooood

-Waste(twice) - Under the nepenthes banner. clothes are very high quality and each season varies in focus (menswear, workwear, techy jackets). Great backpacks and traveling pieces. Strong companion to other Nepenthes brands like south2west8 etc.

-efilevol. - lots of variety in their clothes, very casual and street friendly. Clothes vary from really nice to pretty good in terms of quality (all made in Japan). some really nice seasons where they blend influences and styles, crossing ivy league with modern streetwear (like the loafers and bomber combo). Similar to digawel and discovered.

-Cootie - part of the heritagewear scene, along with tenderloin, rats, and so on. quality is very high, tho I like when they step out of the trad workwear boundaries and make plaid pants and other silly things

-Adam et Rope - make a variety of clothes, from windstopper tech pants to traditional shirting and trousers. clothes vary in quality but the designs are generally cool. I believe this is the house brand of an eponymous department store. More women's clothing than mens. Similar to United Arrows.

-Monkey time - streetweary brand under the United Arrows banner, collbabed with ones stroke and some other cool brands. Seasons vary in quality but the designs are usually cool

-NITRAID - graphic heavy techy stuff. streetwear friendly I don't remember much else about them

-The Letters - menswear brand, big emphasis on shirting, but with some really cool pattern mixing on the pants and outerwear especially. Count on them for quality shirts and heavy coats.

-STOF (SMF) - similar to facetasm, lots of fuckin around with silhouette and pattern. varies in quality but i love the oversized stuff. not a huge fan of the super slim stuff (made some really tight highwaisted denim legging things that were really bizarre), but they make some fantastic, strange clothes like xxxxxl sweaters tagged size m, vests that go down the ankles, and shirts with clashing patterns. wearability varies but the good stuff is soooo cool. Also make a line called sun sex and see or something like that.

-seminead - emphasis on wearable wardrobe-friendly clothes, with subtle subversive touches (cropped jeans for instance).

-Rip Van Winkle - very high quality street/tech/goth(?) brand, crazy nice leathers and highly designed jackets, jeans, and so on. they hit more than they miss imo. Leather jackets are great, and they don't make a single bad item. Also see: John Lawrence Sullivan.

-Whereabouts - don't know a ton about them. some remake stuff, some versatile outwear and casual clothes. Similar to Universal Product in that the clothes are simple, high quality, and attractive.

-Superior labor - super nice accessories (socks, bags, etc.). Sometimes they make clothes, I think, but generally stick to leather wallets, socks and so on.

-Curly - great little label that makes simple clothes with a twist. reminds me of bukht sometimes. Lots of womenswear but even then, a lot of it is unisex. Good quality. Also check out Curly Collection.

-Saltwater Cowboy - Sunny Sports affiliate, both labels do the sporty, beachy casualwear vibe really well. Less surf california and more citydude who used to live by the ocean from this label.

-Lantiki Crown - in-house label of a store. lots of collabs with other nice brands. They make denims and shirts, emphasis on wearable clothes.

-Pulette - mainly womenswear, high quality basics and comfy clothes. GORGEOUS knits!

-Still By Hand - lovely shirting and knitwear. very comfy, high quality clothes. I think they do denim too.

-Hold Fast - workwear-friendly, hardwearing clothes. If you want that baggy, give-no-fucks look, check out this brand, AndSuns and 50)Duppies

-Vote Make New Clothes - streetwear, lots of prints and patterns. Sweats and tshirts rule the lookbooks. some really cool concepts but quality varies especially on prints. Quintessential 'japanese streetwear' brand.

-ARTYZ - small menswear startup, dude fundraised his first collection I believe. Started out making clothes with 50's steeze with modern cuts on jeans, moved onto a wide variety of goods. shoes are bonkers

-MEAN - shirts and outerwear are standouts, simple clothes with typical japanese variation (i.e. curved hems, exaggerated cuts, raglan sleeves, and so on).

-A Vontade - workwear, all made really well and a great variety in the cuts (mix of slim and loose pants, cropped and long jackets and shirts). cool brand that incorporates its influences and does something a little different with them. If you want big boy cargo pants, look here or Man of Moods

-Voo - casualwear, lots of prints and modern cuts. You might have to look through a variety of printed tees, and denim to find a more interesting piece, but the quality is good enough that it's worth it.

-Roen - 'fashion' brand. does a lot of tacky stuff (Swarovski skull embroidery!) but still makes cool pieces, like some killer slim black jeans. leathers in particular are nice. I think they made the outfits for one of the new Final Fantasy games. Also: see Roar

-Five Brother - Workwear brand, make some great heavy chambray shirts and outerwear. I'm running out of adjectives for hard-wearing, americana clothing in the vein of Tenderloin and NBHD, but it's all quality gear.

-DressCamp - tons and tons of prints. Fashiony brand, so expect some goofy clothes but the less crazy stuff is totally wearable. everything from rainbow dropcrotch pants to multicolor longsleeves and pleated skirts. Also: Nozomi Ishiguro.

-Riding High - loopwheeled sweats and tees. high quality and very casual, like most of the denimhead brands.

-Back Alley Old Boys - casual workwear, lots of callbacks to americana classics but the cuts are more updated than most of the repro brands. Quality clothes.

-The Laundress - printed tees, maybe sweaters, and homecare stuff. scents, soaps and more. Make a fantastic cashmere wash!

-Tiger Brocante - casualwear, approaching streetwear, with lots of approachable blends of menswear with outdoorsy stuff (tailored and cropped linen pants, band collar shirts). A lot of very wearable summery clothes that make me wanna go traveling.

-ITTY-BITTY - tailored menswear. Nods to workwear with a lot of hard-wearing fabrics and some wider/boxier cuts, but not a lot of denimhead stuff; less emphasis on looser jeans and denims, no flannels etc. similar to waste twice

-Sanca - casual comfy basics. lots of shirting but also cool textured shirts and jackets.

-Frapbois - zany ass fashion brand. approaches streetwear. emphasis on womenswear but the cuts are usually generous enough for men. they do make mens clothes, and they're suitably crazy. loud colors and when the colors are muted they usually throw in a pattern. Also see ne-net and mercibeaucoup. Pants are almost always dropcrotch, patterned and/or a weird color, and the shirts range from legit hydrating as hell all-over print and disney collabs to bizarre megasized tees.

-Auralee - ultra nice male and female clothes with casual cuts and fabrics (terry cloth blazer is stunning). Gorgeous #chillwave colors, the suiting is some of my favorite ever (def not traditional #menswear)

-2-tacs - techy casualwear. Porter collab is fantastic. general offering varies in quality, but the vast majority is very cool. climbing pants with casual fabrics, water-resistant parkas, the works. Also make a like called Brown that epitomizes simple wearability.

I'll try to include descriptions with the rest of the stuff i post. Feel free to add cool stuff you see around the internet, obscure or not.


ARTYZ
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Still By Hand
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby pips » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:12 am

Matohu

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A lot of their work deals with reinterpreting traditional Japanese silhouettes, motifs and themes for contemporary wear.

For a different kind of fashion, here's my favorite Japanese lolita brand: Mary Magdalene. It's more classic and old-world than the usual sweet or gothic styles found in other lolita brands.

Image

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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:13 am

Ficouture - travel-friendly bags and accessories; think Porter and Masterpiece. lots of cordura so u know they're tough
Spoiler:
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Cosmic Wonder Light Source - You prolly know this brand. Casual styling always subverted through clever tailoring and pattern work. lovely fabrics. Some really out-there clothes. They have a few sublabels like Cosmic Wonder Jeans.
Spoiler:
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White Line - shirting and denim and other staples. Emphasis on casualwear, clothes are based on older pieces of clothing - emotion uncovered
Spoiler:
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Lowloom - staples remade in denim and indigo. believe it's all made in-house. lots of playful tailoring; shorts are cut long and wide
Spoiler:
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[spoiler]Image

n-s - (pronounced "no ess") casual clothes with fun details and unorthodox cuts. kinda similar to dulcamara but less wide/weird
Spoiler:
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Bal - fairly popular streetwear label that makes a lot of different styles of clothes depending on the season/mood. Varies from outdoorsy Nigel Cabourn-kinda stuff to outre Phenomenon colors and prints.
Spoiler:
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Macbatros - lots of shirting, but if you look around, you can find their neat outerwear (moleskin jackets!). quality is variable, mainly on shirts.
Spoiler:
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Necessary or Unnecessary - versatile casual pieces with an outdoorsy bent. CPO shirts meet technical raincoats and cordura bags.
Spoiler:
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby IsaiahSchafer » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:17 am

Really love this thread, but can we put long lists of pics in spoilers? I'm getting Karpal (ha! japanese brand reference!) tunnel from scrolling and I'm running out of magnets and healing crystals. ;_;

I want to say "can we please" to be polite, but in text it looks sarcastic and condescending. Please tho.

p.s. is Kapital too mainstream? I ordered some pants form them through fromjapan and they just got here today. Will post some pix
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby Vaeltaja » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:34 am

Alice Auaa. Goth and goth lolita stuff. Likes to take fairytale themes and such as motifs/ideas for their clothes. Mostly a women's brand, but some stuff is unisex/wearable for men. Very theatrical runway shows, I recommend them.
Quality: mostly unknown, especially for the more lolita stuff. I have a pair of lambskin "jeans" from them which are probably mid-quality. Pants feature an annoying mid-calf split where they joined one piece of leather to another, probably because the hide was not long enough for a single leg. I consider this a sign of lesser quality, but I might be trying to hard too find fault.

Lacey, leather, sometimes fetish-y. Fairytales for the deranged.

Image

Image here.
Spoiler:
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Potentially NSFW (some vids can be)
Spoiler:


Owner lives the look (Yasutaka Funakoshi)
Spoiler:
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:51 am

amikrumpingnow
Really love this thread, but can we put long lists of pics in spoilers? I'm getting Karpal (ha! japanese brand reference!) tunnel from scrolling and I'm running out of magnets and healing crystals. ;_;

I want to say "can we please" to be polite, but in text it looks sarcastic and condescending. Please tho.

p.s. is Kapital too mainstream? I ordered some pants form them through fromjapan and they just got here today. Will post some pix


Yea I got you
Kapital is def not too mainstream, post that shit up. This thread's not exclusive to lesser known brands, tho they are encouraged. Anything Japanese and cool is welcome. There is that Kapitalworld thread tho!
from japan is probably my favorite of the bigger proxy companys.
EDIT: I went to edit my earlier posts to spoiler the picdumps but I can't edit them for some reason.. I was going to edit that big block of text to make it more legible and add details too. Sorry yall

Shama - I know almost nothing about this brand. Streetwear stuff, I think.
Spoiler:
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Wild Things - Techy outdoorsy brand, obviously made for the elements but a lot of it can be dressed down. Some seasons are less outdoorsy than others, but there's always that influence of the outdoors and adventure.
Spoiler:
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ts(s) - Daiki (of Engineered Garments) Suzuki's brother. Makes tailored pieces, lotta menswear stuff but the majority of it can be dressed down. I think more people are stocking the brand internationally. Similar to Engineered Garments in consistency and quality, but definitely leans more toward trad. menswear
Spoiler:
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Benabeu - casual clothes like efilevol. Slimmer, modern silhouettes are the norm, with sensitive color-blocking and patterning to break up the straightforward designs.
Spoiler:
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Inpaichthys kerri - very silly name, but serious clothes. casual americana stuff, with nods to outdoorsy clothes and prep. I hate saying "kinda like visvim" but... clothes are nice though.
Spoiler:
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Blackweirdos - casualwear. one of their recent seasons was very twin peaks inspired but my computer is so slow i'm just too lazy to dig it up. quality varies but the ideas are usually on point
Spoiler:
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Jieda - streetwear, lots of prints and relaxed fits. influences range from mod to 90's hip hop, tons of variety in their seasonal collections
Spoiler:
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08 sircus - fine eye for silhouettes, menswear with casual clothes juxtaposed in the same look. great color palettes and a consistent modern (but not toooo slim) silhouette. Recalls Naissance and isness
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Unrivaled - revisions of classic american clothes like shirts, shorts and stadium jackets with prints, materials, and bizarre cut-and-sew. high quality. Owner is really into old school American clothes and dressing them down.
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Labrat - these dudes are blowing the f up in japan, loads of rock n roll style done up in modern streetwear style. some super wearable classics and forward-thinking creations. Theres a possibility you might be seeing more of them very soon, with any luck.
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...and wander - techy company, makes backpacks and outdoorsy gear. If there's a modern equivilant to the old Taps and NBHD techy stuff this brand may provide it; lots of good old Patagonia and TNF referencing. Similar to Wild Things, but with an emphasis on camping and all-terrain preparedness, while Wild Things is deliberately set on harsher conditions and hiking/skiing/etc,
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While I was grabbing pics I realized that this website has a ton of cool brands on it. I've never seen their site before but there are some great brands I've never heard of on there.
http://eightyfoureightyfive.com/category/clothes/
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby Rosenrot » Tue Apr 28, 2015 4:50 am

odradek wrote:some well knowns but check out some highly regarded brands not penetrating the us market:

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I'm wondering why the brands are divided under East and West.
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby smiles » Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:19 am

apparently it's a sumo ranking chart. East and west are the traditional divisions, with east being more prestigious (via wikipedia)
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby g.oos » Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:49 am

Meanswhile
Got launched early last year, more in this four-pins article
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ManofMoods (MofM)
Japanese snowboarding brand, they have nice shells and pants, also relatively cheap on y!jp
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby nick » Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:39 am

@trasparenti this is GREAT - thank you so much for sharing this content, I'll definitely dig into it deeper in a bit, look at all the brands.

Random fashion ramblings ... Japanese style in general seems to have this look of effortless or genuinity by having the tailoring always be a little bit 'off' (or at least for the Western menswear consumer) - usually with strange lengths / widths that lie somewhere between zero break and truly cropped - or having a wide leg but a short rise. 3/4 sleeves too. Or wide ones. What I see from a lot of Japanese people my age is a sort of intentional mismatching - stuff like strangely colored tights under jean shorts (for the girls). Weird loafers. Shoe brands relegated to the "tasteless" here. Cut and sew details are a common detail that kind of goes along well with it too. There's always that level of appropriation too - which gives you brand concepts that would be strange here - something like Sassafras who makes gardening themed clothes for men !

But what's the strangest is - how well people make it work! The weirdness looks natural. The key to 'pulling it off', I'm not sure. I think on an internet fashion forum here you'd get a lot of 'this looks off' - because I think a lot of it does. Yet, that's whats so great for it. I've learned its not for me - though I get my fix to some degree through my favorite brand, Engineered Garments, which has a level of Japanese design sensibility but the clothes are very much cut for the American market.
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:50 pm

nick wrote:@trasparenti this is GREAT - thank you so much for sharing this content, I'll definitely dig into it deeper in a bit, look at all the brands.

Random fashion ramblings ... Japanese style in general seems to have this look of effortless or genuinity by having the tailoring always be a little bit 'off' (or at least for the Western menswear consumer) - usually with strange lengths / widths that lie somewhere between zero break and truly cropped - or having a wide leg but a short rise. 3/4 sleeves too. Or wide ones. What I see from a lot of Japanese people my age is a sort of intentional mismatching - stuff like strangely colored tights under jean shorts (for the girls). Weird loafers. Shoe brands relegated to the "tasteless" here. Cut and sew details are a common detail that kind of goes along well with it too. There's always that level of appropriation too - which gives you brand concepts that would be strange here - something like Sassafras who makes gardening themed clothes for men !

But what's the strangest is - how well people make it work! The weirdness looks natural. The key to 'pulling it off', I'm not sure. I think on an internet fashion forum here you'd get a lot of 'this looks off' - because I think a lot of it does. Yet, that's whats so great for it. I've learned its not for me - though I get my fix to some degree through my favorite brand, Engineered Garments, which has a level of Japanese design sensibility but the clothes are very much cut for the American market.


Yeah of course. You make some good points. One of the things about Japanese clothing brands everyone makes a big deal about is how effortless a lot of these looks are, yet they're so bizarre in a western sense of dress. It's definitely a mix of unusual cuts (big shorts, cropped pants, oversized/trim jackets), fabrics, and styling. I think the main way to pull it off is with attention to silhouette and fit. the clothes don't have to 'flatter' the body, so much as they have to create an attractive silhouette. There's definitely a lot more work put into the styling of the lookbooks than it may seem, and there's also plenty of not so good Drop Tokyo pictures. Still, Japanese labels just go for it; as opposed to how safe a lot of young Western labels play it, a lot of Japanese labels are making bold statements with their cuts and clothes. I'd love to see more internet fashion headz buy weirder clothes from Japanese labels and rock them. A lot of them are more wearable pieces than people give them credit, and they could totally work in an otherwise conventional wardrobe. Plus, even with proxy costs you can find some really cheap deals online.

If you like EG, definitely look into ts(s) and stuff like Remi Relief and Spellbound. A lot of Japanese brands make clothes with cuts that work on westerners, they're just harder to get your hands on. EG has some weird stuff of their own, it's just that their weirder clothes aren't as popular. check out these flight pants on eBay
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Also, like you mentioned Sassafras, there's a company called BIB that makes fashionable apron/bib things
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I have a lot more brands to post up later. fwiw it's easier to find more brands when you look into the stores that sell other cool brands. https://www.facebook.com/hideandseekstore is a good one, they're where I got that pic of BIB from and they have Curly's s/s15 collection. They also stock MOFM, Jigsaw, and Geruga and they're all really cool.
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 1:04 pm

Figure while I'm here I might as well post up one of my favorite brands, Sage de Cret
I have a gorgeous blazer from this brand and I think I sold some cargoes to @mc-lunar. I kinda miss them but thats the way it goes.
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they often do patchworky pattern swapping, the blazer I have does a bunch of that and the fw 15 collection has some cool examples of it. Otherwise, they reliably create lovely textured casual clothes, with some loosely tailored pieces. Again, if you like EG, Sage de Cret kinda takes that vibe but they avoid heavy workwear vibes with weird/modern pieces (patchwork parka, tapered cargoes). They remind me of a less out-there Talking About The Abstraction, who I will post later. They make some REALLY crazy pieces.

Sage de Cret fw '14
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EDIT: @Nick sounds cool man, You should post the complete look sometime.

BTW I was reading a book on Japanese designers and they had a big ol list of names. These are Japanese designers who've shown runway collections or worked with Kenzo, Issey, CDG, etc. before starting their own company. Check them out
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:24 pm

I've bought several pants from Japan in an effort to find pants that I can fit - too much biking = too tight pants - and unfortunately I've sold pretty much everything I've proxied. I'm always on the hunt for more pants, the weirder the better. Living in Florida makes it unrealistic to spend a lot of money on jackets or outerwear so pants are pretty much as good as I can get.
Here's some:

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N. Hoolywood sample trousers
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efilevol tight black pants
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N. Hoolywood cropped pants
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Spellbound herringbone work pants (the quality and pattern was insane)
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Sage de Cret Cargos
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also: one of my fave lookbooks, Nanamica s/s '13, "One Ocean, All Lands"
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Nanamica s/s '14

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So, Nanamica is great because they've got the blend of techy fabrics (Gore, windstopper, climacool) with traditional wardrobe staples (macs, baseball caps, kangaroo parkas, hoodies, chinos) and the colors are always like navy, tan and muted earth tones. So super versatile clothes that could be paired with any other brand, Japanese or not. TNF Purple Label is also perfect, field jackets and climber pants done up in gore-tex denim, water-resistant fabrics, etc
Of course, everything is cut great; lots of modern cuts (slim fits) but everything's totally timeless - nothing too skinny, every piece is mature, but there's a youthfulness to it all too (the way the chinos are all rolled up, the light colors). Everything they do is subtly techy, but the pieces are everyday clothes, nothing with the crazy patterns and pieces of facetasm or Sasquatchfabrix Eototo.
The quality is very high and the prices generally match. I think they do their best work with summery looks: there's great flow in their clothes. Lots of straight, clean lines and simple silhouettes in the lookbooks, which isn't even what I usually wear but it just vibes right. The kinda stuff you wear to run errands but done up with sharp cuts and great fabrics. I usually don't care for sweatpants with cuffs but Nanamica's never look slouchy ya know? The cropped pants are definitely strong here. The f/w stuff is excellent but there are a ton of brands doing casual techy jackets and such (2-tacs, And Wander, Made With Standard, even Anachronorm does a couple). The summer stuff isn't as overtly surfy and casual as Sunny Sports and it's not as refined and mature as The Stylist Japan's summery looks.
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby Vaeltaja » Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:40 pm

Taichi Murakami

Previously a worker for M.A+

Uses stuff like konjac for coating. Has done at least one patchwork piece. The "mountain parka" is probably the closest thing to distilling his entire "look" into a single item.

Website doesn't have cool images :(

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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby ramseames » Tue Apr 28, 2015 5:42 pm

http://hypebeast.com/tags/six-stories-of-gore-tex

Good series of interviews with Japanese designers specifically about goretex.

I wish nanamica would do more to differentiate purple label from their mainline, they've been converging for the Past ~4 seasons and at this point aside from the really fucking amazing rainforest print and the half dome they're nigh indistinguishable.

Also this thread is like a day old and already a nightmare to load, pls spoiler or make imgur albums yo
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby UnwashedMolasses » Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:29 pm

Any Western stockists for some of these brands other than Blue Button Shop?
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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby soundclip989 » Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:53 pm

Yantor

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Edwina Hoerl

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Auttaa

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My beautiful Landlet

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House of the Very Islands

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Re: Let's talk Japanese designers, brands, clothes

Postby trasparenti » Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:11 pm

Some examples of heritage brands that Japanese designers or the Japanese market have influenced. There's a been a big influx of brands coming back from the brink of irrelevance thanks to their popularity in Japanese fashion magazines. Other brands have received a big boost (like Wolverine)

Manastash
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Seattle by way of Japan. soon-to-be-defunct brand taps Japanese designers, completely new brand identity is born. Used to have some great climbing shorts, but they were too big...
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Browns Beach
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"Originally developed in Worcester, MA in 1901, the Brown's Beach Jacket brand was built to last for people who loved the outdoors. The brand went defunt in the 1960s due to the prevalence of cheaper materials, until they were revived in recent history in Japan. Our range of Brown's Beach Jacket pieces are entirely Made in Japan."
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Gramicci
Been around forever but was far from 'stylish' in America. Japan has been huge into the brand for a long time, Soph and Nonnative did collabs (Nonnative did a bunch). If anything, Gentry stocking the Tokyo G last year was symbolic of how far the brand has come in terms of being considered fashionable. If you ever need a pair of chinos, the Tokyo G is on Gramicci's website for like $50, comes in a million colors and it's a great pant.
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Comme Ca
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English brand for women finds big success in Japan, eventually begins being designed for and by Japanese market.
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Margaret Howell
We all know and love her, but the Japanese market just eats up the MHL line like no ones business. Her website even has a Japanese version now. There's a load of Japan-only releases, like the great NB 420s that came out last year. Simple, quality clothes are the Howell trademark
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Cash Ca
Company created by ex-Margaret Howell designer, eventually adds Kazuki Kuraishi (also designs KZK for adidas and other stuff) to design after a decade.
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