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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:47 pm

thecanadiancook wrote:
ramseames wrote:http://vestoj.com/the-revolution-will-be-branded-vetements/

speaking of vachement:
The Vetememes "Parody" Raincoat Might Lead to a Lawsuit
http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/that- ... be-illegal

@mother hope u beat the case lol

Spoiler:
in all seriousness there really isn't a case, margiela and slp didn't start shit when those "fashion parody" tees (gross) were popular
i'd like to see demna explain how basic 4xl raincoats are his brand's intellectual property while he's blatantly ripping the dhl logo
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby ramdomthought » Tue Mar 29, 2016 11:34 pm

What is the story of those clothes @odradek
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby jujumaster » Wed Mar 30, 2016 12:47 pm

CheerUpBrokeBoy wrote:i'd like to see demna explain how basic 4xl raincoats are his brand's intellectual property while he's blatantly ripping the dhl logo


Apparently they have permission to use those Logos.

I wonder if Virgil Abloh has the OK from Royal Mail too?
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby bels » Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:12 pm

Is the vachement backlash similar to the rick owens backlash (and probably a lot of fashion backlashes) of a few years ago but accelerated?

"I love it it's aesthetic and cool wait nouveau riche people have started using it as a status item I don't like it it sucks."
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby BIGBEE » Wed Mar 30, 2016 2:01 pm

at least rick has original ideas
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby ASTROCHIMP » Wed Mar 30, 2016 3:18 pm

Grailed has a blog now I guess. https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby thecanadiancook » Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:10 pm

They probably could have picked a better name than Dry Clean Only.

Basically it seems to be an editorial section with links to relevant items being sold, I guess, to drive sales now that they are charging a fee. Categories include Number (n)ine, "street style", 11 by BBS, Sneakers, Supreme, and Raf Simons. So pretty much all categories associated with big ticket items.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby thecanadiancook » Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:14 pm

Grailed also started producing some bic lighters with "Archive Raf" logos :???:
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby teck » Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:43 pm

Yes im glad people are talking about the grailed blog/content platform thing.

As a content/editorial nerd i love this thing but I feel that the content idea of blogging is going away or at least evolving. It's all moved to snapsplaining and stuff. I was sad and smug when Gilt men's blog ate shit.

What do people think?
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby bels » Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:53 pm

Please help me God show me what snapsplaining is I am a humble man
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby Copeland » Wed Mar 30, 2016 5:21 pm

That vachement article could've just as well been about early Raf. The only difference is Raf is considered a better designer. The exploitation of youth/street culture occurs wherever art meets commercialism: rock, fine arts, etc. The article is right that there's nothing groundbreaking going on, but there's also nothing "inauthentic" about what vachement is doing. People who wear engineered garments are paying a lot of money to dress like woodsmen. People who wear leather jackets are paying a lot of money to dress like they ride bikes. The criticism is even more conservative in vachement's case since the author automatically assumes the label's customers aren't the cool people themselves but a conspiring bourgeoisie looking to draw from the blood of its young.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby teck » Wed Mar 30, 2016 8:45 pm

Probably the most revolutionary thing that vachement (this discussion is worth it in just learning how to spell this polemical designer) is that it is drawing flintstone not from some categorically marginalized group (woodsmen, blue collar workers, punk rockers, janitors, urban Black Americans) but from the ranks of those who are already inside the creative circle (the normcore kids, the street style starlets, the art downtown scenesters*). it's like narcissus saw himself in the water and was like "yo dude where'd you get that hoodie, bruv?". Finally, fashion has become inspired by itself, which is a tickling thought.

sorry if this doesn't make sense i had an IPA earlier.

*you could argue that the artsy kids are themselves outsiders in a way, but at least they're explicitly aware of their own creativity and are in the creative class, unlike say an inspirational fisherman.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby une_impasse » Wed Mar 30, 2016 9:29 pm

teck wrote:Probably the most revolutionary thing that vachement (this discussion is worth it in just learning how to spell this polemical designer) is that it is drawing flintstone not from some categorically marginalized group (woodsmen, blue collar workers, punk rockers, janitors, urban Black Americans) but from the ranks of those who are already inside the creative circle (the normcore kids, the street style starlets, the art downtown scenesters*). it's like narcissus saw himself in the water and was like "yo dude where'd you get that hoodie, bruv?". Finally, fashion has become inspired by itself, which is a tickling thought.

sorry if this doesn't make sense i had an IPA earlier.

*you could argue that the artsy kids are themselves outsiders in a way, but at least they're explicitly aware of their own creativity and are in the creative class, unlike say an inspirational fisherman.


1. tell us what you drank!! the people need answers!!

2. yeah, i feel this article makes it plainly clear vachement knows it's not pushing boundaries or doing anything particularly revolutionary, it's taking an already tapped resource and finding a way to make it cool again. This article gets the joke that seems to be enraging their critics in my opinion, Demna worked for Margiela and Louis Vuitton, too very different companies with very different creative directors, but still under major luxury conglomerates, and yeah, they know the prices are ridiculous. They're not pretending to be outsiders, and even outsiders are still part of the conversation, no comment is still a comment.
(Also, the fall vachement line sheets have muuuuch higher price points and costs than Balenciaga for what it's worth)

There's some fashion tv show or movie (maybe Project Runway) that addressed that designers send down insane contraptions or outfits on the runway but take their bows in a black t shirt and jeans, and maybe looking to them for style flintstone is a bit more realistic. I feel vachement is doing that, taking what they would probably wear for their bows/daily lives/goofing-off-hours and presenting it in a sort of exaggerated backwards runway show.

And MAYBE vachement sucks or MAYBE it doesn't but please tell me of any other designer remotely as interesting to talk about at the moment (I can probably name about four or five I would waste my breath on) so let us all praise whomever we have something to talk about.

edit: also while i'm here, i have a vachement raincoat as well as a goofy generic valet parking raincoat in a similar vein. i would love to do a side by side to show what makes vachement click for me. i didn't mention this previously, but if you get the chance to see or feel vachement in person, it starts to make a little more sense.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby alby » Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:33 pm

Not to derail the topic, but tomorrow my group Cellars will be releasing their second shirt. I've learned a few things already from this shirt.

1). We need to print more shirts.
2). We need to print more smalls (I am sorry to anybody who wanted a small we are out before we even throw them online :()
3). Lots of colors = lots more moneys.

The remaining shirts (mediums and larges) release tomorrow at 10:30 AM CST. Would love to see any of you guys support it, I love seeing people wearing the shirts (smiling) cheers.

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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby BIGBEE » Wed Mar 30, 2016 11:28 pm

teck wrote:Probably the most revolutionary thing that vachement (this discussion is worth it in just learning how to spell this polemical designer) is that it is drawing flintstone not from some categorically marginalized group (woodsmen, blue collar workers, punk rockers, janitors, urban Black Americans) but from the ranks of those who are already inside the creative circle (the normcore kids, the street style starlets, the art downtown scenesters*). it's like narcissus saw himself in the water and was like "yo dude where'd you get that hoodie, bruv?". Finally, fashion has become inspired by itself, which is a tickling thought.

sorry if this doesn't make sense i had an IPA earlier.

*you could argue that the artsy kids are themselves outsiders in a way, but at least they're explicitly aware of their own creativity and are in the creative class, unlike say an inspirational fisherman.



remember when kanye did that fashion referencing itself thing and everyone hated it
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby BIGBEE » Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:15 am

666 topics

sick
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby Eddie » Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:47 am

teck wrote:Yes im glad people are talking about the grailed blog/content platform thing.

As a content/editorial nerd i love this thing but I feel that the content idea of blogging is going away or at least evolving. It's all moved to snapsplaining and stuff. I was sad and smug when Gilt men's blog ate shit.

What do people think?

Seems like most of the content grailed puts out is just to drive sales with a generous slant towards sellers affiliated with the website itself
That and the content is mostly just mining existing demand/tastes established by internet fashion forums in the late 00s/early 10s without really contributing anything of value. No hate to the individuals working there, the organization just seems kind of lazy..

In terms of content, what was formerly one of my favorite blogs, jamesrmcnally, went down for real recently. The last post on the website published significantly before that:
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby trasparenti » Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:33 am

Eddie wrote:In terms of content, what was formerly one of my favorite blogs, jamesrmcnally, went down for real recently. The last post on the website published significantly before that:
Image


ah that's terrible. I loved James' blog. Regardless of the lack of updates for the past few years, the content was incredible. Definitely more than a few gems saved from that site. RIP
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby teck » Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:43 am

i once lost a job because i got into an argument about the nature of the internet, and how people use it. roughly:

web 1.0 - the beginning, not a lot of creators, a lot of users as consumers of information ("surfing" the web a la Sandra Bullock in "The Net")
web 2.0 - user-generated content (blogs, etc) become paramount.
Nowish - this user-generated content is now organized into either social media feeds (instagram) or into platforms dedicated to certain subjects (wikipedia, editorial websites). it's why i wonder what will happen to blogs, because people don't open up browsers and individually check out blogs, so much as access just a few apps (instagram, fb messenger) and experience the web through said platforms.
Soonish - the internet gets really good at delivering up content into UX interfaces that don't require a lot of browsing, if any.
Later - skynet.

its part of why i like CT -- it's just good old clunky people talking to each other.

I could be totally wrong with the above fyi. just from an editorial perspective, i know it takes so much energy to create and manage content (and there's so much competition) that i wonder if it's still a worthwhile strategy anymore, esp for a site like grailed.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby oucho » Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:47 pm

teck wrote:i once lost a job because i got into an argument about the nature of the internet, and how people use it. roughly:

web 1.0 - the beginning, not a lot of creators, a lot of users as consumers of information ("surfing" the web a la Sandra Bullock in "The Net")
web 2.0 - user-generated content (blogs, etc) become paramount.
Nowish - this user-generated content is now organized into either social media feeds (instagram) or into platforms dedicated to certain subjects (wikipedia, editorial websites). it's why i wonder what will happen to blogs, because people don't open up browsers and individually check out blogs, so much as access just a few apps (instagram, fb messenger) and experience the web through said platforms.
Soonish - the internet gets really good at delivering up content into UX interfaces that don't require a lot of browsing, if any.
Later - skynet.

its part of why i like CT -- it's just good old clunky people talking to each other.

I could be totally wrong with the above fyi. just from an editorial perspective, i know it takes so much energy to create and manage content (and there's so much competition) that i wonder if it's still a worthwhile strategy anymore, esp for a site like grailed.

I think it's interesting, and a little sad, to see how the internet has evolved over the last 10 or so years. I agree with what you're saying about the death of user generated content and the growth and assimilation of users through mega-sites like Reddit/Instagram.

I think the internet forum is a really great thing, and I am sad that they seem to have largely died out, and glad that care-tags is going strong. I remember in 07 (and probably for some time before) there were a load of popular forums around, mainly it was people discussing videogames and naruto but there were also a lot of people on these forums making/learning about all sorts of things, like programming, web coding, animation, design, and forums fully dedicated to these things too. I really enjoyed this at the time and looking back I think it was really super great. This doesn't seem to happen any more and I blame the mega-sites.

All of the mega-sites seem to be more or less based around what you could call a 'content' system. Which is a system where you can post content and where people can comment on content, the content is the most important thing on the site (think of the Facebook wall/Instagram stream) and comments are secondary.

Because these systems all give some kind of numerical value to content this encourages people to make content that gets high numerical rankings. Even on internet forums that never operated with numerical systems it's easy to see that there are a lot of content generators who are too interested in pandering to the community. So in a system where your content can be ranked numerically, and higher numerical rankings can increase your exposure, the lure of approval becomes extremely strong, and posting content that doesn't get approval seems pointless, as it is directly compared to work that does. This forms a kind of capitalistic approval system where new content gets lost and users lose the feeling that they are an individual with their own voice. They are encouraged to consume content rather than create it, and to be a commenter rather than a creator.

I feel that there are several general attributes of forums that differ from this (obviously each forum is different). Forums were a lot smaller, even huge forums were not as big as reddstagrambook. Automatically this made any user a more important and heard member of the community, to a certain extent. This also meant that there was less reward for making crowd pleasing content, as it couldn't scale as much, which also meant that money didn't get involved. There was much less of a difference between popular and less popular content, which was more encouraging to users who wanted to make content that wasn't necessarily in line with what was in vogue on that particular forum at that particular time. Alongside this there was a culture of a bunch of people making stuff, and teaching other, part of the point of these forums was to learn and teach each other. Although the critique was often extremely harsh!

The forum layout also gives more emphasis on the individual and is created for discussion rather than content consumption. Users on a forum have a username, avatar and signature, no other site has as much potential for expression. On a forum these can also be BIG whilst avatars on Instagram and Facebook are very small and Reddit has none I think? I have noticed that people can project personalities on forums and I find this doesn't happen on mega-sites. Communication on the internet is a very specific thing, it's very interesting to see how forum personalities develop and grow over time and through posts. I also feel that forums had a culture whereby you either needed to have been on a forum for a while to establish yourself or you had to be posting really good stuff for people to pay attention to you. This had it's negative sides but it stopped the shallow communication that we see on so many sites today, and I feel like it really forced people to engage with each other seriously, as you weren't just two random strangers who would never meet again, but two members of the same community.

A forum thread also gives no layout emphasis to the first 'content' post, putting an emphasis on discussion and contribution rather than just 'commenting'.

Everybody's first contact with the internet today is through the mega-sites and many people never go beyond them, they may not even really be aware of what's beyond, and the potential value of that.

Woven badge idea: Utopia exists on internet forums
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby trasparenti » Fri Apr 01, 2016 10:31 am

http://www.businessoffashion.com/articl ... t-from-ysl

is this old news? Surprised me. Eddy Slime Man left SLP.
pretty big shoes to fill, it'll be interesting to see who they pick for his successor and if they continue doing the same thing or do a 180

can't say i really care either way tbh but we'll see if SLP keeps going strong or if the trend dies out
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:08 pm

like slp was influential and all but it was boring

and i'm pretty sure hedi has contributed to a lot of people's body issues and anorexia by making his models fit into size 27 denim on the runway so fuck him

Spoiler:
EDIT waist size 27 for men, which for most ~6'1" models is a tight fit depending on their waist
look at how d02s look on the models vs. the people who go tts
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby smiles » Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:17 pm

Anyone know a good place to get a haircut in nyc?
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Fri Apr 01, 2016 1:11 pm

contributing to anorexia is pretty big claim to make

@blastoise go to any /fa/ thinspo (borderline pro-ana) thread and most of it will be slp runway shots

i also have a personal friend who's been to rehab for body image issues (and self-harm related to it) and she's a professed fan of slp

of course i can't establish an empirically true link between slp runway shows and anorexia but i see its effects and its really sad. healthy body image>>>>>>fashun
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby Blastoise » Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:32 pm

I don't go on /fa/ besides bst threads so I can't argue there. Valid enough.

Arguing on the other side: as someone who's naturally that skinny without any issues it's nice to see clothes designed to fit my body type (never mind the looser stuff I was trying to wear last year).
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby fun_yunchables » Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:35 pm

CheerUpBrokeBoy wrote:like slp was influential and all but it was boring

and i'm pretty sure hedi has contributed to a lot of people's body issues and anorexia by making his models fit into size 27 denim on the runway so fuck him

Spoiler:
EDIT waist size 27 for men, which for most ~6'1" models is a tight fit depending on their waist
look at how d02s look on the models vs. the people who go tts

someone i know was a model in the most recent slp show
the story he tells me about the denim is
"what size waist do you wear?"
"30"
"here's a 28"
*tries on, can't button*
"here's a 29"
*tries on, can't button*
finally gets a 30

lol
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby une_impasse » Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:46 pm

i am 6'1" and if i had a 27" waist i would be dead, i don't even think my pelvis is 27 inches around.

not sad to see Hedi go, i think his depiction of women was vulgar + demeaning and his men's stuff was bogus, there's a great showstudio panel where someone professes the people who he gets his flintstone from, actual rock-ers etc, probably wouldn't be caught dead in SLP.

his farewell show was nice though, and i'd like to mention that pierre bergé is a twit while i have the floor.
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby Blastoise » Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:56 pm

windowflowers » Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:47 pm
Comment:
feel like most designers are making stuff for skinny people?


Brief overview: kind of but the fit is completely different. Talking about jeans specifically, the taper and where they rest at the hip is what makes them different from other skinny jeans. Even if they're just as skinny throughout the overall shape is the defining factor. If you're wearing the right size (tts) they fit pretty easily and comfortably, not restraining in the slightest (I'm 5'11", 130 lbs, 30" waist for context). The fit of the jackets isn't too particular, shirts have a very square and boxy yet flowing fit to them, not exactly a slim fit or anything. Not that I can afford any of it anyway (nor want to, I do my own thing but I guess it's similar).
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby trasparenti » Fri Apr 01, 2016 10:41 pm

Also Zaha Hadid passed away

http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-35936768

truly unfortunate and disheartening considering she only recently won the Riba gold medal for architecture last year. Criminally underrated, I definitely need to go back and study her work more.

EDIT: by underrated I was clumsily referring to how tough it was for her to secure funding/jobs due to her designs/gender/etc. i was pretty tired but oh well
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Re: random fashion jersey bibs

Postby evilfriends » Sat Apr 02, 2016 12:51 pm

Has anyone else received an actual lookbook newspaper from Acne Studios in the mail?
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