Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby ramseames » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:37 pm

http://www.racked.com/2016/2/17/1102420 ... e-bloggers

in which a racked writer thought "let's tell this person they don't act asian enough, and why that's bad", was a good idea for an article

found a cached version but i'll quote it here in case the link ceases to work in the future.

Spoiler:
Back in 2000, practically the only reason you’d hear about Asians in the fashion industry was that someone was talking about sweatshops. The island of Saipan, where Nike’s and Gap’s low-wage factories were situated then, was all over the news, as were garment workers in Los Angeles, the home of Forever 21.

In fact, the first story I ever wrote about Asians and fashion concerned sweatshops. Sweatshops were a Big Deal at colleges like UC Berkeley in the late 1990s. It was common for people in my circles, in the thick of the Asian American activist scene, to casually mention that they were boycotting these brands; it was basically assumed that if you were in the know about sweatshops, you wouldn't support the companies using them with your business. It was social death to wear a sweatshirt with the GAP logo emblazoned across one's chest.

The only other time I can remember that Asians were ever discussed in the realm of fashion was when Abercrombie & Fitch issued an offensive tee shirt, after which it became verboten among my crowd to wear any A&F. (I remember furtively ripping out the label of a particularly beloved pair of flared khakis as a concession.)

Fast forward to 2007. Asian fashion designers were hot: Doo-Ri Chung, Derek Lam, Phillip Lim, Thakoon Panichgul, Peter Som. It was an undeniable Asian Fashion Moment. And then came the boy wonder Alexander Wang, all cheekbones and long hair.


That was also the year I became preoccupied with a year-old fashion blog called Style Bubble, run by the British-born Chinese Susanna Lau. I was drawn to her mix of fantastical yet practical styling (she was a fan of the practical brogue and other walking-friendly shoes, for example), her frank voice (she wrote about not getting the appeal of Victoria's Secret, and gently mocked her own appearance in Gap's 2010 Holiday ad campaign), and her taste (she frequently championed under-the-radar British designers).

And I wasn't the only one. By 2010 her blog drew some 30,000 visitors per day, with the New York Times proclaiming that Lau had reached "cultlike status among designers, stylists, and legions of civilians who dote on her quirky enthusiasms."

As an American-born Chinese woman myself, I felt a particular affinity with her. She felt approachable and relatable, unlike the pioneering Asian designers and models with whom I was familiar: The stern, colorless gravitas of Vera Wang or Jenny Shimizu or even the '60s-London boho jizz of Anna Sui didn't resonate with me. Lau's zany mix of colors, prints, and textures, not to mention her expert blending of high fashion and high street, made her an exuberant alternative to an often staid and staggeringly white world of fashion.

But almost a decade later, I'm ready to admit what until now has been an unspoken truth: My fangirl-affection for Susie Bubble has popped.

I have a tiny bit of history with Lau. I interviewed her for Audrey, a now-defunct Asian American women's magazine, in 2007. I had pitched a story in which I would get her thoughts on race and fashion, but when I got in touch with her through email, she admitted to being uncomfortable with the idea of analyzing what she did from an Asian perspective. "I don't really label myself as this ‘Chinese' blogger," she told me. "I'm just a blogger who happens to be Chinese."


In a new book about Asian style bloggers called Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet, Minh-Ha T. Pham, an assistant professor of media studies at Pratt Institute, discusses this racial ambivalence, pointing out that Lau's sartorial and posing style stems from "her racial ambivalence about her face and especially her eyes." In the blog's early days, Lau would partially obscure her features by looking away (Pham calls this the "elsewhere gaze"), obscuring, or even crossing out her face.

Similarly, Pham notes that Lau typically won't be caught in traditionally Asian clothes, such as a qipao or kimono. Writing about chinoiserie trends in 2011, Lau said she worried she would look too much "like a waitress in a dodgy restaurant or a roleplay actor in a theme park." It's as though any hint of "typical" Asianness would compromise the singular distinctiveness on which she has built her brand. Yet she has also admitted to being influenced by street style in Hong Kong, where "girls only dress to please themselves." Apparently, she wants to be associated with the "cool," but not traditional, aspects of Hong Kong.

These examples of racial ambivalence and distancing are an integral part of the image projected by Asian superbloggers, as Pham calls them. Beside Lau, her list includes Bryanboy, Rumi Neely's Fashion Toast, and Aimee Song's Song of Style. She argues that these bloggers, whose impact on fashion has been immense —€” together, they have millions of followers, and products they spotlight often sell out before the day is over —€” have been successful in part because of how they broadcast their racial identities. By making their "Asianness" appear distinctive but not radically different, Pham writes, they present themselves as "exotic but not foreign" commodities. Their Asianness is essentially non-threatening to a white audience: Hey, I look different, but don't worry, I wouldn't eat stinky tofu or chicken feet.

Looking back, I can see that Lau wanted to have it both ways: She wanted to be a different voice and have a different look, but she didn't want to admit, loudly and proudly, that her race was part of that difference.

The racial distancing that Lau and other high-profile Asian style bloggers have typically employed feels out of step with today's world. For one, Asians are everywhere you look in fashion, even if the industry is still largely white. They're behind the scenes at major design houses; they dominate U.S. fashion schools (comprising almost a quarter of students at the Fashion Institute of Technology); they are on the mastheads of important fashion magazines; and they appear on runways and in big ad campaigns.

On social media, I'm excited to see models like Liu Wen, who has been featured in Gap and J.Crew campaigns, Fei Fei Sun, the first Asian model to grace the cover of Italian Vogue solo (and what a stunner it was!), and Xiao Wen Ju, the newest face of L'Oréal Paris. Being of Filipino heritage as well, I'm also super into up-and-coming Filipino models like Paolo Roldan and Marga Esquivel. Filipino fashion models! What a world.

When it comes to representation, we've come a long way. But it's time to get beyond that. The dialogue about race in America has changed, particularly in the last few years. These days, we see stars like Amandla Stenberg taking a stand against cultural appropriation. We see models of color addressing racial bias backstage, from Brandee Brown speaking out about stylists who don't know how to work with black hair like hers, to Nykhor Paul, who is Sudanese, posting on Instagram about needing to bring her own makeup to shows.

Instagram really does have a lot to do with these changes. It has brought models and style stars down to earth, taking us backstage and into their lives off the runway. But that also means that our interest in them has gotten deeper. We're not just interested in style, we also want to see them wade into issues of visual and racial identity.


It's not that over the years, Susie Bubble hasn't addressed race at all. She applauded the Fall 2006 Miu Miu ads featuring Asian celebrities and posted her response to a comment by a non-Asian friend that she had more leeway to wear outrageous things because she was Asian (the idea presumably being that Japanese and Hong Kong street style can be more outré than that of Paris or Milan). Of late, she has written about Chinese garment workers in Dongguan, China, though Pham thinks Lau's interest is "not so much connected with creating or promoting racial solidarities but more with the larger fashion industry's interest in sustainable processes of fashion production."

We need more. Some people in the style spotlight, such as Lucky magazine ex-editor-in-chief Eva Chen, are embracing their racial identity more actively: Chen speaks at Asian American community events and posts Instagram photos of her daughter clutching her good-luck lai see in an adorable Chinese New Year outfit. Admittedly, this is small potatoes in the race dialogue. What I really want is for more Asian style luminaries to speak out about the often thorny issues of race in fashion, criticizing rampant cultural appropriation in fashion or people of color being used as multicultural scenery, window dressing, or spectacle.

And that's where bloggers like Lau and Bryanboy fall flat to me, why I think we've outgrown them. It's not just that these former outsiders have been subsumed by the mainstream fashion industry, or that Google Reader's demise in 2013 took Style Bubble out of my daily reading rotation. Rather, it's because it's time for Asian bloggers and style stars who don't just dress distinctively but are also comfortable in their own skin, and with the features on their face. I want someone who, like Beyoncé, is proud of her "negro nose with Jackson Five nostrils." Unlike Bryanboy, who Pham writes "has expressed the desire for racially implicated plastic surgery: ‘I really need to get a fuckin nose job and chin implant soon.'" Or Lau, who as recently as last year mentioned using the FaceTune app to pinch in her cheeks "to get rid of my Chinese ‘moon' face."

Such comments are startling to me. And as Pham told me, they're proof that these so-called influential style bloggers "have done little to transform the racial standards of beauty that still pervade fashion culture." I'm still waiting for someone who can capture, articulate, and celebrate the complexities of being an Asian face in a majority-white industry. Somebody who doesn't just happen to be Asian, but for whom being Asian is an integral and proud part of their identity and brand. And, as much as I once loved her, I don't think it'll be Susie Bubble.

Lisa Wong Macabasco is a writer and editor in New York City.

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby teck » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:58 pm

oh hey i know that writer.

looks like the piece got taken down. im kind of surprised. i thought it was a valid point, although maybe targeting one person wasn't a good approach?

i've encountered some racial ambivalence also while talking to some designers/writers. i once had someone get really upset that i even brought up the subject, even though it was the whole point in us talking in the first place.

**edit: just fyi i don't want to get into a whole thing about it. peace homies piece!
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby hirokinakamura » Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:38 pm

as a sidenote i once sold a sheepskin coat and an ma-1 to paolo roldan. there was a moment where i mistakenly confused him for errolson hugh and he told me he'd done modelling work for acronym. that was cool. even gave me his email, told me to hit him up if i was ever in fake canada. that was probably the only good part about working at the real mccoy's, getting to meet famous people.

anyway, it's just cool to see him blowing up, doing dope shit.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby adiabatic » Thu Feb 25, 2016 1:54 am

It's the Shanghai Major in Dotaland!

I don't know if I should feel bad for hating James' tie and/or sweater.

Spoiler:
Image


Update, a few days later: Guess I won't have to see it anymore.
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Last edited by adiabatic on Sat Feb 27, 2016 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby harmsalmon » Thu Feb 25, 2016 1:04 pm

dude just walked into my Anthro of Japan class wearing Barbour x WM..... shame it's the tree camo and not the wave print but i suppose i'll still excitedly approach him once class is over......
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby yourdad » Fri Feb 26, 2016 12:29 am

@harmsalmon so did you approach him? I need to know
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby Julio » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:34 am

^the old sufu joke would probably be "did u bang doe"

that aside i was looking at wm x barbour the other day on end and the new season stuff is quite cute

also: all i've been wearing are these cropped drop crotch pleated trousers i thrifted
and now i want more pleated trousers
and white af1s

and a coach jacket

quitting the game is a lie
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby odradek » Fri Feb 26, 2016 11:47 am

latepass but as a dude named daniel who hangs out at the pool and wears white vans all the time, nobody i know is keyed in enough to have said 'damn daniel' to me, nor have they noticed that i'm back at it again with the white vans.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby posh_somme » Fri Feb 26, 2016 12:09 pm

im probably really late on this but these outlier photos are on another level

Image

(story continued in spoilers)

Spoiler:
Image

Image

Image


http://shop.outlier.cc/shop/retail/slim-dungarees.html
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby jujumaster » Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:18 pm

Adverts like this make me think, who are these people who buy current season pieces and stick them straight up for sale on Grailed? I mean the advert even says it was only bought last week, cant you just return it like normal people do?

https://www.grailed.com/listings/454304 ... work-Shirt
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby ASTROCHIMP » Fri Feb 26, 2016 7:43 pm

Right so as he mentioned earlier I was the guinea pig for the @trasparenti Mystery Fun Present™. Anyways I had gotten a refund on a an item so I had $60 sitting in my PayPal and saw his post about his Mystery Fun Present™ I figured I should jump on the opportunity as there are a bunch of Japanese brands that I love. We discussed a bunch of stuff about what types of brands I was interested in and what types of items I would want. I didn't really want anything besides stuff like some light jackets and shirts since I'm rather picky with what pants I buy. But as we continued to discuss things I showed some interest in some baggy pants as its on my list of things to purchase. Well I got my package today and I couldn't be more happy it was definitely worth the money. In my package I got a couple different tee's from different brands, two jackets and a pair of pants(also some candy and a very nice note).Here's an album of everything that I got and the package, it was quite large and I can see why shipping was as much as it was but seeing how much I got and how difficult it would be to find some of the stuff here in the US made it worth it to me. Some of the pictures ended up upside down somehow but that's alright I think since you can mostly make out what's in there. I now have a small collection of Neighborhood as well from all he sent me and a BDU jacket I got in today too.



@trasparenti also proxied me a North Face Purple Label Daypack and is also helping me out by keeping an eye out for a WTAPS BDU jacket for a decent price. So his helpfulness is amazing. This post feels like I'm shilling a little bit but it was such a great experience and I'm super happy with everything and will most likely be doing this again in the future when I replenish some funds.

Edit. I will answer all questions about it that I can as well.
@weqe yep everything for $60 plus shipping.
@TheLouisVuittonPawn Get in touch with trasparenti I believe he will be setting up a thread soonish with more info on everything.

List of Everything I got:
Spoiler:
Undercoverism Denim Jacket
Undercover Bear Tee
Undercover Flag Tee
Bape Tee
Neighborhood Jacket
Neighborhood Tee
Lad Musician Tee
American Rag CIE Pants
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Last edited by ASTROCHIMP on Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby bels » Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:00 pm

How can you get all of that for 60 dollars? What the fuck is Japan.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby hirokinakamura » Sat Feb 27, 2016 12:53 am

...

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby RomanEmpire » Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:19 am

How do people even find stuff on Grailed, browsing it is so tedious
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby trasparenti » Sat Feb 27, 2016 6:21 am

ASTROCHIMP wrote:Right so as he mentioned earlier I was the guinea pig for the @trasparenti Mystery Fun Present™.

Dang son, I'm surprised it got to you so fast. Super stoked that it got there safe and sound! Thanks a lot for your patience. It's worth mentioning that shipping on this package ended up being more expensive than I initially believed it would be but @ASTROCHIMP was super patient and considerate. I've since figured out how to get the price down and the North Face Purple Label daypack I just sent out Thursday was much more reasonably priced to ship. For what it's worth, I'm making it up to you - I didn't send only a daypack ;-)

bels wrote:How can you get all of that for 60 dollars? What the fuck is Japan.

Cuz I put in W O R K when I'm lookin for stuff! I really enjoy deal-hunting so it's fun times. The sick deals are there, ya just gotta be willing to put in legwork and time for them. Everything besides the Neighborhood coat was about $60 total. The jacket put me over the budget but it was so reasonably priced and I know my boy is into that NBHD lyfe so I put up a little bit of my own money. But seriously tho, that coat is really cool - packable hood, quilted lining, tons of zips, etc. Definitely worth the price.

Regarding the Mystery Fun Pack - From Japan!™, I'm down to do it for anyone. I'm not looking to make money off of it or anything, I just want more people to enjoy the sikk deals Japan has to offer. As long as you cover shipping and clothes costs, that's all I want. I'll set up a proper thread for planning this out this week. The basic set up I'm looking to do is have you can PM me some ideas of what you want, we'll work a plan out, and I go hunting for your loot. Simple and e-z. Fun for me, profitable for U

Shout out to Germinal for the initial idea and Iliam for being the first person to contact me. I'm still waiting on two issues of Purple, then I'll figure out how to send the lot your way.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby ramseames » Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:49 pm

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby stappard_ » Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:55 pm

HRH Patrick Grant's not-for-profit made in england clothing line has surfaced on kickstarter

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby maj » Sun Feb 28, 2016 8:09 pm

this is really sick but "cutting out the middle man" in any form makes me cringe after seeing too many american techbros looking 2 disrupt the fashion industry.

mac and harrington look banging for the ££££££££££ if patrick isn't lying to me
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby oucho » Sun Feb 28, 2016 8:27 pm

I heard about this project a while ago and I'm pretty sure it's legit. The straight fit jeans look like they might be the same as the e tautz pair I have, which are pretty nice. It does basically look like the ultra boring/dadcore side of patrick grant though. Even if it's good value for money it's hard to get excited about a standard fit navy mac.Still cool though
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby dbcooper » Mon Feb 29, 2016 3:54 pm

David casavant the dude with the raf and helmut stuff has a piece up on vogue hommes, dude seems so boring the answers are stale
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby ASTROCHIMP » Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:24 pm

dbcooper wrote:David casavant the dude with the raf and helmut stuff has a piece up on vogue hommes, dude seems so boring the answers are stale

A good 4 or 5 pages were him just saying that the camo bomber was worth a lot. This video really confused me since he's just wearing a Fox t-shirt as he shows off his collection.

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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby bels » Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:32 pm

stappard_ wrote:HRH Patrick Grant's not-for-profit made in england clothing line has surfaced on kickstarter



Would buy it all if I didn't already own it all
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby bels » Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:37 pm

Wait a second he said the harrington is waterproof? Is it coated cotton or some kind of knock off ventile? Either way £80 is a fucking steal for a harrington with some kind of water resistance.

(This message brought to you by bela "harrington lolita" bartok)
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby pirxthepilot » Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:14 pm

friend came to visit the other day wearing a vexed generation parka i gave him in... 2002? despite hard and continuous wear (i think it's his only coat, and he has a young son) the thing still looks really good. nobody gonna be saying that about paul harnden in 13 years i guarantee it.
he lives in brighton and apparently the woman who ran vexed also moved there after quitting the game, she approached him once and said it was nice to see her clothes still being worn.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby bels » Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:20 pm

Did she really quit the game? I spend some time wondering what the vexed designers are doing now. I assumed "consulting" for some ludicrous fee.

I thought Vexed Generation was two male designers (Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter)... wait a second.. Adam And Joe????




why did you give away a vexed generation parka to someone anyway.

Also why did you pick paul harnden as your fall guy.

Also your friend ill? People with children often carry a lot of sickness, maybe that's why you're ill now.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby hirokinakamura » Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:31 am

i hate it when people send you offers on grailed and then you accept the offer and then they don't fucking pay
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby RomanEmpire » Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:19 pm

Was too busy doing homework so I forgot about the Uniqlo x Lemaire drop and the yellow/white short sleeve shirt sold out :sad:

Picked up the green/white one instead
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby thecanadiancook » Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:07 am

hirokinakamura wrote:i hate it when people send you offers on grailed and then you accept the offer and then they don't fucking pay

or this shit
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby trasparenti » Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:10 am

here's the link to that blog i was photographed for. he added a few more pictures and i feel like a real cool dude.

http://unevenbata.blogspot.jp/2016_03_01_archive.html


for what it's worth I've completely cut back on my Grailed usage since I left America. The selection isn't bad but that offer mechanic killed me. If I had a dollar for every unpaid offer I received, I'd never have to sell anything ever again.
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Re: random fashion thoughts

Postby ramseames » Fri Mar 04, 2016 4:46 pm

http://www.inventorymagazine.com/update ... -2016.html

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After seven years, we’ve decided to stop publishing Inventory. We’re extremely grateful to everyone that has supported the magazine by advertising with us or selling it in their stores; to those of you that have purchased a copy; and to the people and brands that have helped to bring our pages to life over the course of thirteen issues.

Making this magazine has been such a valuable experience. The lessons learned, knowledge gained, and relationships cemented could never be replaced, and it’s a journey that I’ll remember forever. Due to the content and the people involved, it’s been a very personal project from the start, and I have to say the biggest thank you to my colleagues along the way. I want to acknowledge the pivotal work of Simon Roe from the beginning to the very end, as well as the roles played by Philip Watts and Owen Parrott, Stephen Mann and Anthony Hooper, Matthew Klassen and Chris Allen. Without your dedication Inventory would not have reached the same heights.

I look back on the legacy of what we’ve created with awe and pride, but the publishing landscape has shifted and it feels like the right time to move on, to conclude things with arguably our best issue, and pursue new challenges and opportunities.

Sincerely,
Ryan Willms
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