✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

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✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Sun Jan 24, 2016 9:25 am

Thread for peasant lolita and mori boy style

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Lets be vagabonds
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby dakaf_fal » Sun Jan 24, 2016 2:21 pm

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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby mellownyellow » Sun Jan 24, 2016 2:32 pm

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Spoiler:
Margiela/COS/Docs

I'm so excited about this top! I was (still am, if anyone sees them in a 38 please lmk) in love with Margiela daisy boots, found this lovely top at random while browsing a small ish shop. The fabric and print has been used on multiple items in the SS15 collection: Detail I found online and some other items using similar prints:

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EDIT: oh damnit changing titles fooled me LEAVING IT ANYWAYS
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Mon Jan 25, 2016 6:20 pm

ASEEDONCLOUD knows what's up

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some Pleasant Lolita footwear inspo
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:29 am

Suzuki Takayuki

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Garment Reproduction of Workers

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Nest Robe

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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Tue Jan 26, 2016 4:29 am

For @natural.log
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(Harnden)

George was doing peasant lolita before it was cool
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Tender's chlorophyll dyed stuff seems ideal for your wild forest mori boy
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby trasparenti » Tue Jan 26, 2016 7:10 am

yo nice

reposting that write up about goth mori / peasant lolita I wrote two weeks ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/japanesestreet ... ta_repost/

Basically includes a bunch of different brands, a style breakdown and loads of pics. It's not perfect but good enough. #peasantlolita2016

imgur album of clothes textures and bits:



also some pics from one of my favorite stores in Nagoya, the Apartment Store! besides stocking SEED, Eatable, Ohta and more, the store is gorgeous.

Spoiler:
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby trasparenti » Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:36 am

Also, just got into this very young brand: EL by Everlasting Sprout. EL is their casual line, Everlasting Sprout is the runway line. Kinda like CDGH vs. CDGH+ or Yohji pour homme vs. Y's; not a diffusion line as much as a staple line that complements the main stuff. Plus only EL has stuff cut for men.

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(side note i bought a Y's suit for cheap over the weekend but sold it to Kindal for cash yesterday and now I regret it. It was really excellent, shoulda just starved and kept the suit....)
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby JonjoShelvey » Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:23 pm

thoughts on why this style never really caught on on the internet? the inspo pics are everywhere but hardly anyone actually wears it on fashion forms
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby ramseames » Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:36 pm

It was usually just the same few trove lookbook pics over and over again, and then select stuff from other brands that kinda looked like it.

One of those things that hardly left Japan at all, I don't think I've ever seen trove stuff that wasn't for sale in yen.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:53 pm

JonjoShelvey wrote:thoughts on why this style never really caught on on the internet? the inspo pics are everywhere but hardly anyone actually wears it on fashion forms


Probably because of how the "niche" has been filled, so to speak. Moriboy came from morigirl (more or less). Sort of a feminine style anyhow and lots of dudes don't wanna look feminine, so there's that. Otherwise, we already have flowerchild/hippie/boho/whatever looks for women. Men who wanna look outdoorsy wanna look rugged so we have all that workwear/lumberjack stuff.

I suppose if you're asking why the mori girl look never really hit up the west for women specifically, I sort of see female mori from a ~very wide distance~ as a wool hippie. Except that's like saying winter summer (except sweaters I suppose).

A lot of the mori peeps (west) also have a strong DIY-look so it's pretty close to Boho and the darker side of things are the witch-goth/strega folks. At this point I'm rambling.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby trasparenti » Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:49 am

JonjoShelvey wrote:thoughts on why this style never really caught on on the internet? the inspo pics are everywhere but hardly anyone actually wears it on fashion forms


That's an interesting question and I've thought about that recently.

'mori' style has always been pretty nebulously defined and most people don't have any interest in dedicating themselves to finding niche brands that fit into a niche style lacking concrete guidelines - bear in mind that I'm speaking particularly of the mori boy style and know next to nothing about lolita style and women's mori which may be flourishing for all I know. Furthermore, most folks who like mori style lack the means or desire to buy into the requisite garms and search out more brands. There's never even been a great deal of mori style appreciation, though maybe 5 years ago or so it was a bit of a thing in Japan. Even then, not much.
Spoiler:
Brands like STOF, Iroquois, Suzuki Takayuki, and of course, Trove, have made semi-romantic, semi-nature-inspired stuff for a fair while but they also make plenty of conventional or unrelated stuff that doesn't fall in line with mori style. I believe a lot of stuff that gets placed under the banner of mori (including stuff I've put in my guide) is pretty subjective. Who's to say that Inpaichthys Kerri isn't an appropriate brand and Bukht is? Meanwhile, it's a lot more clear what constitutes that 'heroin chic' style or a streetwear look.

Unlike noted styles like the drapey Yohji look, the super-slim Hedi stuff, the Supreme dudes, ACRONYM tech guyz, etc. there isn't a single concrete 'look' to anchor mori style and provide a jumping-off point. Yeah, mori style is outdoorsy, romantic, and avoids typical gender norms, but those are pretty catchall terms that could perhaps be applied to brands as disparate as Ann Dem and even current season Gucci (maybe I'm reaching but I don't feel like thinking rn). I think this is the crux of the style's inability to catch on - popular styles usually have a noted brand or two that provide a clear and definitive 'look'.

Brands like Viv Westwood, Dior, Helmut Lang, and Ricky O are singular labels that one can point to as 'the' brand that defined a style or inspired countless imitators, and justifiably so. When what is perhaps the definitive modern brand of the mori style (Trove) is a somewhat small brand in its own country and less than a blip on the cultural radar elsewhere, it doesn't help the case. Even though it's a pretty thrift-friendly style, the lack of tangible flintstone and discussion makes it a pretty hard sell. Plus, it's not like the brands are especially cheap or anything - Suzuki Takayuki pants are around $350 and Trove stuff can range from $200 for pants to ~$400 for a coat.

If mori is popular anywhere, it's only on the internet. I'd say it's more popular on here than in the real world, which isn't saying much but it's something. There are some mori blogs and Pintrest boards - some still active - and the Trove lookbooks which remain mildly popular even after five or so years. Still, it lacks the support and clear focus that it takes for a concept to thrive as a style proper.

tl;dr it's most likely not popular due to a lack of clear tenets and brands that consistently produce clothing in the style, and the difficulty in procuring the clothes.

I don't want to sound bitter tho, I'm completely smitten by the loose concept of mori boy style and it's been fun thinking of ways to really nail it down. I think it has a lot of promise, and hopefully even just one person takes some flintstone away from the recent mori discussions. That reminds me, I found a store near me that stocks Suzuki Takayuki, Haversack, and some other neat stuff called Toron. Beautiful store and clothes.

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another store by me that carries Commono Reproducts, Musee des Arts
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Last edited by trasparenti on Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:47 pm

Yeah I think part of the fun of coming up with ideas for this kind of styling is there's not really any one brand that you can just pick from.

Like with EG, there's a lot that's not relevant, but some stuff could totally work - FW '14 was full of earthy tones that could work for a Mori boy (not to mention this pheasant print !!!)
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby trasparenti » Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:40 am

New Phablix x Kazul is totes Pez Lol
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"Compass of Wanderers"
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby evilfriends » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:44 am

Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist stuff, mostly S/S 2012

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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Fri Jan 29, 2016 4:57 pm

Maybe not as big of a deal if we're doing pheasant cosplay but I bet there are a lot of JP Boho-ish or even workwear-ish brands that get tossed to the way side by moribros because there isn't enough nature in the shoot/lookbook.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Fri Jan 29, 2016 7:35 pm

yeah, by contrast the first Soloist season (10aw) isn't that mori in terms of the actual clothes (needs more earth tones!) but is key inspo because of the lookbook setting:
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Having just said there aren't many brands that neatly fit the label peasant lolita, its a phrase that could have almost been written expressly for Vlas Blomme.

Designed by Yoriko Sakurama, the designs are apparently inspired by her passion for gardening and antiques(!!) Linen is an important material for the brand - they use Kortrijk linen yarn from Belgium (Vlas Blomme = 'flax flower' in Flemish). Womenswear is the focus but there are unisex and mens pieces.

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They also do super cute accessories under a sister label called Ceracus
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There are actually some western stockists too - HLorenzo, IF, Envoy (and Yoox has some mens trousers atm too).
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby yoyobeat » Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:40 pm

JonjoShelvey wrote:thoughts on why this style never really caught on on the internet? the inspo pics are everywhere but hardly anyone actually wears it on fashion forms


I think that part of why it never caught on is because about 80% of the look's power comes from the story the photos tell. You have either the forest/field/natural backdrop, or the Japanese guy against a spacious white/grey/room with nice natural light. These aren't settings that exist everywhere. In these mori photos, the setting IS the style just as much as the clothes.

And the reality is that most people who are interested in fashion enough to spend time tracking down and proxying japanese clothes likely don't live in that kind of idyllic setting. Which diminishes the look.

Remember the urban lumberjack? Issue was, the clothes don't fit the reality. You can wear all the loose earth tones you want, but you likely still live in a major city or a suburb instead of in a hut on Mount Whatever with mice that polish your bulbous-toed boots while you gaze soulfully into the quiet distance. Even if you love the clothes you probably don't really want to leave behind your life and live in that hut. The look is so tied to the setting and imagined lifestyle that it's unreasonably difficult to achieve in a way many other looks aren't.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby synthese » Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:12 am

forest boy is interesting in that, sort of like 'techwear,' you find its muddy green thumbprint all over the world. however, like acrnm or kylo ren cosplay it's rare that it's styled head to toe, especially considering that a lot of the individual pieces are not particularly out there. In terms of combination of separates, an absolute ton of men's brands offer pieces that would work for any pheasant mori gardener look - EG, visvim, Harnden and his ilk, blue blue japan/okura, 45rpm, niche, even a kind of guise and frank leder and earlier damir doma could easily fit in there. less determined aside from a focus on a loose egg silhouette and natural colors, more open to playing with bits and bobs. lots of layers, earth tones for sure but I'm big on indigo and think that it fits in fine with a mori-boy look. there are degrees here, of course: where do we draw the line between mongolian wolf hunter and urban farmer and mori wanderer and dieselpunk wastrel?
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:57 am

yoyobeat wrote:
I think that part of why it never caught on is because about 80% of the look's power comes from the story the photos tell. You have either the forest/field/natural backdrop, or the Japanese guy against a spacious white/grey/room with nice natural light. These aren't settings that exist everywhere. In these mori photos, the setting IS the style just as much as the clothes.

And the reality is that most people who are interested in fashion enough to spend time tracking down and proxying japanese clothes likely don't live in that kind of idyllic setting. Which diminishes the look.

Remember the urban lumberjack? Issue was, the clothes don't fit the reality. You can wear all the loose earth tones you want, but you likely still live in a major city or a suburb instead of in a hut on Mount Whatever with mice that polish your bulbous-toed boots while you gaze soulfully into the quiet distance. Even if you love the clothes you probably don't really want to leave behind your life and live in that hut. The look is so tied to the setting and imagined lifestyle that it's unreasonably difficult to achieve in a way many other looks aren't.


This is the argument about authenticity and to what extent fashion choices can /should reflect other aspects of someone's lifestyle and environment.

Similar to the old debate as to whether you have to ride a motorbike to be 'allowed' to wear a double-rider leather jacket. Even if its a leather designed for fashion rather than riding. Equally, most of the stuff we are classifying as mori here isn't exactly designed for practical use outdoors- in that Soloist picture I posted the entire outfit is cotton-wool-silk blend fabrics which are very comfortable, but pretty delicate and dry-clean only and not really practical for sitting round a campfire. But it makes for a good lookbook image.

Fashion is aspirational - people tend to buy it because of the image they aspire to, rather than what reflects their circumstances 1:1. Having an interest in nature and the outdoors seems reasonably universal and a low bar for entry to me. Its something that helps sell Patagonia, Land Rovers, Visvim, etc. etc. to people who are urban, suburban. I would agree there's a certain absurdity to dressing head-to-toe forest wanderer, but this is probably true regardless of whether you genuinely live in a hut in the woods or not. As far as popularity is concerned, I think it depends how broadly you categorise the look (much as Synth is saying). Anthropologie is very mori friendly and they have hundreds of stores.

I also feel sometimes all it takes is one person or a couple of people for something to have visibility on fashion forums, particularly with niche Japanese styles. Lad Musician would have a smaller presence if it wasn't for hamburgerlady / numberboy / whateverthehellhe'scallinghimselfthesedays. I probably wouldn't have ended up buying the Lad knit I own if he hadn't posted a picture on Harajuju of one of the shop staff wearing it. The idea for 'mori' fashion in Japan stems from a single user on the social network Mixi, calling herself choco back in 2006 and spread from there (Brad T actually wrote about it some years ago http://harajuju.tumblr.com/post/1257329997/on-forest-girls-and-lifestyles) 'Peasant lolita' was coined by Vaeltaja in the Japanese designers thread the other week (and its a decidedly tongue-in-cheek description, much like 'goth-ninja'). It seems funny to me to talk about the popularity of a fashion genre that to a certain extent we're making up and redefining as we go along here.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby soz » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:43 am

Interest check on this Le Laboureur undyed wool french chore coat?

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Sold out everywhere in the UK. Seems like it'd fit this look pretty well and it doesn't really suit my style.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Tue Feb 02, 2016 3:32 pm

Aski Kataski (designed by Katsuhiro Makino) is v dope. Womenswear only (wish he did mens).

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Spoiler:
Makino studied at Bunka Fashion College from 1996 to 2000. During his studies in Tokyo, he won many prizes, and one of them offer him one-year study at Ecole de la Chambre Syndical de la Couture Parisienne. Being registered in the last year, he received Grand Prix in the graduation show. After his graduation, he did an internship in the design team of Sonia Rykiel, and then, in 2003, he founded his own label "Aski Kataski" in Paris.

His creation is based on the nostalgia for his childhood that he spent in an old house surrounded by green near the sea. Using antique materials and commonplace garments from 19th century to 1940's, he reconstitutes memories of cloths/clothing as well as his memory itself.

The name of the label derives from an incantation "Aski-kataski-haix-tetrax-damnameneus-aision" which means "darkness, light, earth, sun, and truth". As ancient priests used to recite these words to protect people from devils, Makino hopes his creation becomes a talisman of people who wear his clothes.


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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Tue Feb 02, 2016 9:55 pm

Elena Dawson
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Needs something to go with it but it's very much an out-of-a-fairytale look
Love what's basically a sort of frayed lace thing going on. Very ~peasanty~ since we're going off that.
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More Dawson, on the men's side of things. Don't really care about the boots or pants but I'm in love with the shirt. Not a super huge layering fan but I love cool base layers.
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I'm thinking Bergfabel (Klaus Plank, bro of Reinhard) might've had that peasant mori thought in his head...
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There aren't a whole lot of Bergfabel pics online, but of what exists, I'm surprised how "clean" his stuff is... perhaps this makes it less peasant lolita.

Very nice leather "work jacket"
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"farmer dress" also some iterations in navy and black

Actually combining the peasant and mori is pretty tough since the peasant/povera/whatever side of things tends to have strong black and white colors. There's a certain harshness in "pure" black and white that mori seems to try to get away from, but these pieces seem like they'd combine at least moderately well.
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:18 pm

Your weekly dose of peasantry

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forest boys
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Sun Feb 21, 2016 4:45 pm

Tumblr user 'Oilstain' does a pretty peasant-y look with some gothninja style brands, very fun to see.

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Mid-layer is too much for me, but otherwise this is pretty great.

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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Vaeltaja » Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:23 pm

I think Uniqlo is on to us, guys!
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby birdman caw » Sun Feb 28, 2016 11:24 am

IMPORTANT THREAD

Garment Reproduction of Workers A/W 2011

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Garment Reproduction of Workers S/S 2014

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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby Lorcan » Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:21 pm

ASEEDONCLOUD (various seasons)
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Frank Leder 2016 spring summer
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A Vontade 'old potter jacket'
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby bels » Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:37 pm



Ventile Lolita
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Re: ✿゚・❀ Pheasant Lolita ❤*✲゚*。

Postby trasparenti » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:46 am

#defendpeasantlolita

rare scans of Suzuki Takayuki stuff in some magazine, circa 1999

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