Welcome To: The Interzone [RAF SIMONS]

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Welcome To: The Interzone [RAF SIMONS]

Postby germinal » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:04 am



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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:48 am

Is this a Joy Div thread or William Burroughs thread or a Raf Simons thread.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:52 am

it's hard to define :>



Dazed Digital wrote:The term ‘interzone’ is difficult to define. It is a phrase that has become increasingly associated with the work of Raf Simons and one that suggests his work exists within a realm that goes beyond any one specific thing – certainly beyond the confines of fashion.

Yesterday, this term felt more appropriate than ever. Raf was intent on creating a moment, showcasing his work thirty-minutes outside of Paris at the Gagosian Gallery, surrounded by the work of artists Alexander Calder and Jean Prouvé. “All I can say about tonight, is that it was an environment that connects very much to a dream scenario for me,” he explained after the show – and it was. The collection resonated with these two artists, Raf exploring the industrialisation of society through branded garments – much like the work of Prouvé, but also exploring the freedom of Calder’s kinetic sculptures.

In a rare interview after his show, Raf talks interzones, why he is continuously attracted to things he can’t define and why we can “take it or leave it”.


Dazed Digital: A few weeks ago I was talking to Peter Saville about your work and something that came up again and again was this idea of ‘the interzone’. It’s a term that has always been heavily associated with your work and I’m interested to find out how you define the term ‘interzone’?

Raf Simons: I can’t define it. I’ve been trying to find out for two decades now and I find myself ending up in interzones without knowing how to define it but it’s something that attracts me very much. We used to create that kind of space and moment in relation to the world that we are expressing through clothes very much in the early days and I think lately we feel very much the desire to do that again. We actually brought ourselves out of Paris back into an environment that relates to the environment we used to show in back in the days which was always in the film studios, doing a certain kind of cinematography but also to create a specific moment in time that is quite connected to the idea of the interzone when you think about audience, the boys, the world we create with us, the art process, the moment that is going to be exposed. I cannot give a definition of it. I think my interaction is to not be able to define it. I’m usually very attracted to things that I can’t define. If something’s too clear, it’s very often not inspiring to me anymore.

All I can say about tonight is it was an environment that connects very much to a dream scenario for me. As you know I am an industrial designer graduate and I only came to fashion later. Being able to show in relation to the work of Jean Prouvé, and Alexander Calder is a very emotional thing for me because I admired both the architect and the artist very much already from a very young age. I think that without even knowing, that may be the interzone, because when I approached Larry Gagosian to see if there was the possibility to show in this space there was no show yet defined, so we didn’t know. So we kept on talking until we got the information about who was showing here which was already slowly collating to what we would do as a collection and I also wanted to relate it even more to that collection.

We were also thinking about product and industrialisation of how our lives begin and our society and everything we use, everything we swallow, like food and drinks and products and how it’s getting more and more man-made and more and more artificial and we were at the same time thinking about freedom and thinking about what’s the ultimate contrast to that, what’s the interesting juxtaposition with that. So we started thinking about babies and children and teenagers, you know where everything seems to be so much more natural. The most natural thing is the baby of course, it’s just there and it’s alive and there was nothing, no clothes, there was nothing. I think Jean Prouvé very much represents the industrial, it’s about the product and the manufactured product. Calder was expressing so much freedom and movement and the freedom of form and the movement of shape in space or in non-space. I think Calder's is for me almost the ultimate non-space art or interzone art, because it’s a sculpture, but when you think sculpture you usually think it stands. But it doesn’t so it’s kind of interzone-y and very graphic also at the same time, and so soft and hard and I think we were out for that kind of language.

Also, at the moment we are - because I think fashion moves in waves - enjoying fashion, very much. I’m enjoying men very much, the position at Dior, it’s such a contrast you know and such a beauty also to be able to have the possibility to express in such a major historical context in Dior for women. On the other hand we’re expressing ourselves or I’m expressing myself with my team in an environment which is free and still so young as a brand. We’ve been around for two decades but still I feel like it’s the brand’s teenager and I like to keep it like that, so we are in a very positive mood. I think we wanted to show a lot of energy tonight and freedom and we want to push the men’s a little bit because I - again not from a critical position - but I see there is a lot of behaviour in men’s fashion, which is systematic. It’s a lot about all these kind of clothes that can be easily combined with each other and it's less and less, I think, about making a fashion statement. I find that rather surprising at the moment when so many people, and so many young people, are surrounding fashion and getting more and more interested. I’d prefer to come from out of our world to push them or give them all the possibility.

We are a grown up brand on the one hand - we have a show room where you can of course, get your classic suit and tie - but on the other hand, I think in terms of showing, in terms of having a dialogue about fashion, we want to have the dialogue and I think there are a lot of things happening right now, in fashion in general and that is why it’s a good moment to start a dialogue. There’s a new generation coming in moving away from Paris. I also want to say you can move away from Paris if you want. Maybe it needs us to, so people also dare to do it, but even for me, I started to feel obliged to show clothes on the previous show. When you have shows there are eight shows in a day and there is a show before you, you feel obliged to show right after that show, in a maximum of ten minutes after that show space. Already that limited me in the ticketing process because there was no space that we liked. Only this historical space or only this trashy space. It was ‘let’s do our thing, let’s do what we need to do to express what we want to say this season’. Originally I was even thinking of just going out and createing a new kind of energy. In the beginning it was scary but on the other hand, I feel it was something that can also excite the audience as much as they can be upset about it when they need to spend more time getting to a show. It’s also not that automatically we will do it every season. Maybe next season I will find an environment in Paris that is perfect for the collection but for this situation it needed to be shown in another context.

DD: I also felt there was this kind of gender aspect this season. The collection felt almost genderless and I don’t know whether that was a concern of yours?

Raf Simons: I think it has always been hanging around our brand a bit. It’s a brand that pushes fashion forward and that means that automatically there is more experiment to it. Although we are still defined really as 100 per cent Raf Simons men’s only, we have women clients, women buying and wearing our clothes which is very exciting for me. I don’t feel at this moment in time to want to specifically design something for women because I find it fascinating to see the fact that women want to buy things that they see on men. I think that’s also an evolution. I think it goes in two directions and for the rest I can only say it’s a very natural way for us to behave. It’s not that we over think - it’s very natural. We feel it’s almost a party mood. We’re enjoying it and we show electricity and show energy and, at the same time, show nature.

All the boys were natural tonight. There was nobody who did the hair for them. We showed them as they come so it was very much about the way of dressing, the way of choosing the clothes as a way to express yourself. It was not a camouflage in terms of how you can create yourself with hair or product or styling. You think about the collection and that is what is interesting right now. You can just take it or leave it but hopefully take it.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:56 am

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Good overview on Raf history

September, 1999

“Simons is notoriously camera-shy,” Nathan Cooper reports in Vogue. “He’s never even taken a bow after his angst-ridden runway shows, in which pale-skinned youths march to the ominous beat of Belgian techno music in oversize black suits with ripped-off sleeves and awkwardly pleated baggy pants.”


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15 Years of Brilliance - great pictures

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:06 am

Who is "we" ?
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Aug 07, 2013 4:36 pm

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:20 pm

what book are those photos of?
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby can- » Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:22 pm

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:29 pm

germinal wrote:what book are those photos of?


Ripping them from the same book as the antwerp six stuff - 6+ Antwerpse Mode

1st and 3rd are from i-D, second is from Weekend Knack 27th March 1996, last is from "autumn-winter 1997-1998"
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:05 am

















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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby can- » Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:19 pm

post that jumper germinal.

I like raf simons. if he makes one of those goofily large print hoodies again I will probably buy one.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:57 pm

ok, i bought this sweatshirt the other day on ebay

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it's from ss 2006 "Icarus Surgit" (icarus rises/emerges) which combines the myth of icarus and other classical references with the futurist ideas and the "tailoring for a new generation" from the 2005 collections; airy meshes and noirish trenchcoats along with his usual youth culture stuff. light v dark, hubris v humility concept. youth gangs roaming the streets of Neo-Athens in the year 2579

this sweatshirt wasn't even on the runway and is probably the most boring piece you could buy that season

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:29 am

Indeed not such an interesting piece, but if you were after a grey jersey anyway..

How is the fabric?

Do you own other pieces from Icarus Surgit
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:11 am

i've wanted a sweatshirt after i sold my OL. To tell the truth i was surprised to win this considering the going rate of the more iconic raf pieces recently. Personally i love the slogan too

i haven't received it yet, i used the seller's pics. Don't expect that much from the fabric though.

i don't, though there are plenty of pieces i'd buy if the price was right. i'd like to try some of the really baggy trousers from that era
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby thomaspaine » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:45 pm

Raf interview on OC

http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=8343

http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=8344

I knew Raf's label was small but apparently his studio only has 6 people. I think Everlane and Outlier have more people on staff than Raf.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:56 am

Great article. Feel like I'm reading a lot about scenes lately. Has anyone ever been part of a "scene" ?
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:19 am

I guess kind-of-but-not-really

Living in bristol i'd go to small-venue gigs and shows a couple of times a week and there'd be familiar faces at most of them, and I volunteered at a not-for-profit cinema/gig venue/art-space where a lot of the same folks congregated/attended/performed. I guess that's basically a "scene" even if I personally wasn't majorly involved.

Reading about Raf and the Six makes it all the more depressing that Belgium is pretty much a cultural backwater again (maybe Gent/Antwerp have more going on though).
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby thomaspaine » Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:05 pm

If you're socially involved with other people you're probably part of a scene but don't realize it, it's usually not as glamorous as it sounds when you're in the present. The whole internet fashion thing (styleforum, superfuture, reddit, care-tags) could be considered a scene with their own little subcultures.

Real life scenes I can think of that I've been a part of...I used to be more involved in the hardcore scene in the cities I lived in but after moving to california and not having anyone to go to shows with combined with getting older and jaded I've fallen out of most of that. I was in a shitty electro band around 2000-2002 and since there were only like 10 electro bands in my city around that time it was easy to know all the other groups and the 5 regulars who came to your shows.

Living in San Francisco the past 5 years there's a huge startup and technology scene that's continuing to grow, although I've also kind of become jaded and fallen out of that too.

Basically scenes are fun when they're small and intimate, and as they grow in size they kind of get corrupted. They tend to revolve around a handful of personalities and if you're one of those personalities or at least close to them then it's more enjoyable, but this usually leads to weird egos or something happens that causes the scene to collapse or decay and most people move on to something else.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:15 pm

I guess this is a scene.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:25 pm

How does that make you feel?
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:37 pm

I'm a big personality around here, so pretty good.

I guess I'm sort of in the Cambridge Performance Poetry Scene but. I mean. Come on.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:45 pm

scene but not herd
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby odradek » Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:42 pm

i was part of the burgeoning chinese fixed gear scene but left just as it was picking up steam. the first alleycat we did was like, 50 people, the second was like 300.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Sat Aug 24, 2013 5:25 am

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby can- » Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:59 am

tried on this kray kray raf by raf hobo coat today at consignment store

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dishrag texture with a weird shiny gleam. fit well but outside of my budget for what it is (550$ gently used)

really cool fabric tho-- this is (unfortunately) the best shot I got of it

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Tue Sep 03, 2013 7:16 pm

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:00 am

rihanna is in the interzone

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Had a read thru the Taschen x i-D retrospecive book in Waterstones the other day. It's pretty cool, basically every editorial featuring his clothes and every article about / interview with him (all translated into four languages) that have appeared in i-D over the years. Most of the pictures i'd seen before though, and it's freaking huge (A3 or bigger) so i didn't bother
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby bels » Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:02 am

Bought an issue of ID the other day but it wasn't very good.

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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby Syeknom » Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:07 am

germinal wrote:Had a read thru the Taschen x i-D retrospecive book in Waterstones the other day. It's pretty cool, basically every editorial featuring his clothes and every article about / interview with him (all translated into four languages) that have appeared in i-D over the years. Most of the pictures i'd seen before though, and it's freaking huge (A3 or bigger) so i didn't bother


I was reading through that same book in a chain bookshop over the weekend too! Nicely presented and seeing the pictures that big is a different experience to seeing them online.
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Re: Welcome To: The Interzone

Postby germinal » Thu Oct 10, 2013 9:20 am

this eBay seller has a bunch of rarities i've never seen before, so i decided to steal pics for posterity: http://www.ebay.com/usr/srvcar
the prices are ridiculous but

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VHSs (!) of the first 9 collection videos
Exclusive limited edition Video Set

We are offering a hand numbered box containing 9 VHS tapes (VHS PAL) with the first 9 fashion shows of Raf Simons. The box we are offering has number 69 and has been released in the year 2000.

tape 1: Autumn/Winter 1995-1996
tape 2: Spring/Summer 1996
tape 3: Autumn/Winter 1996-1997 WE ONLY COME OUT AT NIGHT
tape 4: Spring/Summer 1997 TEENAGE SUMMERCAMP
tape 5: Autumn/Winter 1997-1998 SHOW
tape 6: Spring/Summer 1998 SHOW BLACK PALMS
tape 7: Autumn/Winter 1998-1999 SHOW
tape 8: Spring/Summer 1999 SHOW KINETIC YOUTH
tape 9: Autumn/Winter 1999-2000 SHOW

The first VHS shows Raf´s very first presentation video clip. The last video shows Raf´s ninth fashion presentation.


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AW98 cape

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one-off evisu collab, a remake of the 2000 flags (only £5999!)
Raf Simons Isolation flag
one-off production in Evisu denim

We are offering this Isolation Flag including 3 meter high handcrafted wooden pole. It was one of the main pieces of the Designers Do Denim auction in 2001 in benefit of the Tropical Institute. Over 50 designers and artists were asked to give their interpretation to Evisu denim. Participants such as Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, OWN, Stephan Schneider, Ann Demeulemeester, Wouters & Hendrix, Bernhard Willhelm and many more... There has been a lot of press attention and this flag was also featured in i-D magazine, the flintstone issue no. 206 curated by Raf simons himself (see pictures below).

This Flag - inspired by Joy Division's song Isolation - is a one-off production and has been exhibited in several museums. The handcrafted pole is currently in stock due to its length. For this reason we prefer a local pick up in Antwerp but other shipping suggestions are more than welcome. This offer includes the original auction catalogue.

This is a unique chance to own this amazing piece. The Isolation flag visualises the whole ideology of Raf Simons.


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ss2003 can jewellery

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aw2002 foil/mesh double-layer jumper
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