Japanese designers

[pips]

Another non-Japanese designer who had a lot of success in Japan is Christopher Nemeth, but I dont know if you can consider him obscure since Louis Vuitton paid tribute to his work in their F/W 2015 Menswear collection. His clothes feature a lot of deconstruction and using/reusing unusual materials.







Here's a sample of the LV tribute collection:

[trasparenti]

Another non-Japanese designer who had a lot of success in Japan is Christopher Nemeth, but I dont know if you can consider him obscure since Louis Vuitton paid tribute to his work in their F/W 2015 Menswear collection. His clothes feature a lot of deconstruction and using/reusing unusual materials.

Spoiler:

Here's a sample of the LV tribute collection:

Nah, that's a good example. Nemeth stuff is great, there's been a pair of pants on Grailed for forever that I would grab if I ever got the dosh
https://www.grailed.com/listings/55549- ... cted-pants
Definitely underrated in my book.

While we're talking runway-tier Japanese designers I wanna mention Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth, designed by one of Yohji's designers, Michiko Suzuki

Spoiler:

eventually I'll get around to posting about Ganryu and stuff. I don't care if it's not suuuuuper obscure, as long as it's not household-tier, it's all welcome here.

Tricot CDG 2004/5

Spoiler:

coutesy of Buckwheat on SZ

[trasparenti]

@jrisk if those Manastash shorts could fit 30-32" waist, hmu... If anyone's lookin for some Gramicci pants I have a pair or two I don't really wear.

I really like weird, heavily designed clothes and I think corduroy is a great fabric. someone called it the fabric of slackers. I'm into that.
Point is, got some twisted seam cords from http://ks-clothing.com/ which has a load of great clothing from a variety of Japanese brands. Focus lies somewhere between gothy and casual. Think Viridi-anne, Attachment and Julius moreso than Paul Harnden or BBS, plus the occasional loud streetwear kinda brand. Everything's pricy. Bigger brands they stock include Individual Sentiments, Shellac, and Guidi, but there are a ton of smaller designers of clothes and accessories featured.
Dhyana
tweed/paper (?!) pants

Spoiler:

No Id.

Spoiler:

looks like an e. tautz shirt i saw once

Attack The Mind

Spoiler:

Stan Smith-alike

Volga Volga

Spoiler:

link to view/download entire mag: http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/adven ... ge%2012-14

just some random selections, the whole issue is >200 pages
might be able to offer amateur translations if so desired

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

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Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, I've enjoyed reading everyone's posts. I'd really like to see some other people's favorite looks/brands

[trasparenti]

Kinda busy but soonish I'll upload an issue of Go Out, one of my fave Japanese magazines.

Their website is pretty great. it is in Japanese, but there's a relatively easy to explore interface and they stock some really cool brands that blend casual outdoorsy clothes with technical details and fabrics
http://www.goout.jp/

If you like TNF Purple Label or 50)DUPPIES or any of the Grammici/Manastash stuff posted earlier this should be up your alley

Spoiler:

[Rosenrot]

@trasparenti this is GREAT - thank you so much for sharing this content, I'll definitely dig into it deeper in a bit, look at all the brands.

Random fashion ramblings ... Japanese style in general seems to have this look of effortless or genuinity by having the tailoring always be a little bit 'off' (or at least for the Western menswear consumer) - usually with strange lengths / widths that lie somewhere between zero break and truly cropped - or having a wide leg but a short rise. 3/4 sleeves too. Or wide ones. What I see from a lot of Japanese people my age is a sort of intentional mismatching - stuff like strangely colored tights under jean shorts (for the girls). Weird loafers. Shoe brands relegated to the "tasteless" here. Cut and sew details are a common detail that kind of goes along well with it too. There's always that level of appropriation too - which gives you brand concepts that would be strange here - something like Sassafras who makes gardening themed clothes for men !

But what's the strangest is - how well people make it work! The weirdness looks natural. The key to 'pulling it off', I'm not sure. I think on an internet fashion forum here you'd get a lot of 'this looks off' - because I think a lot of it does. Yet, that's whats so great for it. I've learned its not for me - though I get my fix to some degree through my favorite brand, Engineered Garments, which has a level of Japanese design sensibility but the clothes are very much cut for the American market.

I just wrote on a similar topic a few days ago. My opinion is that it comes from the general philosophy of wabi-sabi that permeates throughout all aspects of Japanese aesthetics, but of course its extent varies depending on the fashion of the subculture. The representation of emotions, wisdom and experience is more important than the 'perfect' fit when it comes to cutting garments. This is usually evident when the pieces are made with 'aged' textile which the Japanese are very famous for.

[Jaron75]

Though this is my personal opinion but I have always found Japanese clothes quite high on fashion statement. I have tried SuperDry and other Japanese brands and for me they are among top best mens designers brands making awesome and equally comfortable clothes.

[trasparenti]

I just wrote on a similar topic a few days ago. My opinion is that it comes from the general philosophy of wabi-sabi that permeates throughout all aspects of Japanese aesthetics, but of course its extent varies depending on the fashion of the subculture. The representation of emotions, wisdom and experience is more important than the 'perfect' fit when it comes to cutting garments. This is usually evident when the pieces are made with 'aged' textile which the Japanese are very famous for.

I think this is a really nice, succinct description. There are brands that offer rather conventional clothing but even the tamest brands often include an unusual cut or piece of clothing in their selection. Unconventional beauty is a great way to underline Japanese style. I think the successful marriage of the unconventional with the ordinary elevates select Japanese brands to international acclaim (Nonnative, Sasquatchfabrix, White Mountaineering, Visvim).
So on the topic of unconventional beauty, here's Trove f/w '12

Spoiler:

Though this is my personal opinion but I have always found Japanese clothes quite high on fashion statement. I have tried SuperDry and other Japanese brands and for me they are among top best mens designers brands making awesome and equally comfortable clothes.

I hope you find other brands here that you like almost as much as Superdry :--)


I uploaded some random detail pictures of Japanese clothing I had in a folder on my computer. I'll add more to the detail pics thread sometime, I've got plenty

Spoiler:

Junya x Porter (sold for only $120 on eBay :\)

ganryu

hexico denim

eye of the needle (?)

"geek ding dong"



Kapital

Cyderhouse

kolor


yaeca

BLUE BLUE x Columbia

NOGOOD

Nonnative Gore-Text Postman

sacai

talking about the abstraction corduroy

[trasparenti]

alright let's do some smaller brands.
Eventually I will upload those GO OUT scans and also the Stof aw '15 lookbook but those are both hundreds of images and I am lazy
beware if you have slow internet, many pics ahead

Aldies a/w '12 (lots of pics)

Spoiler:

http://myfreedamn.com/
rough n rugged vintage enthusiasts with intrests that range from moto jackets to old racing tshirts. FFO: Buzz Rickson/Tenderloin/Sunny Sports/other vintage repro brands. Did a great book about Hellers Cafe that I wanna kop
sry for ant-size pics

Spoiler:

Auguste Presentation s/s '15 lookbook i guess

Spoiler:

Nada a/w '14

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1PIU1UGUALE3

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runway show featuring walking cheekbones

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[trasparenti]

Finally got around to uploading the mag, got back from a trip yesterday.
Go Out magazine, download link on my photobucket



Samples

Spoiler:

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/adven ... y/Go%20Out

[HexKeySet]

on that note

Sett - looks like a parent company that puts out Anarcho Pax, Mountain Research and Sett for Mountain Boots (see http://www.sett.co.jp/shop/brands.jsp for the whole shebang)

Spoiler:

Mountain Research
Maybe you've seen this "Phishing Sweater" floating around on Tumblr, with the detachable sleeves


also here with additional "Mid Extension"


"Ash Container" cos you don't want to spoil mother nature yeah


Anarcho Pax

"Saunter".



"Walker"


Sett for Mountain Boots

"Command Boots"

"Outdoors Man"

"Trek Walker"

[trasparenti]

Alrighty
Let's make a quick post on Orslow

"Or" = Originality
"Slow" = Time consuming process of making all garments to high standards in Japan

Different types of clothing emerged as standards
in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.Among others,
military wear and clothes that have their roots
in work have also been cherished as fashionable wear.
Deriving flintstone from those eternal standards
and processing them through our own filters,
we design clothes “slowly.”
Here the term “slowly” means:
・Crafting original clothes carefully.
・Creating clothes that are adaptable to different styles of different times.
・Presenting the antithesis of a fast-moving modern society and fashion industry and slowing it down.

Orslow is well regarded for their care in producing their clothes, especially their jeans and other indigo-dyed pieces. Based in Hyogo, they've been quietly producing high-quality, thoroughly detailed clothes for a number of years now.

Spoiler:

Orslow makes everything from sailor-styled shirts to preppy chinos and sweaters. The clothes are heavily inspired by military wear, Americana, and so on. Orslow produces a lot of staple items (denim, sweaters, shirts, fatigues) with other experiments in clothing (light cropped denim easy pants, selvedge sailor hat). If you like brands like Engineered Garments or Beams, Orslow is pretty much the next logical step.
They're making their way across the pond, you can find their clothes in plenty of stores outside of Japan; for instance, End, Bureau Belfast, Blue Button Shop, and Pavement all carry Orslow.

[trasparenti]

Mountain Research
Maybe you've seen this "Phishing Sweater" floating around on Tumblr, with the detachable sleeves

Aw yeah son. This parka is legendary

the Mountain/Urban/etc. Research labels all put out the dopest shit.

Spoiler:

with removable hood/sleeve piece

without


also, Tigre Brocante, just because.

Cyderhouse appreciation post

Designed by Yuji Okamoto, Cyderhouse makes casual menswear (and occasionally womanswear) that recalls brands like Phenomenon, Facetasm, and Jieda. Lots of streetwear-friendly prints and colors, with an emphasis on wearability. Not a streetwear-specific label by any means; there's a lot of playfulness in the designs but they're mostly grown-up and tailored pieces. Quality is pretty good through and through. Seasons vary dramatically in theme and style; it's not unusual to see a single season encompassing imposing looks reminiscent of Incarnation alongside traditional pieces (suits, shorts) reworked with odd patterns or cuts. I've seen them compared to DBSS, and that makes sense in how off-the-wall a lot of the designs are.

Spoiler:

What's great about Cyderhouse is how they resist making boring clothing. Cyderhouse always punches up their looks with interesting colors, cut patterns, fabrics, whatever. I see hints of the less austere elements of CDG (drop crotch plaid shorts) and Undercover (printed sweaters with patterns... and burgers) worn with contrastingly simple pieces like fitted shirts and derbies.

Spoiler:

Each collection includes refined staples like slim pants and sweaters, casual pieces like stadium jackets and graphic tees, and pieces that blur the line like darted grey pants patterned with the brand's wave/chain link-looking logo and a transparent rider jacket. Cyderhouse delivers a great deal of pieces season after season that defy easy categorization (ss '12 in particular). It's not difficult to understand why Western stores haven't gotten around to stocking them yet.


Cyderhouse ss '15 - focus on big boots and patterns.

Spoiler:

aw '11 - punk and 90's anti-style. Leather jackets, jeans, ripped denim, graphic t-shirts, bandannas, chunky accessories, and oversized sweaters

Spoiler:

ss '13 - cardigans, cropped, slim pants and shorts worn with loafers for a bit of ivy league influence, further exploration in burger prints, and just enough off-kilter design choices (band collar shirts, high-waisted plaid shorts, blue leather jackets, gauzy tees) to remain out of touch with any single source of flintstone.

Spoiler:

aw '12 - moto and rider jackets done up with shearling, leather, and, uh, honeycomb print. Tapered pants with chunky boots to complete the steeze

Spoiler:

ss '12 - a swath of prints, patterns, and colors not inspired by any one culture or style.

Spoiler:

[yoyobeat]

Procrastination is real. Uploaded first 150 pages (includes mediocre ads unfortunately) of Men's Non-No from december 2014. Has some good stuff.

Spoiler:

full size full album: http://imgur.com/a/mJLK7








lol @ "big bottom"










if you like embedded album better here's the full

[trasparenti]

EDIT: broken pictures

Sise SS '11
inspired by Tekkon Kinkreet!

Spoiler:

[trasparenti]

Alright I'll get back to regular updates sooner or later. s/o to anyone who cares lmao
@yoyobeat sent me a hydrating ass WTAPS book in the mail! Thank you so much man! I'll be scanlating it sooner or later and putting it up in the thread here.

So I'm sure we all like to shop on Yahoo! auctions. That being said some people were askin me how to do it and even though there's a ton of super e-z guides online I guess they needed more help so I made an ultra bare-bones lil guide.
This is basically how I shop Yahoo auctions so yknow, it may not be perfect. Still, I think it's p simple.

Spoiler:

First up, go to auctions.yahoo.co.jp

Type in a brand in the search bar and hit enter. Then click this phrase in the lower left (says "Fashion" in Katakana, more on Japanese later). This way you'll only get clothing, shoes, accessories, etc.

On the upper right side of the results you'll see these clickables. I generally only use the second one but it's your choice.

The first results you see are gonna be from well-regarded sellers and stores, which usually get the most bids. If you want to see more results go down past all the colorful panels until you see the yen amounts start low again. These are ordered by lowest priced auctions, some of which have buy it now options.

See those blue jeans? Let's say you wanna see what the description says. Google translate is the easiest way to go if you don't know Katakana/Kanji (the Kanas are pretty easy to learn though!). Yahoo! Japan does a pretty good job of searching for Katakana/Hirogana that matches the English you search with and vice versa, but a lot of the results are similar items that pop up because the sellers put your search terms in the item description. More on this later. Don't worry about Japanese sizing (0-4, S, M, L etc.), just worry about the actual measurements.

The measurements are ultra important when considering these auctions; you need to be careful and convert the cm measurements to inches. If you're gonna spend money on proxy fees and wait weeks for them you might as well make sure that it fits. These are common measurements for pants/denim, and they're usually found in the same spot or they at least use the same phrases. Generally the measurements are in one of the first few sections following the pictures. If you see numbers but aren't sure what they mean, your best bet is just to translate the whole thing. Shoes are usually measured by their insole in my experience (26 cm = about size 10) but I've never bought shoes from Y!JP cuz I don't wanna risk it.

When you get something you like, copy the URL and go to your preferred proxy. I like FromJapan; it's pretty straightforward, well-priced, and fast. Make an account and follow the instructions.

If you're using FromJapan you'll see this screen next. At this point add your funds (if you use PayPal double check your shipping address when you make the payment on your deposit) and place your bid. Sniper bids are placed right before the auction ends. If you win the auction, the cost is taken from your deposit. I don't remember if this includes the extra fees or if they come later. After they get your item at their warehouse a couple days later, you pay for shipping.

Thassit. Pretty easy. Hopefully your purchases fit.

-People on Y!JP usually put other brands in the description for one item. That's pretty much how I find more obscure brands.
-Don't try refining the options on the left. Y!JP uses a really bizarre refining system, even with separating men and women's brands. I only look under the Fashion category and never got more specific so I never have to worry about missing something neat.

Also I uploaded an issue of Street Jack from November


preview and link to album

Spoiler:

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/adven ... ember%2014

[trasparenti]

re: scans
I can't take credit for any of the scans I've uploaded in this thread thus far. The most recent one I got from vvshu before the website changed. You can still get new issues of stuff from their website, but you can only view one image at a time so downloading a whole magazine is kind of a pain.
That being said you can look at a TON of them for free and they have some cool stuff uploaded too, like the Bape e-mook.

http://www.vvshu.com/type/ssnz/


I think one or two of the other ones was from hudie (RIP). When I do scan stuff, like the WTAPS book I'll get around to sooner or later, I use library scanners which are just normal backlit scanners. My scans are waaayy less clean than the pro scans, I dunno how they scan but I assume they take their time and use photoshop to correct the alignment.

[BIGBEE]

tying up some loose ends... will post a couple more really good ones tomorrow.
mostly wtaps graphic tees and tags (some pics are kind of redundant sorry I don't ever curate)


















lots of random stuff i've collected and haven't posted, enjoy

[trasparenti]

Nice post. On that topic, here's some scans I made a while ago of that WTAPS book YoYoBeat was so kind so send me.

Spoiler:

I might finish the book soon, there's plenty of pages unscanned. I started to translate but I never got around to finishing. Also I'll get around to adding more in-depth posts on single brands. Thanks to all who've read/enjoyed/contributed to this thread

[fun_yunchables]

this brand doesn't get much publicity in general afaik

postalco: primarily known as a stationery & leather goods brand, it has some rainwear offerings that imo are extremely well designed with practicality in mind. postalco was founded by one of the guys behind jack spade, who after leaving started postalco in new york and moved office to tokyo.

the rainwear is unisex, one size only, fitting up to a men's m. several color options

Spoiler:

rain cape:



the cape actually packs into it's own pocket which is kinda cool

free arm rain jacket

[trasparenti]

Let's talk about Edwina Horl.

http://edwinahoerl.com/

Spoiler:

One aesthetic I've always loved is the semi-popular Japanese look that consists of simple, quality pieces mixed with the occasional dramatic cut or unusual pattern. I've heard people cal it Japanese normcore.
There are a ton of brands that do this kinda style. Without getting too far into boring name dropping, that list includes Discovered, Sunsea, Unused, Bukht and so on.

Spoiler:

bukht

1ldk

Sunsea

Plenty of other Japanese and European designers, like Ones Stroke and House of The Very Island's execute this aesthetic consistently.

On that note, Edwina Horl is an Austrian designer who has found a particularly great level of success designing for the Japanese market.

After teaching herself fashion design, she worked for Yohji Yamamoto in the 90's.. Horl really excels at creating distinctly 'Japanese' designs, in that her garments emphasize comfort (oversized jackets and shirting, dropped crotch pants - here you can really divulge the Yohji influence), dramatic colors, and unisex-friendly pieces. She even has a line of garments produced in the Tohoku region, the area struck by the tsunami in 2011, which aims to support the craftspeople of the region by bringing in money to support them, while also crafting high-quality garments.

Edwina Horl's designs are rarely defined by season or gender, and often makes me recall certain phrases Yohji occasionally uses in interviews, like how his clothing is intended to shield the wearer, and how his clothes aren't limited to a single gender. If you like the unfettered, simple designs of Margaret Howell, another European who caters to the Japanese market as much as or more than her home country, I think you can appreciate Horl's aesthetic. Both designers provide effortless clothing, but Howell prefers to design restrained, yet engaging pieces - whereas Horl excels reworking those simply, understated designs with a subtle twist that undercuts an otherwise typical garment; like, say, a normal shirt executed in a cashmere-soft light burgundy cotton and a slightly scalloped collar. These are clothes not only for those looking to elevate their basics game beyond norse projects or apc, but for anyone who appreciates well-designed, versatile clothes

[trasparenti]

Keeping in theme with the idea of dressing effortlessly and interestingly...

It's been hard tracking down info about this brand, because even in Japan, it's a really, really, REALLY small, niche brand with not a lot of info online.
What I do know is that Drawings in Dialogue is a tiny brand that releases (released?) small seasonal collections consisting of a few, simple pieces, like t-shirts and hats, heavily inspired by painting.



(notice the paint smudges on the trim of the hat)

The line is mostly unisex, with sizing varying between season. The designer, a painter, designs clothes inspired by his life as an artist. He cites life in the studio as being particularly inspiring when designing, creating, and detailing his clothes. The line, from what I understand, is intended to be effortless and casual, the kind of clothes an artist may wear in the studio or to grab lunch, without worrying about getting them dirty or worn. Most pieces reference paintings or painting itself. This shirt, for example, was from a collection inspired by the Renaissance (think of a master artist's signature on canvas):

Spoiler:

All of the garments are sourced, designed, and crafted domestically in Japan.
Not content to simply reference elements of painting in his designs, the designer (whose name I do not know) often adds hand-painted details to the collections, like on the trim of the hat and on this t-shirt:

more shirts:

Spoiler:

From what I've gathered, 'drawings in dialogue' refers to the dialogue between the artist and their art. There's a lot to be said about this concept but this isn't a theory class so no need to get too far into it. However, it's worth considering the value of the painted details and the versatility of the garments so as to deepen one's appreciation of the line.

Spoiler:

The simplicity of the pieces implies that they're meant to aid in this dialogue between the artist and their craft; by providing simple, quality garments, Drawings in Dialogue allows the wearer to spend less time fretting about what to wear and simply focusing on that dialogue between craft and crafter. Furthermore, the 'wearable art' aspects of the clothes relates to the dialogue by blurring the line between art and artist. By staining their clothes with paint, clay, whatever, they add to the dialogue already initiated by the designer and shape the pieces to themselves. Alternatively, the name could refer to the drawings, the art, themselves as a dialogue about their creator's (the designer, the person he designs for, or both) life, artistic aims, and self.

Forgive me for rambling, it's all part of having a BA in English flaxy

DiD pants, coat, and cardigan:


Sweater

Spoiler:

This brings me to the reason I made this post. I bought a pair of Drawings in Dialogue pants months ago on a whim (same ones as in the first picture in this post), knowing nothing about them but hoping they were light enough for the summer. They are the exact opposite.


The quality is incredibly high, but being a hefty cotton/hemp, they're not gonna get much wear for a while. I have them listed for sale, but I think I'm going to keep them after all. There's just a great sense of personality I don't usually get from random y!JP buys.
Many detailed pictures below

Spoiler:

detail on paint splatters on leg

detail on patch pockets

coin pocket and patch pocket

cuff with sewn hem

painted patch on inside of waist

pocket bag

care-tag front

care-tag back

Stitching and pattern detail

back side of the pants

paint detail

rear pocket

stitching detail

fabric detail

The pants have a firm, weighty hand to them. The textile itself is medium-weight and soft, but the construction itself is dense and insulating. All of the paint appliques are real paint. The front of the pants have three small patches that act as tiny pockets. The pants feature a straight leg cuff with a hem sewn inside the leg. Slash pockets on the front, and a single rear pocket on the right side. I'm impressed with the quality, considering how small the brand is. I know very little about these pants except that they're from the FW '10 collection. This collection is also where the hat comes from, I believe. Most of the pieces feature paint splatter details. This collection in particular references the clothing-for-the-studio concept. The cardigan, coat, and pants in the earlier picture are from FW '11, I think, and that collection features less tarnished pieces, recalling the artist outside of their studio, perhaps researching subjects or out to lunch.

To reiterate, I know very, very little about Drawings in Dialogue. The collections are sparse and quality and the designer is inspired by his primary career as a painter. I have no clue if the line is still around, where to buy it, who stocks it, or even the name of the designer. Regardless, I'm satisfied to let the pieces speak for themselves until I find out more information.

[trasparenti]

Oh, and before I forget, I made a comprehensive list of stores, Western and Japanese, that carry Japanese clothing because someone requested it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/japanesestreet ... s_eastern/



Hopefully that helps people who want to buy clothes but don't want to worry about the problems that come along with secondhand purchases.
Feel free to spread it around to anyone who may be interested.

[trasparenti]

I just noticed someone changed the name of my thread to something a lot simpler. Thank you!
Also, I went through and spoilered a bunch of the image-heavy posts from the beginning of the thread. I'll try to go back when I have some free time and add mini descriptions to most of those brands and I'll make a post when I do that.

Here's a change of pace.
http://teatora.jp/

Teatora is a really cool brand that straddles techwear and casualwear. I think they slot in really nicely in between fairly popular brands like Everlane, Outlier, and maybe even Acronym, while retaining the versatile style of Japanese brands like Isness, United Arrows, and And Wander.
Like Isness and And Wander, Teatora designs their clothes with functionality and purpose in mind.

TEÄTORA is a workwear brand for modern creators.

Redesigning the concept of bottoms.
Researching the environments of modern creators.
Reimagining the relationship between the human body and the work chair.

What inspires Teatora's designs are the kinds of creative people whose lives involve sitting in chairs for long periods of time, inventing and creating. They need a versatile, packable wardrobe that can take them from the office, to the airplane, to the boardroom. Thus, Teatora designs light, comfortable garments that employ smart details like detachable tails, hidden pockets, and water-resistant fabrics.

Spoiler:

The label is designed by Daisuke Kamide, who also designs Trove.

Spoiler:

some Trove, if you've slept on them. Outdoorsy, casual, and breezy.

Teatora's guiding principle, 'functional beauty', guides their seasonal collections. The pieces are simple; shorts, pants, t-shirts, and jackets, as well as the requisite accessories for a creative on the go. Teatora is especially designed with pants in mind. I believe Teatore began when Kamide was inspired to create new pants that supported a long day spent designing in the studio, and the line just grew from there.

There's a purpose behind each of the pieces. For instance, the Wallet Pants are designed with elastic waists, for ease of wearing, and feature ergonomically-designed pockets that are intended to be reachable without having to stand up or stretch. Furthermore, they're equipped with a secret pocket intended to hold a passport (although probably not a book and sandwich as well). Most Teatora outer and bottomwear feature their special blend of nylon, blended to emulate the softness of cotton. The threads are woven in a micro-grosgain style, so as to eliminate wrinkling and create perfectly packable pants that are light enough to wear in any climate, and strong enough for a week of wear.

The Wallet Pants are accompanied by jackets and simple shirts intended to ease the stress and discomfort of traveling, while other pieces, like the more tapered Work-Chair Pants, are made specifically for office and studio wear. Teatora has branched out a little bit, while retaining the core elements of comfort that make the line so engaging. New additions include leather running shoes, and bags.

Spoiler:

What's great about a line like Teatora is that although it's designed to serve a specific purpose, the clothes themselves are high-quality (although not all are made in Japan, like some of the tees) and attractive pieces that fit into any wardrobe. You can find them styled with similarly-minded brands like Urban Research and refined designers like Patrik E.

Spoiler:

t-shirt pocket detail

The prohibitively high prices have prevented me from sampling the pieces myself, but I'd love to get my hands on a jacket in the future. Hopefully I can get myself to a store that stocks them in the near future.
Similar brands: Isness, Urban/Mountain Research, Mt. Rainier Design, Universal Products

Kamide in Teatora

[Julio]

cool thread overall. imho discussion on is-ness could turn a little bit towards their tendency to be a little wonky/out there tech boho, sometimes? but as of late they're toned it down *some*.

speaking of tech boho:

monromian
sits in a similar place to andwander, outdoorsy/camping type gear all kept under the tagline of "urban bohemian". their strength and focus seems to be pattern/print development

they cover most bases in terms of clothing and camping equipment, official site should provide ample information
https://monromian.com/store/index.php
i've put up some other photos of theirs on my tumblr before, which saves me having to spoiler photos and such tbh
http://nameloss.tumblr.com/tagged/monromian

similarly is aldies.
cute stuff, again very strongly outdoor in a heritage way--like if gramicci was designed by wonky japanese hippies, almost? there's something very tongue-in-cheek about it overall, but there's also a lot of cool tech elements in the form of packable jackets and parkas, mesh venting in certain places, and majority of the trousers have zipped wallet pocket (back right) which is something that i practically *always* welcome.


again, so as to avoid having to spoiler more photos there's a fair bit on my tumblr (i quite like the brand's jizz overall, i've realized)
http://nameloss.tumblr.com/tagged/aldies
official site:
http://aldies.net/index.html

i have no personal experience with either brand; i was looking at purchasing a pair of trousers from aldies a while back but i've had to put my money elsewhere so it's on hold in the meantime. either way thought it'd be a good place to begin my contributions?

[jujumaster]

Attachment SS16 on point, do like the use of smart tailored with TNs that my shit there

http://www.attachment.co.jp/

http://www.selectism.com/2015/09/15/att ... ring-2016/

[trasparenti]

^attachment always soooo good.

cool thread overall. imho discussion on is-ness could turn a little bit towards their tendency to be a little wonky/out there tech boho, sometimes? but as of late they're toned it down *some*.

speaking of tech boho:

Great post. Aldies makes cool clothes, I think I posted about them earlier in the thread? Don't remember. Gramicci designed by hippies is accurate, also reminds me of Manastash which is pretty much exactly that. I bought I pair of pants once, they were super crazy, dunno if I have pictures but basically Gramicci pants with weirdo designs. Wish I still had them kinda. If you haven't, you should look into Phattee and Nasngwam, I saw a lot of the urban boho look on Penney's. http://penneys.exblog.jp/

Re: Is-ness - I actually like that brand a lot, as far as blending techy/casualwear. I think they're about as out-there as Aldies. They have a really bizarre site that archives their old sites and collections.
http://is-ness.com/
Music/art/fashion collective since 2001. It's hard to pin down the exact style they do but it's generally techy-boho-silly stuff. Their modern collections are definitely a lot more sane than their old stuff, which could be pretty ridiculous.

With a name referring to existence itself,
Is-ness was founded in 2001 as a design group focused on conceptualizing revolutionary creative work and brand images.
By blending a modern sense of contemporary technology, art, music and fashion with the deeeeeeeeeeeeeeep power of tradition, Is-ness strives to express not only via the 5 senses, but rather the heart.

a small sampling of Is-ness collections throughout the years (there's a few big pics cuz they didn't upload right)

Spoiler:

2003

2004


2005


2009



2010

Generally when I refer to them I'm referring to recent collections:

Spoiler:

2014 ss


fw


2015

A lot of the newer stuff is focused on wearability and looking through the collections, there are a lot of sweats, taped seam multizip jackets. and strappy sandals, along with other stuff. I think they look better styled by stores than in the context of the collections.

[trasparenti]

【SUN SEX AND SEE BYE STOF】

stof.org
http://byestof.tumblr.com/

New opinions are always suspected,
and usually opposed, without any other reason.
But because they are not already common.

Spoiler:

I believe I posted a lookbook earlier in the thread bit I didn't really discuss the brand itself.
Stof is a relatively young brand designed by Hiroshi Tanida, who previously worked with Diet Butcher Slim Skin. Established in 2005, Stof "has since released creations twice a year in the form of exhibitions. [Tanida's] original textiles that leverage graphics designed based on seasonal themes have an established reputation."http://tokyo-mbfashionweek.com/en/brands/detail/stof/

Spoiler:

There's not a lot of info on the internet about Stof before 2013, which I believe was their debut collection. Each collection has a spiritual, conceptual title, such as "The Holy Mountain", "Dub and Peace", and "Powers of Ten".

Spoiler:

I think the brand's type really speaks for itself:

There exists freedom that has broken the routine.
Before these have been turned into an output, "Humor" and "sense of beauty" were words that had covered one's life.
The general rule lies in the quality. ... STOF does not aim to expand its business.
Instead, it is trying to observe social trend through the corner of its eyes and create a unique path of its own. ... We are expanding into large-scale activities that are beyond fashion, branching out just like how the veins on a leaf do. ...
If we were to talk about the more essential matter, it will be the "enlightenment" from unique things.
To provide a theme and collaborate based on that theme.
Comparing to that of an ordinary designer, the paradigm is reversed.
The theme that was given in return was "How to utilize".
When in liaison with other creators, "bringing out the strength of that person" will help to advocate the field of art director.
If we were to be in the transition period, it is probably a must for us to change the concept of some fashion designers.
STOF means "cloth" in Dutch.
Its feature is that it has the concept of "clothing with a story behind it"

Spoiler:

Tanida's designs are hard to sum up simply, but are consistently inconsistent. Common themes amongst Stof collections include bizarre/exaggerated proportions (long sweaters and jackets, short shorts, tight pants, drop crotches, boxy shirts, etc.), prints and patterns, earthy tones, and comfy ass textiles - lots of soft, washed cottons and organics. The line contains a lot of versatile pieces, occasionally unrestricted by gender. Jackets and other outwear are essentially loose and often nearly free-sized, the tight pants are elastic so as to fit all legs, and so on. Stof is inspired by the creativity of artists, and is intended to fuel said creativity. Pieces from different seasons can be mixed and matched to express one's personal style, which ties into the versatile sizing and expressive patterns.
Tanida also designs Bedsidedrama, with artist Satou Kayo, and works on other non-fashion projects. Some of his designs have extended to reproductions of the clothing in David Lynch's "Elephant Man".

Spoiler:

2009 fw

2010 ss

bedsidedrama 2010 ss

I highly recommend scanning through their collections on their site:
http://stof.org/?page_id=13891
My personal favorite is FW '15, which I believe I posted already. I think it's a great distillation of what Stof does really well. A close runner-up is SS '15, "Votanica". I love the tabis and shoes.

Spoiler:

[trasparenti]

Hey ya'll. Mentioned in the Travel threak my imminent move to Japan. I'll try to keep this thread alive with consistent posts + updates with all the fun clothes I find over there. I also mentioned that I'm gonna start a Tumblog and try to post about daily life in Japan and other such things. I'll post about that here once I get it going, and if you're interested feel free to follow it. Love ya, Care-Tags!

@fun_yunchables never heard of that band but I'd like to meet that guy

Slowgun
http://slowgun.jp/

I hope you guys like slip-on Vans and nice-ass textiles.

Spoiler:

Slowgun is a brand designed by Bunka Fashion College grad Manabu Kobayashi. After graduating, he moved to Paris and worked as a denim designer. Kobayashi began to travel between Toulouse and Japan and joined the denim factory in Okayama in 1993. In 1998 Kobayashi established Slowgun. Slowgun can also be read in Japanese as 'slogan', which represents the various influences Kobayashi has absorbed into his design ethos.

Spoiler:

nostalgic and cutting age" is SlowGun’s concept.
roots of flintstone came from the movies, musics, and it extracts the "next cutting age" essence from the 60’s and 70’s era and applied it to his special designs through manufacturing and many other means.

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

Sub-brands produced by Kobayashi include Slowgun Kids and Portraits of the Pixie. Both lines are aimed at kids, but Portraits of the Pixie seems to be Kobayashi's higher-end kids line. This means patchwork denim, melton wool coats, and dresses made in England, all for the kids!

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

Slowgun makes casual clothes with a variety of influences. You see some workwear, some Americana, some dressier menswear. You can expect versatile, classic items executed with quality materials and craftsmanship and inspired new silhouettes.

Spoiler:

Kobayashi's world travels have influenced him in various ways. He really wears his influences on his sleeve (literally, heh heh). A lot of his designs are inspired by the clothes and music he loves, which can be seen on their website; alongside pictures of clothes, their inspirations are posted beneath them - pictures of actors like Eddie Murphy comingle with vintage photos of guys from the 20th and 19th centuries wearing particularly cool outfits. This shows in his collaborations and fabric selection; Slowgun has collaborated with a variety of brands, including some INCREDIBLE slip-on Vans (posted above, inspired by haute-couture designers, including Chanel. More info on their flintstone here http://slowgun.jp/announce/%E5%A5%B3%E5 ... %E3%80%82/), Danner boots, Isetan, Liberty London, Barbour, and more. A lot of pieces feature Harris Tweed or some other fabric sourced and/or crafted in Europe, making Slowgun a truly global brand.

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

Visvim's designs are inspired by Native Americans and vintage Americana; Nonnative's designs are inspired by drifters, outdoorsmen, and the effortlessly cool; Undercover takes cues from the punks, anarchists, and skaters; Slowgun's flintstone comes from iconoclasts and world-travelers who soak up culture. Many of the simple, unfettered designs could be packed up in a suitcase and worn in a variety of climates. Eschewing glamour for quality and heritage, without catering exclusively to the repro crowd, Slowgun stakes their own claim in the crowd.

Spoiler:

EDIT: @Vaeltaja hope that's better

[trasparenti]

John/Jane Smith by Yuji Yoshida (吉田雄二)



I only heard about John Smith a week or two ago but I'm really into them so far. Yoshida, the designer, designed In Cloudiness for a while before launching John Smith and its' sister label Jane Smith this year.

Spoiler:

The 2016 SS John Smith lookbook has been pretty well received on most of the sites I've seen it on (http://hypebeast.com/2015/10/john-smith ... r-lookbook) but not many people saw the '15 AW lookbook inspired by Billy The Kid and the sheriff who killed him, Pat Garret:

Interview with Yoshida: http://www.shipsmag.jp/2014summer/article.php?no=34

The Smith lines are intended to be versatile, casual, and comfortable. Everything is made in Japan and meshes really well with Visvim, Nonnative, and Bukht, along with other popular casualwear brands. One distinct thing that Yoshida does really well is design clothes unhindered by gender; John/Jane Smith share pieces with androgynous and generous cuts, although each line does contain certain pieces intentionally cut for men and women. Still, of the gender-specific pieces allow for both men and women to wear them, however.

Spoiler:

None of the Western sites that mentioned the new collection linked John/Jane Smith stockists, so I found some.
Birthday: http://www.birthday-fuk.jp/home.html
Colors: http://shop.colors-store.com/?mode=grp&gid=1230354
Birdseye: http://www.birdseye.ne.jp/fs/birdseye/c/br-incloudiness
Birthday also sells Jane Smith. There are more shops out there if you're willing to look. It's a cool brand that I see big things happening for. With Kaptain Sunshine and a few other previously unknown brands getting picked up in the West, I have a feeling that John Smith will be making its way out here soon enough.

Unrelated: I had no idea that Hypebeast's webstore sells And Wander, Hender Scheme, Phenomenon, Discovered, Factotum, Facetasm, N. Hoolywood, Minotaur and a bunch of other Japanese brands. I think they just started offering stuff from these brands but I'd be surprised if their reader base bought much. I have a feeling that after this season a lot of it will go on deep discount.

This might be my last post in the thread for a little bit, I'm moving to Nagoya next week and I've been feeling kinda moody (but also really excited and nervous). I started a tumblog and I'll post that in the travel thread so check that out maybe. I'll try to keep this thread updated but we'll see.

[trasparenti]

Quick little Nagoya update. I'm still figuring things out but I went to a tooooon of stores yesterday, including Blowz, Kind, Undercover, Shellac, Tremolo and more

Spoiler:

I'm adding more blurry pictures n stuff. czech it out: http://travels-in-constants.tumblr.com/