Designers 101

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Designers 101

Postby can- » Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:39 pm

hello taglets, this thread is dedicated to the open and free exchange of knowledge with specific regards to designers.

are there any designers that you simply 'don't get'? this is a space where we can help with that.

I personally would love to know more about Stella McCartney-- I know almost nothing about her except that she's Pauls daughter and that she only(?) makes vegetarian clothing
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Re: Designers 101

Postby schiaparelli » Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:55 pm

i feel i hear a lot about stella mccartney lingerie, and this sweater is mad popular in the blogger set right now. i feel like her stuff is fairly "normal" from far away and the intriguing details are in, say, fabric choice or fabric treatments. i feel like her stuff is more intimate and slightly girly, and not super street-style-circus-y. here's a somewhat fawning article that maybe explains a bit.

there's some interesting history between mccartney and phoebe philo: they were friends + schoolmates (i think? at CSM?) and worked together (phoebe was stella's assistant) at chloé. stella left chloé, phoebe didn't, and took on the CD role.

that is the extent of my knowledge =|
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Re: Designers 101

Postby hooplah » Mon Dec 09, 2013 3:01 pm

just want to point out that voguepedia (http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/) can be a great resource for info about more well-known designers. usually includes a pretty detailed but short synopsis of the designer's life and aesthetic, and then a timeline

for stella (whom i love)

“Stella’s style has been influential because she is her customer,” Tom Ford once said of his younger colleague. And she herself obviously agrees: “I’m always designing what I want to wear,” she told Vogue in 2004.

What Stella McCartney has gravitated to over the years is a mix of Savile Row tailoring (perhaps because she apprenticed a bit with her father’s suit-maker, Edward Sexton, while a student), filmy lingerie, some sexy footwear—and a bit of slouch. As the daughter of a Beatle, McCartney might be rock royalty, but neither she nor her clothes has ever stood on ceremony. “Dress me down,” is how rocker Chrissie Hynde characterized the look. Fulfilling the desires of real-world customers has always been McCartney’s top priority: “It’s not about what it looks like in the studio or on the runway,” the designer told WWD. “It’s what it looks like on a real person that matters. That isn’t easy, but it’s what’s fun.”

McCartney was trained at Central Saint Martins, before being cherry-picked by the French house of Chloé in 1997 to succeed Karl Lagerfeld (a decision about which Kaiser Karl was volubly critical). After proving her chops at Chloé, she launched her own line, under her own name, in a 50/50 deal with Gucci Group in 2001. From the start, her playful irreverence was infectious. At a party thrown to introduce her work at H&M, a movable feast was served not by waiters but by toy trains running around a track in an old redbrick schoolhouse. The invitation for the spring 2007 show was a specially created “Little Miss” storybook by Adam Hargreaves. And McCartney models habitually walk the runway accessorized by a smile.

“Responsible luxury” is the calling card of Stella McCartney, who was raised in part on an organic farm and is a lifelong vegetarian. She refuses to use leather or fur, aiming for clothes that are at once elegant and ethical. Yet, however strident her beliefs, she can’t be labeled a zealot. “I don’t want people to buy my stuff because they know it’s not leather,” she has said. “I just want them to want the boots.”


personally, i love stella because she perfectly straddles the line between boyishness and femininity, and youth and maturity. her clothes almost always have a tomboyish or athletic vibe (she has a knack for activewear--adidas x stella mccartney), but then she uses these beautiful fabrics and "feminine" colors that just blend so well together. i dunno. i love her. she is incredibly consistent in the quality of her design.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:55 pm

someone explain to me facetasm?

I know their clothes but don't really understand or see their visual identity
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Re: Designers 101

Postby germinal » Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:50 am

facetasm is designed by a guy called hiromichi ochiai,
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he graduated from Bunka in 1999 and worked for several years at a textiles company, Guildwork, which deals with Comme, UC, etc. in 2007 he started Facetasm. people outside japan started paying attention in 2011ish, i'd say. the name comes from the word facet: facetasm is a brand about various perspectives. the label is representative - along with PHENOMENON, WWGB, unused etc - of tokyo fashion post ura-harajuku (nigo, hiroshi fujiwara, jun takahashi et al), and post antwerp. i'm not too familiar with "superflat" theory, so i might have misinterpreted it, but to me facetasm is the flattest of the flat. bondage gear; workwear; skatewear; surfwear; weird futuristic details; chainsaw handbags; prints, patterns and shearling galore - everything and anything is combined with little regard for any connotations each piece or detail may carry. He himself says
[in my ss11 collection] I incorporated totem poles and feathers to represent Native American designs, and shemagh and Moroccan style patterns to represent Islamic designs. They are common motifs, but such a cross-cultural mix of designs is only possible in Tokyo. The cardigan I am wearing today has a totem pole design, and I have an shemagh wrapped around my neck, but only in Tokyo is such a combination possible. I wanted to convey the appeal of such combinations of designs that is unique to Tokyo.

he's very talented and irreverent, and the tokyo fashion scene allows him to do some really exciting and unexpected things with his designs, in his typically maximalist and exuberant style. the facetasm visual identity is pretty well-established at this point. you'll see the same shapes time and again, lots of pieces are repeated each season
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:50 pm

thank you bb.


john Lawrence Sullivan?
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Re: Designers 101

Postby germinal » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:35 pm

John Lawrence Sullivan is named after a former heavyweight champion of the world, the designer Arashi Yanagawa is an ex-professional boxer himself. the brand was founded in 2003 with the winnings from his last fight and in 2011 started showing in Paris. The clothing is mostly an exploration of slim classic tailoring with sportswear elements and unexpected fabrics and patterns thrown in, which is nothing new but the execution is good. the jls man is elegant but could beat you up. the look is more restrained than Facetasm or PHENOMENON say, and has a lot in common with latter-day Raf, Lanvin, etc but still seems distinctly Japanese, to me at least. they may not be responsible for it but they codified the "round shades, chesterfield, ballcap, cropped trousers, portfolio clutch" look that was popular recently

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women's was introduced in 2010
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Re: Designers 101

Postby RycePooding » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:40 pm

What about Steven Alan
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:48 pm

Steven Alan is upmarket jcrew with better taste, design and costs twice as much
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Re: Designers 101

Postby charybdis » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:03 pm

To be fair, j.Crew is a mall brand, which I don't believe Steven Alan is.

Also, I think the crowd Steven Alan caters to (at least in regards to womenswear) is much younger than the j.Crew set. J.Crew womens is still very much targeted towards women in their forties, if the sheer number of godawful j.crew centric clothing blogs is any indication of this.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby RycePooding » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:19 pm

I may be way off-base with this, but I feel like as far as menswear goes J Crew caters towards early-twenties dude trying to 'dress better'.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby anshin » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:19 pm

Could somebody inform me about Death to Tennis?
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:30 pm

death to tennis is a really young brand out of NYC, designer comes from Ralph Lauren textiles and they only have a couple seasons. name comes from a print he made for Ralph which was two tennis rackets crossed w a skull in front like skull and crossbones.

they've been iterating on a topcoat for a couple seasons that is nice and has modern detailing, wouldn't look out of place in ervell's world. their shirts have cool inverted and recessed back pleats and huge front pockets. they remind me of tender's shirts. they also make chino-sweatpants really similar to jpress york street.

they remind me of Ovadia + sons, bespoken, mcnairy amsterdam, and Hans (bjarkenwhatever(?))
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Re: Designers 101

Postby sid3000 » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:42 pm

The european brand Hope? Mainly does it have anything to do with Bless?
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Re: Designers 101

Postby midvh » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:10 am

^Swedish brand, decent stuff. They don't have anything to do with Bless, at least not that I know of.

I'll write something better/longer another day if you're interested, I have to get some sleep.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby charybdis » Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:00 pm

RycePooding wrote:I may be way off-base with this, but I feel like as far as menswear goes J Crew caters towards early-twenties dude trying to 'dress better'.


Yes. Schia and I were talking about the disparity between the two.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby deadkitty » Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:34 pm

Could someone do Wonder Worker Guerilla Band? I know they're the two dudes that design Sasquatchfabrix and Eototo, but I haven't been able to find too much about them aside from a couple interviews.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby Mippipopolous » Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:56 pm

Anyone able to give me the 411 on Christophe Lemaire? Not terribly knowledgeable on him, but really like quite a bit of what I've seen here and there.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:43 am

Chloe and I accept no less than 600 words
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Re: Designers 101

Postby Syeknom » Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:46 am

We do have an employee of Chloé on here
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Re: Designers 101

Postby spahdfgo » Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:22 am

I'll write something up tonight since I'm about to go to work
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Re: Designers 101

Postby soundclip989 » Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:25 am

deadkitty wrote:Could someone do Wonder Worker Guerilla Band? I know they're the two dudes that design Sasquatchfabrix and Eototo, but I haven't been able to find too much about them aside from a couple interviews.


WWGB is an artist duo behind sasquatchfabrix and eototo. They're pretty mysterious, but I guess they dabble in fashion/art/graphic design/ interior design/ molding/ and illustrations.
Their design idea is to "vandalize" or reappropriate old ideas and garments with their own spin and cultural insight. You see this in sasquatch with everything from ronin-esque garbs to hockey jerseys.
Their side project eototo takes this idea even further by taking flintstone from traditional garment making and materials from all over the world. Eototo refers to a Hopi god. They want to discover new values for old ideas of clothing and construction.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby spahdfgo » Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:23 pm

I apologize, it's not 600 words long.

To understand the brand, you have to know what kind of girl Chloé is.

Chloé is a young Parisian woman, she’s only 22, tall with chestnut hair and always smiling or laughing. She’s obviously beautiful but not in an intimidating kind of way, you’re more admired by her. It’s the kind of the girl you fall in love with during your subway ride, you’ve never met her before but she still lights up your day. Girls want to be her and boys want to be with her. She’s always going to some art exhibition or for a coffee with her friends. Everything she does seems effortless because she doesn’t have to worry about anything. Even though she has many boys chasing her, she doesn’t want to tie herself up in a relationship. So that’s who the Chloé girl is, feminine, independent and free.

Now Chloé was founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion at a time when women had just earned the right to vote and the consequences of the war were still very much present. She wanted women to take their fate into their own hands. Her first collection was shown at the Café de Flore located in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, it is one of the most famous café of Paris, populated by writers, philosophers and left wing politicians. It was much less restrictive than what was being done at the time when ready-to-wear wasn’t really a thing yet.

Karl Lagerfeld joined in 1966 and allowed Chloé to become a world renowned brand worn by many actresses. However, in the 1980s after Karl left for Chanel, the brand faces some financial difficulties and is bought by Richemont. Karl comes back in 1992 to bring Chloé back on its feet which he does. He’s replaced by Stella McCartney in 1997 whose first collection is a success. The difficulties of the 80s are forgotten. In 2001, Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney’s friend and assistant, becomes Chloé’s head designer, she launches See by Chloé, a more affordable and accessible line and makes bags a central part of the brand. With her departure in 2006, things become a bit chaotic, three head designers in five years and a new CEO in 2010 after some financial difficulties.

The current head designer is Clare Waight Keller who arrived in 2011. Although, she’s not extremely well known, her resume is quite impressive. She was responsible for launching Ralph Lauren Purple Label and worked with Tom Ford at Gucci. She’s assisted by Tom Van Lingen, formerly responsible for the knitwear department at Sonia Rykiel and the design studio at Céline. Success is now back, the Baylee bag is a huge hit and often sold out and the different collections are very well received.

The brand recently celebrated its 60 years and Gaby Aghion received the Légion d’Honneur for her contributions.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby charybdis » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:21 am

Could someone enlighten me about Black Crane?
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:20 pm

what's good with Simone Rocha? really impressed with what I saw today at DSM.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby charybdis » Sun Dec 22, 2013 1:52 am

heckawheel wrote:And also why people think that Hedi is doing the brand a disservice?


I'm not an expert on SLP, but in terms of Heidi, it's probably for stuff like this http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10 ... flap/?_r=2

It comes off a childish and unprofessional.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby starfox64 » Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:34 pm

I'm on my phone but a lot of the criticism I have read about hedi/slap is that his designs are mostly just hedi slimane designs under the saint Laurent label and he is essentially treating the label like a blank canvas, rather than taking into account the history and legacy of ysl. This includes changing the name. But supposedly the execs wanted a brand overhaul and sales are way up.
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Re: Designers 101

Postby suubz » Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:24 pm

Would love to hear more about Aitor Throup
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Re: Designers 101

Postby can- » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:24 pm

Aitor is a doozy- honestly he could have his own thread, there's a lot to talk about and look at.

From the aesthetic standpoint, aitor advances an extremely modern look and silhouette. it's tempting to call him a futurist, but I think he is grounded in a dystopian look that is more contemporary than anything else-- it evokes the world of akira and ghost in the shell, it evokes the extreme pollution in china, and it evokes the attitudes of modern day riots. it's very slim-- almost like skin tight armor-- and it has military trimmings. his production method is singularly unique in about a dozen ways. it's all built from scratch in his atelier via construction techniques that the man invented. everything is sewn edge to edge with zero seam allowance. i believe he does this by using double layers of fabric everywhere and sewing them together where they meet-- imagine laying two pillow cases flat, sewing them together at the seams and pulling them tight. i could be wrong about this, but i know there is nothing else available that's made the same way. this shit blows my mind: his button holes have NO STITCHING! most of the seams are also taped, not for weatherproofing usually but rather for the look it brings.

conceptually i find him brilliant because while the look is modern and avant garde, it's all rooted in modern events such as racist stop and frisk policies, hurricane katrina, and UK football casuals/hooligans. i recommend you look up his sketches. they are highly stylized yet the relationship between them and his garments is clear. his sketches all depict anatomical forms in movement, and this is evident in his product by the intricate and unique pattern making. you can also see this in his capsule collaboration with soccer brand umbro. this marketing vid for the collab -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5apjct0DVY -- pretty much shows you what it's all about. here's another great video done for DSM -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNGdBVFjQH4 -- there's a brilliant timelapse where he creates a form out of mesh/mache. the dude oozes talent and passion.

his stuff is often lumped in with techwear, and there are obvious similarities between his gear and acronym, veilance, and also BBS, CCP and rick owens (in terms of an obsession with modern or new pattern making). but it's not technical in the traditional sense (which usually means schoeller or gore fabrics with a gusset here or there). the stuff is technical in terms of range of movement, but it's also technical in a largely conceptual sense-- for instance, almost all of his bottoms have shoes engineered into the hem so they can be worn by themselves. but i'm not sure how practical it actually winds up being. his pricing scheme also makes ACR/veilance look like budget options
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Re: Designers 101

Postby charybdis » Wed Jan 01, 2014 12:23 am

Can someone tell me about Victor & Rolf?

Thank you!
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