Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby adiabatic » Sat Dec 03, 2016 3:01 pm

costanza wrote:There is a Swiss contemporary architect named Pascal Flammer whose lecture I attended when he was in Sweden. In his lecture he explained how he wants to avoid the automatisms that we have in the building industry. He wants to question every decision he makes and see if the conclusion he comes to is interesting due to approaching the problem in a previously glossed over way.


Sounds like Howard Roark:

"Why do you want me to think that this is great architecture?" He pointed to the picture of the Parthenon.

"That," said the Dean, "is the Parthenon."

"So it is."

"I haven't the time to waste on silly questions."

"All right, then." Roark got up, he took a long ruler from the desk, he walked to the picture. "Shall I tell you what's rotten about it?"

"It’s the Parthenon!" said the Dean.

"Yes, God damn it, the Parthenon."

The ruler struck the glass over the picture.

"Look, " said Roark. "The famous flutings on the the famous columns—what are they there for? To hide the joints in the wood—when columns were made of wood, only these aren't, they're marble. The triglyphs, what are they? Wood. Wooden beams, the way they had to be laid when people began to build wooden shacks. Your Greeks took marble and they made copies of their wooden structures out of it, because others had done it that way. Then your masters of the Renaissance came along and made copies in plaster of copies in marble of copies in wood. Now here we are, making copies in steel and concrete of copies in plaster of copies in marble of copies in wood. Why?"
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby noodles » Sun Dec 04, 2016 1:36 am

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This Hender Scheme jacket is so cool
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby khayandhi » Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:58 am

for the first time in about 3 years I thought to myself "hmm, it's a good day to wear skinny jeans" and if that's not proof that skinny jeans are absolutely, completely, definitively OVER I don't know what is
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby UnwashedMolasses » Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:38 pm

Also found these in Nordstrom Rak, by Marc Jacobs. Are these different enough to just be inspired by BW or are they rips?

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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Mon Dec 05, 2016 12:33 am

i shit on SLP as much as the next guy for being boring, derivative, overhyped etc. but i can appreciate how their clothes help straight dudes express their sexuality through their clothing, sure it's a very white/european variety of male sexuality but it's a step in the right direction at least

it feels like most of menswear has a serious fetish for utilitarianism (influences from workwear/militaria/athleticwear) and concealment through heavy layering so it's kinda cool to see otherwise unadventurous, "normal" straight dudes feel comfortable in drapey silk shirts, skintight jeans and pointy boots, especially since fashion as an expression of sexuality is almost a foreign concept in even the more esoteric sides of menswear
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby alby » Mon Dec 05, 2016 2:04 pm

@spaceman that is the SI x supreme hat (thermal sensitive version) they hat is nice. very big. it does not breathe at all, so it gets kind of smelly. the heat reactiveness is fun.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby teck » Mon Dec 05, 2016 2:50 pm

i can appreciate how their clothes help straight dudes express their sexuality through their clothing

interestingly this is how i felt about american apparel. I'd wear deeeeep v-neck tees, (do you guys remember that?), really revealing tank tops, and tight ass purple jeans. it felt somewhat empowering, in a hipster douche kind of way.

that said, i think maybe that's yet another arrow to sling against SLP, since "sexual" men's clothing has been around for a minute, so SLP isn't even doing that originally.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby adiabatic » Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:36 pm

http://dagny-hashtaggart.tumblr.com/pos ... e-this-guy

in my sophomore year of college this guy made these items which quickly became a craze across campus. i myself bought one of his sweaters, which says “GOOD AND DEAD” across the chest and “ARM PAIN” along the sleeves…
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby jujumaster » Tue Dec 06, 2016 1:41 pm

Fashion romanticising poverty? Is it some art shit I dont get? Or is it just not that deep?

anyway, was browsing Wales Bonner when I saw this, I suppose 'Stemmi' has a point when its a 700 quid track top and 500 quid trousers.

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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby teck » Tue Dec 06, 2016 2:17 pm

fashion constantly draws from the poor, marginalized, and underprivileged. see: hip hop, workwear, punk, skaters, starving artists
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby adiabatic » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:29 pm

jujumaster wrote:Is it some art shit I dont get? Or is it just not that deep?


From what I've seen there's a strong ethos among artists to try new things, and in particular, things that people don't think go well together (chocolate infused with hot-pepper oil). Super-spendy clothes worn by people who're way too poor to afford them strike me as one of those things some fraction of artists will try. I don't think it's deeper than that.

Of course, in my ignorance and not knowing where the clothes came from, I thought some kid in some dirt-poor foreign country had managed to score a well-preserved tracksuit from the 70s that must've been donated through Goodwill…
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby oucho » Wed Dec 07, 2016 9:23 am

it's from an editorial shot by harley weir who went and photographed the Calais migrant camp recently (not for a fashion shoot), I think all the guys in the shoot are wrestlers from Senegal. It's an editorial so it's not supposed to be a definitive representation of the brand, like a lookbook would be. It definitely feels like there is a strong drive for designers right now to be like: we're not part of the industry, we're outsiders, we're more like a subculture. The way vachement sold themselves as outsiders is a good example.

There's a short video of the wrestlers here: https://youtu.be/IEgcq5Jwz5Q
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby pirxthepilot » Wed Dec 07, 2016 10:39 am

makes no sense at all to discuss this in the context of 'art'. ('but but leni riefenstahl'... fuck off)
often seems every gap year kid/office drone i meet who has no obvious ability but nevertheless considers themselves 'creative' purely because they're seeking diversion from their boring life reckons they're a photographer. step 1. spend a couple of grand on idiot-proof camera. step 2. visit photogenic location, preferably india/s america/africa. 3. take competent picture of 'colourful' slum kids.
this type of editorial's just an extension of that bourgeoisified 'global image consumption culture' at this point and in that sense it's.. unremarkable?
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby Bartender » Wed Dec 07, 2016 11:44 am

Pirxthepilot walks into a gallery:

"I could do that," he thinks to himself.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby pirxthepilot » Wed Dec 07, 2016 12:22 pm

for sure, i could become a competent photographer in 2 weeks (max). so could you/anyone. technique is meaningless, you have to have.... an idea, for want of a better word.
that image is banal, from spending 30 seconds on google it seems her basic shtick is dreamy low saturation white kid pre raphaelite nonsense (highly commercial tho for obvious reasons), so i guess she deserves some praise for pointing her camera at a black person (yay!). but honestly if that is the kind of thing people are going to talk about as 'progressive', let alone in the context of 'art' then jfc
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby jujumaster » Wed Dec 07, 2016 12:30 pm

Oh yeah theres nothing that fashion loves more than a good lower class subculture, cant swing a cat without hitting a late 20th century punk reference. But then they are still western world subcultures and maybe a bit different to literally having some kid in a crumbly scene with dusty sandals and a grands worth of clothes, one of the reasons I brought it up was it being Harley Weir and Grace Wales Bonner who are entirely about pushing the progressive alternative. Though the video on the Senegalese wrestlers gives much more sense and context now.

Theres definitely something there with what you guys said about the ethos of striving to do new things and find new creativity but then if the quest for that comes at the cost of what might be a distasteful nature of your work whats the point. Fashion and Art world though, theres always a crowd out there who can come up with some deep, profound, spiritual mantra in a fucking lampshade init.

Anyway, Stemmi turned out to be a stylist for L'officiel Hommes http://christianstemmler.com/ some alright stuff there.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:33 am

pirxthepilot wrote:step 1. spend a couple of grand on idiot-proof camera. step 2. visit photogenic location, preferably india/s america/africa. 3. take competent picture of 'colourful' slum kids.

i agree with you but if you're gonna be that reductive then by that logic what james nachtwey does is hacky and not worthwhile, not all photography can be judged on the same metric

wasn't there an editorial that dressed east LA cholo kids in yohji some years back? cultural tourism is anything but new to fashion, with all the designers out there at least some of them are gonna get tired of photographing pretty white people. it's no excuse to exoticize poverty but still
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby bels » Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:36 am

but still what? Not sure pirx is taking potshots at the entire medium of photography (though surely it deserves some shots at this point) but rather saying that this photo/editorial is boring and not a part of an "art" context more part of a "rich guy" context, which you seem to agree with. So what is the but still for?

[James Nachtway is probably not part of an art context either but I don't see how he's relevant to this conversation (don't see how leni riefenstahl is either for the record)]
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby ramseames » Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:55 am

For someone who's so renowned for their photography Weir's instagram looks a lot like any other crappy art student taking intentionally "bad" (read: zoomed in/faux edgy) pictures

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKadBclgfGO/?hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/p/BCKuGe_Adin/?hl=en

Maybe a weird angle to look at it at from but I feel like a big part of whether or not there are moral issues with the gwb shoot lie in how much she paid that kid (I imagine it wasn't a lot)
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby freddy » Thu Dec 08, 2016 11:56 am

How do you get toothpaste out of suede?
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby blanket » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:06 pm

u, an outsider, are only allowed into the art/fashion world because i have framed you and flattened u for easy consumption and because u are dressed as i please for our taste.
ur taste doesn't matter, only mine. with my skill i have chosen u and i have chosen what to frame and i have chosen this moment in time, what is best fitting for u to wear and do according to my taste.
i will allow u some choices because it is more Authentic and that makes for a better story.
u r not allowed into the art/fashion world as a person. u r allowed into it as an object (for entertainment, for viewing pleasure, for admiration, to inspire contemplation on Human Nature).
ur life is material for a story for me 2 tell, a sentence or a short video that adds a dash of spice to a photograph among many.

as soon as i am done with u, u as a person do not matter.
the photograph i have constructed is a vessel for my taste and skill.
it is pleasant to think about wot a good person i am, givin voice to the voiceless.

----

a big difference between this and photography with documentary goals (e.g. nachtwey the photojournalist) is that culture and the events and the people here are reduced to just props, mere stage background to add pepper to the real subject.
in the same way, the photographer in pirx's comment reduces the people and things they photograph to pictures to share within their groups, props in their life to show how Cultured and Open-Minded they are.
like most things, lots of issues and problems and noble aims are tangled up an barely anything is wholly good or wholly bad.

even in photojournalism or social documentary kinda photography that strives towards objectivity and recording things "as they are," photographers bring their own biases to the table. their understanding of things "as they are" may be very different from that of the people on the other end of the camera.
i feel like the problem is not only exploitation but that the view of the person with more power is accepted as the Objective or Tasteful view.

i think i enjoyed the video attached to this editorial but i don't think i-d in general (or the wider fashion world for that matter) is very good at framing cultural differences or Other groups.
for example this video, where it felt like attempts to understand south korean culture were very superficial and where The Foreign Culture is presented as oppressive and antagonistic. the video felt like half an hour of patting the host's back on how progressive an free an etc. her values are.
looking at their videos about Other Folks feels like opening a cabinet of curios.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby pirxthepilot » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:17 pm

incidentally do we know for sure that guy is not a professional male module? could be he getting unlimited £££/coke/blowjobs like my boy @oucho
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby jujumaster » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:31 pm

maybe im just salty about the fact ive got no mates at CSM to help forge a career despite my obvious lack of talent and need to google references like 'pre-raphaelite'
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby pirxthepilot » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:32 pm

also, since people have brought up nachtwey, i'd say i'm certainly glad that model of journalism(white guy goes to scene of conflict/famine, takes unavoidably stylised pictures of other peoples' lives, moves on) is theoretically at least in decline.
to give an example of an alternative model, in aleppo until very recently zaina erhaim was training women to use the internet and become citizen journalists (the men, for cultural reasons, are fighting or being part of the rescue services). i commissioned a little piece from her as part of that thing i did in summer, if you scroll to the bottom and watch the film footage it's incredibly poignant in light of where things are at now. also, zaina is a self-taught film maker, which i think reinforces the point i made earlier.
https://medium.com/not-evenly-distribut ... .ardt63rcn
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby oucho » Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:24 pm

I quit modelling, but I was never receiving unlimited £ or coke, as for the blow jobs, well... ;) ;) ;)

Fashion editorial is normally unpaid so they may not have been paid anything! Seeing as we are slagging off photographers I'm curious as to what people think of Nick Knight? A lot of his work reminds me of the kind of digital art that was popular in the tagging scene a while back: gimmicky photomanipulations and what we used to call texture spam.

It even looks like he is using the smudge tool and splatter brushes in these: http://nickknight.com/site/assets/files ... 803-kb.jpg http://nickknight.com/site/assets/files ... 1100x0.jpg + gradient and soft brushing background

this looks like a bad pentool illustration, this is such a digital art cliché, so is this, and this looks like it comes straight from behance. Then I saw this and I was actually wondering if he's doing this stuff as a kind of re-perspective-ing of lame internet art, but I don't think so, and that's a bad idea anyway. Nick Knight is literally a low mod tagger who made it big

hello wind filter
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby bels » Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:38 pm

I could believe in him ripping off digital art as a narrative. I feel like the corporate/art world has been making it's move on internet bohemias for a while now. Look out for some really great "interactive digital art" pieces that are remakes of nidhogg or johan sebastian joust and someone managing to make "memes as art" in the near future.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby pirxthepilot » Thu Dec 08, 2016 2:15 pm

re nick knight, he made it big long before the digital era didn't he? presumably now hes trying to embrace technology but has no real idea how. the problem is at a certain level of success everything around you is a self-supporting ecosystem and nobody subjects you to any critique at all.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby jujumaster » Thu Dec 08, 2016 2:41 pm

if youve got no creativity, but live in the ends, you can always do point and shoots of local grime MCs

Spoiler:
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby Lorcan » Thu Dec 08, 2016 3:27 pm

Pretty sure Knight's pics from the late 80s for the Yohji catalogues were already using v primitive pre-photoshop digital manipulation, so its always been his thing? I like the old Yohji images, but not much of what he's done since.
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby finolino » Thu Dec 08, 2016 3:39 pm

seeing that kid from stranger things as a jw anderson model cracks me up every time
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