RU a chivster? #GTCW [no one knows I'm gay]

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RU a chivster? #GTCW [no one knows I'm gay]

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:15 am

for:
givenchy
shaun samson
chris shannon
og versace
hba
astrid anderson
nasir mazhar
maybe wvb and wilhelm
other people i've forgotten
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:24 am

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:47 am

yo i got u

martine rose
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liam hodges
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meadham kirchhoff (looks to be styled by matthew josephs)
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kit neale
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joseph turvey
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matthew josephs (the stylist)
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new power studio
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alex mattson
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william richard green
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:19 am

some fun/interesting things about this(off the top of my head).

All of these designers are based in London, most of them are british. They all went to RCA or CSM (maybe LCF too). So it's certainly a look that the schools are pushing in a big way. I really wonder what this years MA fashion portfolios are like. There's been about six (???) seasons of this stuff and I doubt CSM and RCA wanna get pegged (heh) as the gay thug school. 'Course CSM in particular is all about anti-establishment.

It's quite easy to be a bit derivative in this style. Just slap some crazy materials on oversized clothes and your're good to go. Obvious top tier people are astrid, nasir, and shaun, they're getting the most international press. Kit Neale and Alex Mattson are a bit too deritivative for me. You can see where mattson is getting a lot of his look (shaun samson) and Kit neale is kind of crazy for the sake of it. Overall though, everyone is pretty talented, and it's clearly a lot of fun

for me, I like it because its 'anti-establishment' both in terms of fashionablity and also in terms of gender/sexuality. By taking cues from hypermasculine culture and beautifying them they manage to subvert the 'hard' edge to it and make it sensual (but still masculine). These designers make some of the sexiest clothes for men I can think of. Also, the cultures they draw from (sports, cholos, chavs, etc) tend to be pretty homophobic so its nice (i guess) that they can deconstruct it.

I like it as well because it makes me feel more masculine and gives me the opportunity to wear stuff i'm not 'supposed' to. stuff like timbs, jerseys, baggy pants and shorts. I encourage anyone who gets the chance to try on some stuff from shaun samson or nasir or whoever. I feel 'cooler' but also i feel like i'm fitting in with the people that this look (and I) idolize. There could be an element of the gay designers expressing both aspects of their personality. Someone like nasir especially. Making them into hi fashion really allows them to be appreciated by a wider audience. Is it appropriation? maybe. but 1. it's not really like those groups they are drawing from have any soft of collective heritage and 2. it's celebratory.


need to collect my thoughts better.
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby can- » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:23 am

where's the fellow teen ГОША fit in here

where does opening ceremony fit in? how did it become the home away from home for international fruteswag?
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:31 am

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:34 am

yeah gosha has a place in this thread

he's kind of different from the london scene in that he's celebrating/sexualising the pubescent/androgynous male form, rather than the hyper masculine. but he is incorporating (presumably i dunno) homophobic cultures (russia; sk8boarding) for his work

when i was last in dsm this 50 y/o megarich middle eastern guy was trying on a shaun samson shirt
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:39 am

Yeah what germ said. He's definitely all about the younger boys. skinny skater boys. I understand as it as a different interpretation of the subversion of 'hard' masculinity. The difference maybe is that Gosha is really involved in the whole russian skate/gay(?) scene as opposed to people like shaun samson who are using cholos or whatever as flintstone.

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby sknss » Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:45 pm

Christopher Shannon’s SS14 glitter hair was fantastic

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“The whole look is reminiscent of Christopher and his youth in Liverpool,” Creative Director of Fudge John Vial, told us. “When he was a kid with no money he wanted a groovy look to go disco-dancing so he used glitter – which is cheap – to create it. There’s a saying, ‘poverty fuels creativity’, and that was definitely the case here. Like with the punk movement, they had no money, so when they wore bin bags it wasn’t because they wanted to it wasn’t because they couldn’t afford patent leather. So Christopher said, ‘How can I jazz it up?’ The answer was glitter!

step by step process

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:02 pm

@ben i don't know much about OC... i suspect that they're simply on-the-ball when it comes to emerging trends and new designers so they happened to be one of the first stockists for a lot of labels

__________

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some gosha interviews:

http://www.marceloburlonblog.com/?p=415
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/ ... ubchinskiy
http://theendofbeing.com/2010/07/16/gos ... h-couture/
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/art ... skiy-a-w12
http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=6738
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby hooplah » Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:22 pm

i love gosha

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby Bobbin.Threadbare » Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:20 pm

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:45 pm

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more like gay-venchy amirite har har
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:16 am

rob evans is the definitive model for the gay thug club designers.

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http://ftape.com/media/?p=10502

what does the gay thug club goer listen to? Zebra Katz obviously



azealia banks



https://soundcloud.com/wolfhungry/nasir-mazhar-menswear-2013
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Sun Nov 10, 2013 4:47 pm

matthew josephs for wonderland mag

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby can- » Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:23 pm

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:06 am

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kit neale, katie eary, sibling. waaat

wild style by Joyrich. Official LA branch for Gay Club Thugs inc.

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official gay thug pose
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:00 am

who can read russian? Gosha's 2008 collection 'evil empire'

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby hirokinakamura » Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:54 am

I'm p sure ben can read Russian
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Tue Dec 03, 2013 11:31 am

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby whinefields » Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:45 pm

cameron- wrote:6herO1dIc4s



Ha, I was friends with Le1f in college. He and his group really started to push themselves fashion-wise towards their junior/senior year. I remember the NYTimes came to school our freshman year and they had him model some Margiela.

Edit:
here it is
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby can- » Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:59 pm

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:52 am

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Guy with the sunglasses is one of the joyrich people I believe.
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:55 am

gosha fw14

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby sknss » Fri Jan 31, 2014 7:30 am

the gosha man is so thug he is not allowed to be more than 10m away from a police station
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby smiles » Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:44 pm

Tried on these shorts the other day. Nasir does not disappoint. Very luxurious polyester and cotton. The inner layer looks like mesh right? Wrong, it's cotton with little sequins/reflectors. If only they weren't 3k hkd. Construction etc seems solid and the fit was nice. Also tried on one of the tape sweatshirts. The fit was a bit wonky, or just supposed to be slightly cropped. Having handled some astrid Andersen and shaun samson as well I don't get the impression that they are only about the design (like something like pyrex).

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby can- » Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:04 pm



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Ian Isiah
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby e0d9n0b5 » Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:54 am

great thread. thanks for all the info y'all =]
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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby germinal » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:00 pm

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Re: gay thug club wear

Postby JonjoShelvey » Mon Mar 10, 2014 2:44 pm

Known for his sick ass masks, Daniel Johnson now also makes gay thug club wear under the name REBEL YUTHS.

From an African and immigrant background, not educated in fashion, Damier Johnson known as REBEL YUTHS creates colorful masks and fashion inspired by anthropology. The masks have horrific expressions that vacillate between comical and violent, often with sexual tension. They are also a reaction to his rage against colonialism and displacement as a immigrant in the EU. - http://www.facelessexhibition.net/damie ... ebel-yuths


DANIEL JOHNSON INTERVIEW

VIENNA FASHION WEEK 2013
[youtube]watch?v=tSy-cgT0X_k[/youtube]

2011 SHOW

[youtube]watch?v=SmHQHVzIS8M[/youtube]


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