S.E.H Kelly

Clothes

S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:48 pm

Image

One of my favourite designers around. S.E.H Kelly, founded by Sara Kelly and Paul Vincent in 2009, make exquisitely well thought-out and detailed clothing using only fabrics and factories from the British Isles. Heritage brands are two for a penny these days but what interests me so much about S.E.H Kelly is the unpretentiousness of the clothing, the attention to form and detail in every piece, the limited runs and how coherent their aesthetic is without being cartoonish or pathetically over-nostalgic. The romance in the clothes with days gone by and the traditional way of making clothes is overt but the clothes don't shove this down your throat (unlike, say, Cabourn where the clothes are very distinctively operating in their own fantasy world).

Let's talk about S.E.H kelly and I'll keep this updated with new products when they get released. I emailed Paul a little while back about my up-coming trip to London and he said that there'll be new releases from mid-August onwards including several new jackets (wool and Ventile), knitwear, more trousers ("traditional"), shirts ("formal") and a trench coat. Should be good.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
  • 10

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:52 pm

Their trench coat is under construction at the moment and they're working with a manufacturer of custom brass buckles in the Black Country.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Blog Post
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:54 pm

Twitter @sehkelly wrote:New peacoat and tour jacket prototypes today at workshop.
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:58 pm

And here's my collarless cord jacket in action.

Image

Image

Side entry pockets

Image
  • 3

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:02 pm

I thought it was funny when I asked him to make a harrington and he said there's no zip makers in england so they'll never make anything with a zip.
  • 5

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:06 pm

Haha, perfect.

Kinda happy, good buttons are much more interesting things to me.
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby can- » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:13 pm

do love me some creamy white buttons
  • 1

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2987
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11308

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:47 pm

Image

says this is done by a one man mill.

"Best expletive cloth expletive yet says one-man-mill as rope-dyed herringbone indigo comes back from finisher."

seh kelly twitter feed reads really weird actually. Super abrupt. Like it's written by an old school style robot.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:40 am

The writing style for the blogs is great too.

cameron- wrote:do love me some creamy white buttons


Corozo nut buttons are lovely. Tightly wound fibres that make it scratch/crack resistant and give it a beautiful dry grain (unique to every button). Looks a little like ivory except made from nuts. Apparently it dyes really well and the richness of the creamy buttons on my jacket certainly makes the case for that.

Corozo nut, also known as the Tagua:

Image

Indigenous to South America, the nuts found their first practical use as a ballast in the hull of trade ships between South American ports and Europe as they are heavy, plentiful and don't absorb water. By chance a ship laden with them ended up at Hamburg and a local artist spotted the nuts. He was able to carve them into different shapes and found immediate success with his sculptures and carvings. The seeds and nuts became quickly popular and the Germans set up a trade port in Ecuador to facilitate the import of the nuts. The Germans eventually started exporting the nuts themselves to the Italians for carving (and back to Germany to sell) but the Italians sought out the source of the nuts, until then kept a close secret by German merchants. An Italian trading port was set up in Ecuador in direct competition to the Germans. Despite a boon in the Victorian era the introduction of plastics turned consumers off of corozo products and ended the businesses involved in the trade.

Interestingly, when the business picked up again in the later stages of the 20th century two grand-children of the original German and Italian families in ownership of the trading houses in Ecuador (the Zanchi and Hellwig families) and in Ecuador started a romantic relationship without knowing their families competitive history. The two families eventually united to corner the corzo business again (as an American company I believe).

S.E.H Kelly sources their corozo buttons from the only remaining corozo (and horn) button manufacture in Britain - a family in the midlands who've owned the factory since the 1800s over 5 generations. Corozo comes in, gets cut, dyed and polished and shipped out to be put onto jackets for lucky folks such as myself.

Image

Buttons are awesome.
  • 4

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:28 pm

New Ventile tour jackets:

Cinnamon and Charcoal Grey

ImageImage

Collar is rad:

Image

Another feature of the jacket — strapping that attaches with buttons to the jacket interior, and runs up through the back neck. Thus wearers have the option of wearing the jacket like a backpack should the mood take.

The mechanism takes its cue from hunting jackets of yore, when hunter — hands already full with fox and gun and suchlike — wished to disrobe after his exertions under midday sun.


Image

Image

Image
  • 1

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby adhi » Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:05 pm

seh kelly twitter feed reads really weird actually. Super abrupt. Like it's written by an old school style robot.


his ama was like this too. the guy comes across as very blunt and no beating around the bush. he was especially frank for an event that is supposed to be an advertisement of sorts, to put your image out there. i can only imagine it's the same guy tweeting.
  • 1

User avatar
adhi
 
Posts: 117
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 1:50 pm
Location: ann arbor
Reputation: 172

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:02 pm

Yeah, pretty sure it's Paul who does everything pr-ish.

I really hope I can avoid spending all of money on jackets when I visit in London, I need non-jacket things but these are so pretty.
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:34 pm

touched up a ventile cameraman in flanells in burham. Just felt like really thin cotton, was amazing.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:35 pm

  • 1

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby starfox64 » Tue Sep 03, 2013 1:07 pm

ugh that charcoal cardigan is super tempting. dunno if it's better or worse knowing that it's not going to go on sale.
  • 0

"Authorities say the phony Pope can be recognized by his high-top sneakers and incredibly foul mouth."
User avatar
starfox64
 
Posts: 1146
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:41 am
Location: your mom
Reputation: 2131

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:27 pm

That price is comical.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:45 pm

Not such a surprise, but it is a lot more than the other cardigans (consistent with the other lambswool pieces though). I'm probably not going to bite for that price but it does look mighty nice. No seams, pockets with different stitching, presumably very lovely wool etc.

Image
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby germinal » Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:23 pm

i'm beginning to develop an irrational dislike of how seemingly every collar/pocket flap/etc on an SEH piece is rounded, exaggeratedly so. there's a fine line between branding-through-design making clothes for cartoon characters imo
  • 0

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5239

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:44 pm

On the contrast, I like the idea of being a cartoon character.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby can- » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:05 pm

I think that collar would have a nice place on some kind of flight/aviator jacket but on that wool joint (along w the ribbed cuffs) I would not pay retail for it
  • 0

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2987
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11308

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Wed Sep 04, 2013 2:41 am

I really like the S.E.H Kelly aesthetic overall but I sort of never like the pieces when I see them on their own.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:03 am

If you thought the cardis were expensive..

Crew neck tuck-stich lambswool jumpers

Image

Image

Image

Image

The jumper is, in knitwear-speak, ten-ply — i.e. there are ten stitches to the inch. In everyday speak, that means preposterous thickness: one jumper folded is the same height as four cord shirts. Indeed, the jumper is warm to a thermonuclear level; warmer than a lot of outerwear, in fact.


I'm really looking for a thick crew-neck right now and these are so very tempting but the price makes me properly uncomfortable. I do imagine if one owned a jumper like this one'd end up practically living in the thing. Beautiful looking material here, really something.

Image
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:05 am

Gonna kill your layering game if they're as warm as they say they are.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:19 am

What if I don't have game?
  • 1

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby sknss » Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:41 pm

that jumper looks great and comfy but also very impractical, unless you live in antarctica
  • -1

User avatar
sknss
2015 Summer Camp Participant
 
Posts: 1441
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:26 am
Reputation: 6450

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:47 pm

Tetris Tweed Blazer

ImageImage

The cloth is a mid-weight wool-tweed, woven in County Donegal in Ireland by a father-and-son mill. It’s a 1+1 box weave — hence the Tetris sobriquet — with two colours on the warp and one on the weft. Donegal being Donegal, the colours are made up of many different tones, thus each jacket is unique.


Image

Image

The jacket is half-lined at the back with wool-melton: a fine outer cloth, from West Yorkshire, here used to provide a little extra structure and warmth inside the jacket. This is a “buggy” lining, with two curved cuts of cotton running from the shoulders and overlapping across the back of the jacket.Granite grey Tetris tweed blazer Garments made with the makers of the British Isles


Image

The wool is hand-woven by a sixth-generation mill in County Donegal in Ireland. Every inch of the cloth, every step of the way — from designing to warping to weaving — is overseen by one of two people; a father and son who continue the flecked tweed-weaving traditions of this part of Ireland.


On the twitter Paul notes:

Both hand-woven in County Donegal by father and son and loom in shed at bottom of garden.


I've no need for more jackets so this is out! Damn nice though.
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby bels » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:20 pm

Looks great. Insane texture.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 5056
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18754

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby ramseames » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:26 pm

does everything actually fit that rotund or is that just the mannequin?

texture on that jacket is outrageously cool.
  • 0

User avatar
ramseames
 
Posts: 2235
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:14 pm
Location: vancouver
Reputation: 6688

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:37 pm

The mannequins are rubinesque
  • 1

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: S.E.H Kelly

Postby Syeknom » Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:23 pm

Peacoats

Image

ImageImage

Image

Image

Image

I'm so happy that I'm not interested in peacoats because these look really lovely but I can't afford it right now. Love how it looks on the model rather - there's a very nice shape to the whole affair. Not easy to do with such a thick tweed.
  • 1

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Next

Return to Tags

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests