Designers & Their References

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Designers & Their References

Postby blankinput » Thu Jul 17, 2014 12:22 am

Post any references, cultural or otherwise, that you see designers make in their clothes, accessories, etc. What's obvious to you might not be obvious to someone else, so don't let that stop you. Glaringly blatant or not, it's all cool to read. I don't think this has been done before, but maybe I'm wrong.

Daiki Suzuki did a lot of vintage buying in MA in the 1980s and was around Cambridge quite often. A lot of the EG item names are based on Boston streets, with some variations in spelling. Some examples are the Landsdown Jacket and the Chauncey Shirt.

RRL has an Alden Indy-esque boot they periodically release. It's called the Belloq Boot. As some of you probably know, the Indy Boot name comes from Harrison Ford's Indiana Jones character. RRL's Belloq boot is a tongue-in-cheek reference to Dr. Belloq from the Indiana Jones universe.
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby yourdad » Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:29 am

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby parastexis » Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:17 pm

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raf simons, rothko

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mmm, van gogh

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mmm, the usual suspects

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ysl, mondrian

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bless, indecent proposal

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carven, bosch

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valentino, cranach

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not sure if she's the reference, but I've always though the lightning bolt on uc jeans were a reference to patti smith's tattoo, especially considering her influence and relationship with the brand
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby can- » Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:11 pm

jun takahashi only eats food out of cans or something
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby ramseames » Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:34 pm

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby DeafIdiotGod » Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:27 pm

Our Legacy SS15

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby sweeeeeeeeeeet emootion » Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:56 pm

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edgar evans the polar explorer, nigel cabourn

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thommy b, amish community

also shit like this also reminds me of a lot of UCism and maybe some black means pieces
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby sweeeeeeeeeeet emootion » Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:00 pm

also, Manastash are on some vintage Patagonia shit. does anyone know if their designs are actually performance based or just for style?

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(manastash)

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(patagonia)
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Iliam » Tue Feb 03, 2015 2:00 am

jenny holzer owns pseudo poignant capitalised bold text

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Jenny for Helmut Lang (2000)
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Raf SS 2002
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josh reim ss14
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Andrea Jiapei Li
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Walter Van Beirendonck A/W15 (~disputable inclusion~)
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i know i've seen similar text elsewhere......

Spoiler:
A list of Jenny quotessayings 2 make your own at home!
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:47 pm

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supreme frances frames, named after kurt's daughter
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Thu Feb 05, 2015 5:12 pm

sorry to spam this thread, but i just saw this in a video i'm watching for an anthropology class
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top: organizers at a 1992 demonstration in nyc in response to plans to build a federal building on an african american ground
bottom: supreme xodus tee fw12

also here's an album of stuff they've done over the years taken from strictlysupreme



again sorry for sup spam
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Iliam » Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:26 pm

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Man Ray, L’Enigme d’Isidore Ducasse, 1920

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Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Venus (Project for Villa Borghese, Rome), 1974

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Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Trees (Fondation Beyeler and
Berower Park, Riehen, Switzerland)
, 1997-98

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Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Monument to Vittorio Emanuele (Piazza Duomo, Milano), 1970

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Junya Watanabe Fall 2008
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby germinal » Tue Apr 14, 2015 3:21 am

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Spoiler:
“On November 26, 1965, Beuys put the hare into the leading role in an Action. The title: How to Explain Pictures to a Dead Hare. The place: Galerie Alfred Schmela, in Düsseldorf, a gallery that had commited itself early and strongly to Beuys and had done a great deal to promote his reputation. Beuys sat on a chair in one corner of the gallery, next to the entrance. He had poured honey over his head, to which he had then affixed fifty dollars worth of gold leaf. In his arms he cradled a dead hare, which he looked at steadfastly. Then he stood up, walked around the room holding the dead hare in his arms, and held it up close to the pictures on the walls; he seemed to be talking to it. Sometimes he broke off his tour and, still holding the dead creature, stepped over a withered fir tree that lay in the middle of the gallery. All this was done with indescribable tenderness and great concentration.”

Heiner Stachelhaus, Joseph Beuys , Abbeville Press, New York, 1987, (Translated by David Britt), p. 135.


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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby BIGBEE » Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:14 am

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jim lambie, really worried this was already posted and I missed it somehow :P
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby 3hunna » Tue May 19, 2015 11:27 am

Margiela and Malevich
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Kazimir Malevich, Female Torso, 1933 and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal S/S 2014

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Kazimir Malevich, Two Figures and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal A/W 2013

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Kazimir Malevich, Two Male Figures, 1932 and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal A/W 2012

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Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela A/W 2009

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Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela A/W 2012

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Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2011

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Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2009
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby areo » Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:10 pm

I think that it might be going a bit far to say that those Craig Green knits could only ever have been influenced by boro, or even that they're exactly the same thing. Personally, when I think of boro, I think of a much larger amount of much smaller pieces of fabric. To my mind, the jumpers above look much more like Comme des Garcons, particularly some of the things from ss and aw 83 (more images in spoiler):

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Spoiler:
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Photo from 1997, don't know about the dress
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More recently, they also remind me of Tao Kurihara's line for CDG:

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Spoiler:
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Obviously, those things don't look entirely the same as the knits that we're talking about, but I just wanted to make the point that there might be something else going on other than boro. Also, I'm sure that Rei Kawakubo and Tao Kurihara were/are in some way influenced by boro, but it seems to me that the influence of boro on Craig Green is definitely mediated by a lot of other work, i.e. (maybe!) some of the things that I've put in this post.
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby areo » Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:25 pm

I see where you're coming from, but I doubt that a designer who is inspired by workwear, eastern shapes, kimonos, religious dress and simple fabrics is going to be uninterested in 'classic' Japanese fashion, e.g. CDG. Could you maybe elaborate on why he is adamantly not going to be referencing CDG? I'm not necessarily saying that his work is a direct translation of the images that I'm referring to, just that it doesn't look to me like it's a direct translation from boro either, so there must be something inbetween. Not "oh there's ss83 again!" but also not "oh, boro!"
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby areo » Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:55 pm

Again, I see what you're saying, and I don't want to sound like I'm banging on about the same thing over and over again... but I just don't really think that you can separate eastern capital F fashion from these shapes, forms and attitudes to gender. I mean even mentioning those two sets of things in conjunction is to describe why someone like Rei Kawakubo is famous: deconstructing ideas about form, gender, etc. through the use of traditional (Japanese) shapes and techniques. Even if he hadn't picked up a fashion magazine before going to university, he definitely picked up a few while he was there, and he probably still does now. I think that it's probably quite difficult for a fashion designer now to explore shapes, forms and attitudes to gender by looking at 'eastern' models without thinking a little about the work that has been done before by Comme des Garcons etc. I guess that my point isn't really about Craig Green any more, it's more to say that I don't think that fashion design is done in a vacuum. Even if someone isn't the type to deliberately make a collection in reference to another designer, I don't think think that design is such a one way process that you can totally and forever avoid thinking about what else has been done.
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby odradek » Sat Jun 13, 2015 3:12 pm

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby blanket » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:39 am

maggie howell ss16
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby blanket » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:58 am

some actual references

pol chambost and rafjil aw09
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kazimir malevich and chanel aw03 (imo feels quite incongruous, lazily done)
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby bels » Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:14 am

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Jeff Simons AW16
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Oucho

Our Our Syeknom wrote:@oucho is that Raf's Prada coat?

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Looks great



We are THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS HERE PEOPLE
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Lorcan » Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:02 pm

book, published 1998
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From Amazon:
Eighteen creepy, icky, and downright weird faces by artists Charles Burns and Gary Panter have been cut up and bound into Facetasm, so you can mix and match to your heart's content, exploring more than 7,000 possible mutations. From robots to monsters to things that look like mutant rejects from some twisted Disney cartoon, the faces are strange enough before you start mixing them up, but once you begin flipping you'll be hooked. There's even a space on the back page for your own photo, so you can see what you'd look like with a new hairdo. Or fangs. Facetasm is good old-fashioned fun with a healthy dose of the avant-garde, and giving it to your kids is like inviting William Burroughs to baby-sit. A good thing. --Simon Leake


and uhhh Facetasm (2007-)

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Lorcan » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:02 pm

On further googling, it seems Charles Burns is quite a well-known cartoonist who's done some really interesting looking graphic novels. Anyone read any of this stuff?

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The Black Hole cover with the eyes blocked out is very Facetasm

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Actually I find it cool/interesting that a lot of streetwear brands are inspired by comics and 90s graphics design in a really obvious way, but with Facetasm you wouldn't guess where the flintstone came from.
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Bonobonobo » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:33 am

Sasquatchfabrix

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http://www.spoon-tamago.com/2014/05/06/ ... i-war-ads/

I only really found out about this because the name of the clothing happened to be "korosuna jacket" which made it easy to google. For some reason it makes me feel paranoid (best way I can describe it) about how I probably miss the references and influences of a lot the clothing I admire or wear. Not that I would get a jacket without knowing the meaning of the words on the back, but when it comes to abstract graphics and the like it's very easy to have no idea of their context, or misinterpret entirely. I guess it bothers me because appreciating something meaningful purely because it looks cool seems to be a disservice to the meaning and also the designer's intent.

I don't know, do you guys find it's a disservice, offensive, or superficial? (might be better to ask in random fashion thoughts)
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Mon Aug 29, 2016 1:05 pm

imo if you're wearing a garment like this, it sort of implies it's own politics regardless of those of the wearer. So not really a disservice to appreciate it purely for the aesthetics because the designer's intent/politics of the piece/history attached are all still there for everyone else to interpret.

i wouldn't say it's superficial but i would say it matters more in the case of appropriating religious iconography/culturally sensitive/sacred themes
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Bobbin.Threadbare » Sat Sep 10, 2016 7:31 pm

Lorcan wrote:On further googling, it seems Charles Burns is quite a well-known cartoonist who's done some really interesting looking graphic novels. Anyone read any of this stuff?

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The Black Hole cover with the eyes blocked out is very Facetasm

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Actually I find it cool/interesting that a lot of streetwear brands are inspired by comics and 90s graphics design in a really obvious way, but with Facetasm you wouldn't guess where the flintstone came from.


Such a late reply but yeah Black hole is a pretty big (size wise and popularity) book in the graphic novel world. I absolutely love it and the illustration is really great.
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby saveed_samir » Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:16 am

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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Julio » Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:03 am

Sam wrote:
Sam wrote:Image

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"UNIFORM", Heron Preston, September 2016

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“Work Wear: Garment and Textile Archive 2008-2016”, Sterling Ruby, March 2016


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L.A.P.D. Uniforms, Chris Burden, 1994

A more fitting reference for Heron Preston??


earliest instance of this "full ensemble on a hanger" i've come across is the Felt Suit by Joseph Beuys (1970)
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Re: Designers & Their References

Postby oucho » Mon Jan 09, 2017 12:22 pm

JW Anderson
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gardening trousers
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I've seen pairs with the exact same quilting before too but can't find any pics online
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