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Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:23 pm
by sknss
AB: What do you hope women say/feel about your clothes?
SPJ: That they just want to be a "Jacquemus" women.

From http://post-new.com/#news=node/480

Simon Porte Jacquemus is a young designer from the south of France. At 19, he decides to move to Paris to attend the ESMOD fashion school. Unfortunately, the school does not suit him and three months later, he quits. The sudden death of his mother prompts him to start doing what he truly loves. During the day, Simon works for Comme des Garçons. At night, he designs his first collection.

FW 2010 L’hiver froid (the cold winter)
http://jacquemus.com/lhiver-froid/

The model is Jeanne Damas, french model/actress/muse whatever. http://jeannedamas.blogspot.fr/

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:23 pm
by sknss

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:23 pm
by sknss
FW 2011 L’usine (the factory)
http://jacquemus.com/lusine/
http://vimeo.com/26201727

In september 2011, Jacquemus creates a small happening avenue Montaigne during the Vogue Fashion Night Out. He stands with his models in front of Dior with a banner that says JACQUEMUS ON STRIKE. Emmanuelle Alt (editor in chief of Vogue Paris) shakes his hand.

Starts at 1:41:40


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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:23 pm
by sknss
SS 2012 Le chenil (the kennel)
http://jacquemus.com/le-chenil/
http://vimeo.com/35431083

Perhaps it is this sincerity that caught the eye of Caroline de Maigret, the erstwhile French supermodel whose rare appearances on the catwalk today come as personal favours to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Alexander Wang or Maison Martin Margiela. The androgynous beauty agreed to be the face of his spring 2012 campaign, after Jacquemus, drawn to Maigret for her similarity to his mother, contacted her over Facebook. “For her to say ‘Yes let’s go, I believe in you’ after my one email,” he says, “I think there must be something behind it.”
In the short film, due to be released in January 2012, Maigret plays a woman who devotes her life to taking care of dogs, a kennel caretaker if you like – except the “Jacquemus girl” transcends her ordinary day job title. Titled ‘Le chenil’ (the kennel), his spring 2012 collection is essentially various permutations of linen sack dresses in blue, black, white and red, inspired directly from the strict colours of a nun’s habit. On its own, the dresses with its drop waist and pared-down flounce hint to the classic shapes created by Cristobal Balenciaga (if ever the master couturier were to create for the blue-collared woman worker?) Beyond that, the pieces are empowered by a storyline that captures the beauty in seemingly independent but lonely women, who dedicate their lives to the monotony and routine of work while dreaming of fairy tales and faraway places. A significant, somewhat anti-fashion quality often played out in his work is a woman oblivious to her own charm.

from http://www.undercurrentmagazine.com/?q=node/16

Tell me a little bit about your new collection.
For my fourth collection I found new sources of flintstone and a new story to tell. All the clothes are made out of linen in white, lavander, navy, black & red; I imagined the story of a lonely women, tired of men, who dedicates her life to dogs.
It’s inspired by nurses’ and nuns’ uniforms, which are radical and strict. I chose just 5 colors and 5 different styles of dresses. I think the idea of repetition that you get with uniforms is a very strong idea.
I also wanted my dresses to look very old, like the kinds of dresses your grandmother would wear, clothes which tell a story…

from http://www.novembremagazine.com/2012/01 ... jacquemus/

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:24 pm
by sknss
FW 2012 Le sport 90
http://jacquemus.com/le-sport-90/
http://vimeo.com/52372064 that vid is really fun, watch it!

When it comes to making your collections which materials and cuts do you like using most and why?
I like simple materials like cotton, linen and wool. But for example my last collection le Sport 90 for next winter I used vinyl for the first time but it was just because of the story. She was a 90s girl and so it was as if she had to wear vinyl, something very trash. Overall it’s the materials that have to work with the story but for sure I prefer simple materials. Like everyone knows, I don’t try to do fashion experiments. I don’t know because I didn’t learn how so I’m not attracted to it. Some people say they are attracted to a certain silhouette but not me. I just try and get rid of all the details. I try to do ‘crazy simple.’ Also I don’t want to use very expensive materials because I want my price to be affordable so that young twenty-something girls can wear my clothes.

from http://bite-zine.com/post/25601528143

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:24 pm
by sknss
SS 2013 La maison (the house)
http://jacquemus.com/la-maison/

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:24 pm
by sknss
FW 2013 La piscine (the swimmingpool)
http://jacquemus.com/la-piscine/
http://vimeo.com/69510498
http://vimeo.com/62163900
http://jacquemus.com/la-piscine-defile/

His first runway show took place in a public swimmingpool of the 11th arrondissement so fashion editors had to wear plastic shoe covers.

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:39 pm
by can-
damn what is going on w french ppl

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:29 pm
by lanky
A lot of his earlier stuff gave off strong AA vibes to me, but felt faintly classed up, although that might just be the context.

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 4:12 am
by Syeknom
These are really lovely collections - I love how relaxed and playful a lot of it is. To my eyes it looks decidedly French (perhaps my perception is influenced by the model though) without pretension or pastiche. I love the big overcoats and thick dresses.

This:
Spoiler:
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is so good, allez.

Wish I could apply to work as a muse.

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 5:09 am
by bels
Skns you don't have to just be a muse. Don't let the patriarchy get you down like that. You can be more than a pretty girl who gives some guy great ideas.

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:10 am
by sknss
lanky wrote:A lot of his earlier stuff gave off strong AA vibes to me, but felt faintly classed up, although that might just be the context.


i don't know. the 80s are a big influence for both of them so that may be the jizz you're getting

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:50 pm
by sknss
here's a playlist i found in Modzik #34

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:08 pm
by germinal
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from Ligature Magazine

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:06 am
by can-
who is the jacquemus girl?

what does she eat for breakfast?

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:49 pm
by sknss
i think the jacquemus girl is french and in her twenties. she doesn't brush her hair and doesn't do her makeup. she's beautiful au naturel. during the day she hangs out with her girlfriends doing nothing

she could be a mix between the french porn icon Lolo Ferrari and Charlotte Gainsbourg in L'effronttée

[youtube]?v=Nr0uZxHmDeA[/youtube]

[youtube]?v=f6yihzkYAxs[/youtube]


this is what she does with her breakfast
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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 6:23 pm
by sknss
more about the jacquemus girls

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Clara, Eléonore, Magdalena, Lolita, and Kristell

opening ceremony wrote:Clara Deshayes, 28, DJ
Hometown: Paris
Secret talent: Pinball wizard
Signature look: T-shirt, jeans, Dr Martens
Who else would you nominate to join your girl gang? Florence Rey
Where can you be found on the weekend? DJing

Eléonore Toulin, 22, Photographer/Model
Hometown: Paris
Secret talent: I can have a conversation with someone while I'm sleeping
Favorite piece from "La Piscine"? The striped suit
Who else would you nominate to join your girl gang? Beatrix Kiddo, Uma Thurman's character in Kill Bill
Where can you be found on the weekend? The flea market in Saint-Ouen

Magdalena Podolewska, 28, Student
Hometown: Suwałki, Poland
Secret talent: Eating candy
Favorite piece: The royal blue coat
Who else would you nominate to join your girl gang? The French writer Colette
Where can you be found on the weekend? Wherever there's water

Lolita Jacobs, 24, Art Director
Hometown: Paris
Secret talent: I can speak to squirrels
Signature look: Black roots, flats, tiny bag
Who else would you nominate to join your girl gang? Jack Lemmon, Tony Curtis, and Sporty Spice
Where can you be found on the weekend? Swimming

Kristell Bannier, 22, Stylist
Hometown: Geneva
Secret talent: I can play the violin
Signature look: Ruffled hair
Who else would you nominate to join your girl gang? Jane Birkin
Where can you be found on the weekend? In the streets of the 18th arrondissement

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 5:58 am
by germinal

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:32 am
by bels
I wonder what the Jacquemus man is wearing.

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:30 am
by can-
more than AA (which you probably see bc of the styling and model choices) i see a lot of mid 2000's APC

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:50 pm
by sknss
coming soon

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:06 am
by sknss
coming sooner
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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:12 am
by Syeknom
"motte" is a mound of earth? I checked with some francophonic colleagues. What is the La Grande Motte going to be?

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:29 am
by sknss
La Grande Motte is actually a a city near Montpellier in the south of France. it's a very popular seaside resort. it is well known for its achitecture from the 1960s
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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:30 am
by Syeknom
Ah! Beautiful

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:21 am
by germinal
and here i was hoping for a Motte and Bailey -themed collection

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:48 pm
by sknss

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:58 pm
by Syeknom
Couldn't sleep on the eurostar so I read the on-board magazine. Very short interview with the co-owner of Hunting and Collecting which is a really nice shop.

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Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:21 am
by germinal


wish someone other than nowfashion would put some pics up

Re: Jacquemus et les filles

PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:35 am
by sknss
at least we have MissFashionNews