Japanese designers

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby jujumaster » Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:41 am

Have we had John Lawrence Sullivan yet? From Arashi Yanagawa, who has an unconventional background into design being a former profession boxer. Some interesting futuristic Bladerunner-meets-Equilibrium type shit, although I have a feeling that the collections just slightly lack a finished refinement, whatever that means. Womens are better than mens.

Oh and SS16 is a bit too Undercover.

http://www.john-lawrence-sullivan.com/

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Noah » Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:22 pm

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Sun Nov 15, 2015 6:47 am

Nagoya has been v good to me. Lot's of kops and lots of clothes touching and seeing. Not to mention the food, weather, people, whatever ALL ABOUT CLOTHES

I haven't had a lot of time/been in the mood to do a label post (kudos @jujumaster) but there is a lot of hydrating stuff to see and I've been very impressed with some of the brands I've come across and I've gotten some impressions of the fashion layout.
    -The CDG family is generally pretty valuable on the secondhand market
    -Journal Standard, United Arrows, Beams, and Ships are like the Gap of Japan (although there is Gap here) - their clothes are everywhere
    -Visvim is just another brand
    -Everyone and their grandma has a pair of selvedge jeans
    -They also all own a pair of Crocs
    -When you're surrounded by so many clothes and so many deals, you get kinda spoiled and take some of it for granted
    -The near-universal reverence we have for luxury and 'Made in Italy' isn't always shared in Japan - though I live down the street from loeowe, Prada, and LV stores, I've found vintage Helmut Lang, Costume National, and Massimo Dutti (among others) for pocket change. Some brands really retain their value, like Dior
    -Not everyone dresses like those cool Japanese streetstyle pictures but plenty of them actually do
    -You appreciate the times where people understand you and you understand them
    -There can simultaneously be too many and too few options - I love Japanese food but where can I get some dang pizza??
    -The customer is not only always right, but always treated like an honored guest
    -If you come to Japan bring lots of money because the prices (food, clothes, magazines, records, etc.) are great, the selection is amazing, and the stores are infinite.

Unused is one of the brands that pops up occasionally secondhand and seems to only produce quality garments. I've never been to a stockist but I like what I've seen. I got a pair of their pants for work - they cost more than I'd like but feel like pajamas. FW '15 was pretty good and demonstrative of how much variety the line produces.

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Pairs well with other young labels like Sunsea, Efilevol, Yaeca, John Smith and Three Blind Mice. I'd like to get a proper Nagoya summary up sooner or later but I've been lazy
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Sat Nov 21, 2015 10:29 am

Many more pics on the blog of various stores and clothes n such. I keep finding new stores in the area, like I had no clue there was a 1LDK or Blue Blue Japan here until I stumbled upon them. Pretty wild. Latest fave is a place called Kaka Vaka - http://kakavaka.ocnk.net/

Lots of obtuse designers like Nozomi Ishiguro, Comme Des Garcons, Shaun Samson, Facetasm, Keisuke Kanda ((love) (love) (love)), Nasir, Hiro and more. Tons of unisex/oversized stuff and a hydrating used/sale section. I have the actual post queued with some more info but some of the best stuff were releases from tiny brands Airr, AO, Shallow and more. Bonus - super sweet and friendly staff. Wish I took more/better pictures. Airr in particular is really cool, it's all de/reconstructed stuff made by hand and sold at really reasonable prices.

Loved the reversible denim jacket and massive parka
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Lorcan » Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:33 pm

Unused is cool, I have some jeans from them.

Comoli is a brand I like the look of, haven't seen them mentioned here.

Designed by Keijiro Komori, started 2011. They do modern minimal versions of heritage-y and basic pieces. Small collections, limited palette (mostly navy, khaki, neutrals). Key items - and the thing that grabbed my eye - are the coats. They do a mackinaw coat and a tielocken coat (based on a very early Burberry design predating the trench coat) that look lovely. Prices are on the higher side (and one would like to assume the quality is line with that pricing). Would go well with Yaeca, Sunsea, Unused, Nonnative. Or Lemaire, Margaret Howell, COS etc.

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:21 am

^nice post! You post on Styleforum right? I just remembered I have an account there the other day

@heckawheel regarding my Blue Blue coin case: I bought it when I first found the Blue Blue store. It's a lil Porter x Blue Blue case dyed with indigo.
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Inside are some compartments for coins and bits for attaching it to a carabiner or whatever. It's neat

I wish I had looked harder though because there are some card and coin cases from HR Remake (Hollywood Ranch Remake) that I love and they're cheaper than cheap.
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Speaking of HR Remake, it's crazy underrappreciated. IMO it's as cool as most Blue Blue stuff. They're both insanely affordable considering how nice they each are.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Julio » Tue Dec 01, 2015 1:30 pm

^talking about coin purses, can we talk about eyl? (http://e-y-l.jp/)
small business made by a guy by the name of ikemoto susumu (i think; ikemotosusumu on IG). triangle shaped things with a separate zipped compartment (color coded zippers) on each side; bottom zip is largest compartment. there's also a d-ring for clipping keys or hanging off a carabiner or whatever. i have one myself and they're incredibly well-built.
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it was trichome seattle that put me onto them as they are to my knowledge the only western stockist--initially wanted to order from them but opted to have a friend proxy one from me when he went to japan. the above colorway (ships exclusive) was literally the last one left; i wanted the sakura print one but meh. any by then would have been good so yeah! very happy with and recommend for anyone looking for a solid coin purse, odds and ends holder, stash kit (hehe), or even a wallet. the three pocket build works out for segregating/organizing amazingly well.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby jujumaster » Tue Dec 01, 2015 3:20 pm

Scye SS16

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby nevergreen » Tue Dec 01, 2015 3:44 pm

yo next time not as many spoilers please
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby jujumaster » Tue Dec 01, 2015 8:07 pm

Sorted ye m8
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:54 am

Phablic x Kazui
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http://phablickazui.jp/
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I found out about this brand thru luck - found some cool cropped pants at Komehyo (too damn small) with this massive care tag and I was intrigued (pictures didn't work out but basically the entire story below is printed on the care label). Each season they encompass a new theme and base the collection around that concept. For example, the pants I found were from 2013 AW, "Stephan's Post Office".
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http://phablickazui.jp/2013aw/index.html
For this collection, they created clothes for Stephan, a fictional postman whom they wrote a short story about:
On the town corner there is a little post office.
It has a big fireplace, a black cat, and one man.
The man is proud of his work delivering letters, which he will do today as well.
"Oh, weaving wonder lives, what a wonderful life this is !"

This is printed on the care tag, along with a part of a story:
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The collection consists of a complete wardrobe - Stephan's wardrobe; jackets, shirts, pants, shoes, sweaters, bags, coats, and so on. What makes this amazing concept even better is that the items are legitimately fucking cool. Meant to recall the style of a postman, perhaps a postman from a century ago, the pieces are all super high quality and super well designed.
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The fact that this tiny label does this for every fuckin season is pretty incredible and the fact that it's all executed so well is insane. Each season has its own theme and short story (Halu's Flower Garden, Signpost of Johan, etc.). It's all just so fabulously romantic and lovingly executed that it almost makes me mad I haven't heard of this brand before. Sure, a fictitious story doesn't actually imbue any of the clothes with actual meaning or purpose, but it's like Haversack creating clothes for gardeners or And Wander making clothes for explorers; there is a certain impetus that inspires the designs but that doesn't mean that they're any less wearable out of context.
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Super *-~^~-*rare*-~^~-* garms here, not much else about them on the internet. A store near me sells their most recent collection, inspired by a traveler's minimalist and utility-dependent wardrobe. I'll check it out sooner or later.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:46 am

Long time no post. it's so much easier to post bits and blurbs on tumblr. oh well.

So I've been really into ASEEDONCLOUD for a loooong time. I've just never had good opportunity to handle/buy any stuff from them. Of course, today was payday so that meant spending a fourth of it on unimportant things, including some SEED pants.
http://haberdashery.co.jp/brand_aseedoncloud.html
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Founded in 2009 by Kentaro Tamai, the brand is heavily inspired by outdoorsy and adventurous pursuits. Think Sassafras (clothes for gardeners) but more whimsical, And Wander (clothes for explorers) but based more in tradition than tech. If Edwina Horl met the designer for Haversack, they'd probably make clothes like these.
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Tons of versatile, suuuuper well made garms constructed with vintage (and vintage-styled) workwear fabrics. Don't think that they don't feel luxurious tho, cuz even the hard-wearing denim feels soft and lovely to the touch. The jackets and shirts are often cut quite generously, allowing for unisex wear. Very few ASEEDONCLOUD clothes are simply black, for the most part, they're actually just a dark wine/brown/etc. I like how many garments are bright neutrals, unfettered by logos or extraneous design. Each piece is set up with just enough functional design (buttons, snaps, pulls) to be the utmost of simplicity while concealing a great deal of clever and neat design choices.
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ASEEDONCLOUD is big on sustainability, utilizing vintage machines and organic fabrics to demonstrate their passion for nature. They go so far as to include a small packet of seeds with each garment purchased to encourage fans to begin their own garden. Seeds are a huge part of the label, even permeating their line of accessories
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no seeds in these socks, but their palette is inspired by them
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I bought the apron trousers in olive green/khaki. They're amazing to touch; a super soft, breathable cotton with a generous rise and strong taper. Even the buttons feel ornate. However, these pants wouldn't quite be the bit of genius that they are without the detachable apron.
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Looks a little goofy in pictures but it's extremely simple in design and quite neat looking in reality. My friend said it looked kinda like a skirt, which is fair. Four or five generous pockets, the same sturdy but beautiful textile as the rest of the pants, and buttons for removal complete the package, or does it?
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yeah, the apron turns into a fuckin lightweight bag, perfect for the explorer/gardener on the go. I love it. Finally, I have a simple alternative to the fanny pack or daypack. I feel like @julio would appreciate this. Yeah, maybe it's just me, but these little functional additions mean so much to me as a consumer and only make me want to continue to buy from the smaller Japanese brands, tho I have love for Vis and Bedwin etc.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:51 pm

re: apron pants, I dunno if most places still sell them, I think they're old season? Best bet may be secondhand rn.
I checked some SEED stockists and they're all sold out. These black/white ones are from the 'hand werker' line, which is all stuff made from vintage-style denim and workwear fabrics.
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Mine don't have a buckle cuz they're from a different line. I paid 29,000 yen + tax. The 'hand werker' ones were 23,000 but they have a different fabric/slightly different cut. Mine are made from rly lightweight cotton; those are made from a soft but tuff denim and the apron is different (tho I dunno if it still turns into a bag). Pretty sure they do these every season in different materials and cuts.
http://efu2.net/SHOP/aseedoncloud-apronpants-khaki.html

Also, yeah the shirt is SEED:
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More info on Kantaro:
Kentaro is a graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design in London, England. After majoring in menswear fashion design he continued working in London as an assistant designer at MARGARET HOWELL UK. Later returning to Japan, Kentarou established his own label, ASEEDONCLOUD, in September 2009. The label’s name is taken from the title of a picture book, “A Seed Riding on a Cloud”, that the designer created in his childhood.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby dakaf_fal » Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:45 pm

I remember seeing the lookbook for Phablic x Kazui SS16 recently and thinking it was super cool. Looking at the stockist, it seems like one of those Japanese brands that would be difficult to get outside of Japan, even through a proxy. A guy can dream, at least.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Sun Dec 27, 2015 8:51 am

quick lil bit about an underappreciated collab between Sasquatchfabrix and Nepenthes, Chilling

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Sasquatchfabrix is a brand that I think people should investigate more. They do a ton of interesting things but usually people just take a look at their tees or cropped pants or w/e. There's a lot of cool, off-kilter stuff that they put out on the reg, especially with their shirts, outerwear, and hats. Anyways, their collab with Nepenthes encompassed a couple seasons and ranged from printed shirts to chopped up outerwear to a full-on casual collection.

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Chilling definitely lives up to its name, everything is super relaxed and casual without veering far into suiting or obtuseness (SFabrix does both sometimes - so does Julien David!). or werkwear. You get some loud prints and quirky design choices but by and large it's all quite wearable and even low-key. Not the most exciting collaboration but nothing unwearable and more than a few cool pieces for any wardrobe.

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FW '10

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Eddie » Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:42 am

I still think about these sasquatchfabrix pieces a lot
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You don't find good buys often outside of Japan and the interesting pieces are never found on YJP/Rakuten, you have to search for japanese retailers and proxy from them
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby iwtt » Mon Dec 28, 2015 2:09 am

That collarless jacket is fantastic. I was on the lookout for one for the longest time but never found a webshop for it. I think the easiest key word is "Japonism Fisherman's Jacket" if someone else wants to give it a shot.

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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:00 am

iwtt wrote:That collarless jacket is fantastic. I was on the lookout for one for the longest time but never found a webshop for it. I think the easiest key word is "Japonism Fisherman's Jacket" if someone else wants to give it a shot.

yeahhh SS '12 is a favorite of mine. Might help to add "ノーカラージャケット" or just "ノーカラー" to your search. Probably not gonna be an easy piece to find, secondhand Sasquatch market is rarely any good. There's a blazer and some shoes I really like at a shop near me, can't find any pics online so I might have to take some soon.

I love clothes without collars or maybe just a band collar. Sunsea and The Letters do some really cool pieces like that
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If you like Sasquatch's coats you'd prolly like Uru. I like their shirts a lot
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:05 pm

Quick Anrealage appreciation
Found a pair of jeans from SS14, Size, yesterday
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sry for blurry
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Anrealage is constantly doing amazing/difficult/bizarre things but 14SS is one of my favorites. All of the clothes are huge and oversized and much of the collection, like many Anrealage pieces, was unisex.
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Maybe the best stuff from the season were the bags, all made in collaboration with Porter. Most of the bags were HUUUUGE. The selection ranged from printed laptop totes to inflated-looking daypacks. Most of them were black or white reinterpreted versions of typical Porter bags.
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Maybe the most interesting thing about Size was the way they handled the unisex sizing. Instead of simply making everything massive and leaving it at that, each garment features a little dial added at crucial points/seams.
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Each dial can be messed with to tighten internal drawstrings so as to slim waistlines and shoulders to make it easier to tailor the clothes to your own size.
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I didn't realize that when I found the jeans so I didn't have a chance to really mess with it but it seems simple enough. Anrealage always goes the extra mile to ensure their clothes are not only unique, but also incredibly nice. All of their clothes are really high quality.
Also recently found a pair of loud herringbone wool pants. Super nice, equally hard to pull off.
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If you can your hands on something simple from them (jacket/shirt) they're pretty fun to wear. Similar to Anntian but somewhat easier to find secondhand.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Eddie » Tue Dec 29, 2015 2:54 am

You can find an overview of their design process in this piece from pool magazine.
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I think these are some of their more telling pieces.
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the photosensitive textile stuff is cool but I don't really think they're using it that effectively beyond shock value. Shows are definitely worth watching and the soundtracks are great too.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Tue Dec 29, 2015 9:09 pm

Eddie wrote:the photosensitive textile stuff is cool but I don't really think they're using it that effectively beyond shock value. Shows are definitely worth watching and the soundtracks are great too.


Really good post. As far as the photosensitive stuff goes, I liked it. It was definitely really jarring with the photos but in real life the textiles had a beautiful subtle sheen that was affected by sunlight, streetlamps, flashlights and all other sources of light. Photos couldn't really catch it, but it was cool that depending where they're being worn and how they're being viewed, they actually do look different. You could imagine someone just walking down the street and as they pass different light sources, their clothes demonstrate a subtle shift.

There was also a suit and a few other pieces sewn with some kind of 3M-looking thread that did similar things in light but didn't do any color trickery. I found the theme done really well and they accomplished the season's aim of reflective, non-technical clothing.

On the topic of Anrealage just doing 'one trick' each season, I don't agree entirely. Each season has a theme, and each theme is pretty thoroughly explored. There's plenty of misses and plenty of hits, even within a single season (oversized denim shorts from Size are awful imo) but they do a good job of pushing boundaries. If they're gonna be known for anything, it might as well be that. On top of the weird clothes, they do a fair share of wearable things and everything is very high quality. '15 AW in particular has some versatile garms and though it has some similar gimmicks to '16 SS the clothes stand on their own
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Eddie » Wed Dec 30, 2015 1:29 am

this is my favorite 'wearable' piece from them
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Lorcan » Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:05 pm

Garment Reproduction of Workers is a brand I accidentally stumbled on googling vintage French army motorcycle coats (which I have a thing for).

In spite of the name they don't seem to do straight reproductions, so much as clothing heavily inspired by old European (and French in particular) workwear clothes in slightly modernized cuts and fabrics. Their production seems to be split between made in Japan and France.

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I like the rumpled jackets and coats that are vaguely in the Harnden ballpark, the overalls, and the palette heavy on greys and ecru. The lookbooks have a nice bucolic jizz too. I guess its perhaps a bit 'cute' or costume-y for some.

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Official site: http://garmentreproduction.com/
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Vaeltaja » Thu Dec 31, 2015 5:37 am

Let's just lump PH/GBS/Berg/GRoW/Arts & Sciences (to a degree) and just call it peasant lolita. It's much friendlier and might even allow weirder brands like Trove or something.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Lorcan » Thu Dec 31, 2015 6:53 am

Yeah, I think some of that stuff is cooler mashed up rather than full-on peasant cosplay. Like, GRoW would be great with some Story MFG and EG for something a bit more colorful/ friendly.

Ahh now peasant lolita would be interesting. I'm imagining a very serious bespeckled young man in his rumpled $1500 Harnden, with a frilly pink parasol casually hooked over one elbow like it ain't no thing. And maybe a nice pretty ribbon at the neck of his band-collar shirt. Much kawaii.
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Sun Jan 03, 2016 1:07 am

peasant lolita sounds v plausible. Makes me think of brands like Stof, Suzuki Takayuki or one of my faves: By Walid, which is already pretty close to the PH pricepoint anyways

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By Walid
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artful distressing + light layering + playful colors = extremely style
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Julio » Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:57 pm

lol'd @ "french workwear looks"
when does it turn into "peasant lolita looks"
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby trasparenti » Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:07 pm

I wrote a style guide for goth mori / peasant lolita and posted it on Reddit cuz why not. Not super serious or anything but I kinda like how it turned out

https://www.reddit.com/r/japanesestreet ... ta_repost/
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby une_impasse » Fri Jan 15, 2016 12:37 am

Lolita is a really good/disturbing book and its use in fashion is never not interesting
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Re: Japanese designers

Postby Iliam » Wed Jan 20, 2016 10:20 pm

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