Designers & Their References

Clothes

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:09 pm

Image
Image

yeah pretty sure i was super wrong about the craig thing oh well
  • 6

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby blanket » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:39 am

maggie howell ss16
ImageImage
  • 17

User avatar
blanket
 
Posts: 231
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 5:11 am
Reputation: 2945

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby blanket » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:58 am

some actual references

pol chambost and rafjil aw09
Image
Image Image
Image Image

kazimir malevich and chanel aw03 (imo feels quite incongruous, lazily done)
Image
Image Image Image
  • 11

User avatar
blanket
 
Posts: 231
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 5:11 am
Reputation: 2945

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Wed Jan 20, 2016 9:47 pm

Image

Walter Van Beirendonck F/W16

Image

Vertical-Horizontal Composition 1918 by Sophie Taeuber-Arp.


I reblogged that Taeuber-Arp piece on tumblr in April of last year and thought "wow that's so walter" and here we are!

I love how he's given his figure a penis. So funny!!
  • 12

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby bels » Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:14 am

Image
Jeff Simons AW16
Image
Oucho

Our Our Syeknom wrote:@oucho is that Raf's Prada coat?

Image

Looks great



We are THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS HERE PEOPLE
  • 17

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4915
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18059

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:44 am

This one's a long shot but it's the first thing I thought of.


Image Image


Comme Des Garcons (1990) vs loeowe by J.W. Anderson (2015)
  • 6

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Lorcan » Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:02 pm

book, published 1998
Image

From Amazon:
Eighteen creepy, icky, and downright weird faces by artists Charles Burns and Gary Panter have been cut up and bound into Facetasm, so you can mix and match to your heart's content, exploring more than 7,000 possible mutations. From robots to monsters to things that look like mutant rejects from some twisted Disney cartoon, the faces are strange enough before you start mixing them up, but once you begin flipping you'll be hooked. There's even a space on the back page for your own photo, so you can see what you'd look like with a new hairdo. Or fangs. Facetasm is good old-fashioned fun with a healthy dose of the avant-garde, and giving it to your kids is like inviting William Burroughs to baby-sit. A good thing. --Simon Leake


and uhhh Facetasm (2007-)

Image
Image
Image
  • 13

User avatar
Lorcan
 
Posts: 118
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2014 12:55 pm
Location: UK
Reputation: 1471

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Lorcan » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:02 pm

On further googling, it seems Charles Burns is quite a well-known cartoonist who's done some really interesting looking graphic novels. Anyone read any of this stuff?

Image
The Black Hole cover with the eyes blocked out is very Facetasm

Image

Actually I find it cool/interesting that a lot of streetwear brands are inspired by comics and 90s graphics design in a really obvious way, but with Facetasm you wouldn't guess where the flintstone came from.
  • 9

User avatar
Lorcan
 
Posts: 118
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2014 12:55 pm
Location: UK
Reputation: 1471

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Bonobonobo » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:33 am

Sasquatchfabrix

Image

http://www.spoon-tamago.com/2014/05/06/ ... i-war-ads/

I only really found out about this because the name of the clothing happened to be "korosuna jacket" which made it easy to google. For some reason it makes me feel paranoid (best way I can describe it) about how I probably miss the references and influences of a lot the clothing I admire or wear. Not that I would get a jacket without knowing the meaning of the words on the back, but when it comes to abstract graphics and the like it's very easy to have no idea of their context, or misinterpret entirely. I guess it bothers me because appreciating something meaningful purely because it looks cool seems to be a disservice to the meaning and also the designer's intent.

I don't know, do you guys find it's a disservice, offensive, or superficial? (might be better to ask in random fashion thoughts)
  • 1

User avatar
Bonobonobo
 
Posts: 119
Joined: Mon May 02, 2016 1:02 am
Location: CA
Reputation: 623

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Mon Aug 29, 2016 1:05 pm

imo if you're wearing a garment like this, it sort of implies it's own politics regardless of those of the wearer. So not really a disservice to appreciate it purely for the aesthetics because the designer's intent/politics of the piece/history attached are all still there for everyone else to interpret.

i wouldn't say it's superficial but i would say it matters more in the case of appropriating religious iconography/culturally sensitive/sacred themes
  • 2

ig: hharrissonn
tumblr: nopastlives.tumblr.com
User avatar
hharrissonn
 
Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:35 pm
Location: CA, USA
Reputation: 981

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Fri Sep 09, 2016 8:02 pm

Image

Image

"UNIFORM", Heron Preston, September 2016

Image

Image

“Work Wear: Garment and Textile Archive 2008-2016”, Sterling Ruby, March 2016
  • 6

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Bobbin.Threadbare » Sat Sep 10, 2016 7:31 pm

Lorcan wrote:On further googling, it seems Charles Burns is quite a well-known cartoonist who's done some really interesting looking graphic novels. Anyone read any of this stuff?

Image
The Black Hole cover with the eyes blocked out is very Facetasm

Image

Actually I find it cool/interesting that a lot of streetwear brands are inspired by comics and 90s graphics design in a really obvious way, but with Facetasm you wouldn't guess where the flintstone came from.


Such a late reply but yeah Black hole is a pretty big (size wise and popularity) book in the graphic novel world. I absolutely love it and the illustration is really great.
  • 1

User avatar
Bobbin.Threadbare
 
Posts: 924
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:07 pm
Location: London
Reputation: 6025

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Sun Sep 11, 2016 1:49 pm

Image

J.W. Anderson x Grindr January 2016

Image

HBA x Pornhub September 2016
  • 4

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby saveed_samir » Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:16 am

Image

Image
  • 5

User avatar
saveed_samir
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:29 pm
Reputation: 1389

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Sun Oct 02, 2016 1:03 pm

Sam wrote:Image

Image

"UNIFORM", Heron Preston, September 2016

Image

Image

“Work Wear: Garment and Textile Archive 2008-2016”, Sterling Ruby, March 2016


Image

L.A.P.D. Uniforms, Chris Burden, 1994

A more fitting reference for Heron Preston??
  • 6

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Sun Oct 02, 2016 1:07 pm

ImageImage

Celine SS17, Yves Klein Anthropometries.

ImageImage

Celine SS17, Givenchy Couture 1997.
  • 7

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:28 pm

Image
Rick Owens Rizzoli Book

NSFW under spoiler
Spoiler:
Image
Lisa Lyon by Robert Mapplethorpe

sorry for the bad pic it's the only one I can find.
  • 4

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Sam » Fri Jan 06, 2017 10:37 pm

I think Rick is a fan...

Both pics under spoiler NSFW

Spoiler:
Image
Rick Owens F/W06 Dustulator foldout

Image
Jim and Tom, Sausalito, 1977 by Robert Mapplethorpe
  • 7

Image
User avatar
Sam
 
Posts: 1343
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:02 pm
Location: Boumemouth
Reputation: 7756

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby Julio » Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:03 am

Sam wrote:
Sam wrote:Image

Image

"UNIFORM", Heron Preston, September 2016

Image

Image

“Work Wear: Garment and Textile Archive 2008-2016”, Sterling Ruby, March 2016


Image

L.A.P.D. Uniforms, Chris Burden, 1994

A more fitting reference for Heron Preston??


earliest instance of this "full ensemble on a hanger" i've come across is the Felt Suit by Joseph Beuys (1970)
Image
  • 8

Julio
 
Posts: 215
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2015 5:06 pm
Reputation: 1656

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby oucho » Mon Jan 09, 2017 12:22 pm

JW Anderson
Image

gardening trousers
Image Image

I've seen pairs with the exact same quilting before too but can't find any pics online
  • 8

Image
User avatar
oucho
 
Posts: 496
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:34 pm
Location:          ⃝     ⃝              ⃝     ⃝              ⃝      ⃝            ⃝          ⃝    ⃝
Reputation: 3625

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby jujumaster » Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:06 pm

Henrik Vibskov AW17

Image

Gladiators 1992

Image
  • 6

User avatar
jujumaster
 
Posts: 178
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2015 4:18 pm
Reputation: 783

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby blanket » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:02 am

raf simons for ck
Image

monokini, Rudi Gernreich, 1964
Image

Commentary : Retrospective Keeps Alive the Gernreich Genius for Controversy
August 02, 1985, LA Times

It has been 21 years since Rudi Gernreich devised the topless swimsuit, and still the controversy rages. The swimsuit has outlived Gernreich, who died April 21, and it will probably outlive everyone reading this, because it has been sealed in a time capsule (between a birth control pill and a Bible) that will not be exhumed for generations.

more in spoiler
But Gernreich explained why he designed the suit: "Every girl I knew was offended by the dirty-little-boy attitude of the American male toward the American bosom. I was aware that the great masses of the world would find the topless shocking and immoral. I couldn't help feel the implicit hypocrisy that made something in one culture immoral and in another perfectly acceptable."


Spoiler:
The controversy now is whether the topless will be shown on a model (live and bare breasted) at the Gernreich retrospective Aug. 13 at the Wiltern Theatre.

After a decade of topless barmaids, nude beachniks, sexually explicit films and centerfolds--not to mention a Pilobolus ballet performed at UCLA's Royce Hall by male dancers without clothes--a moment's look at a model with uncovered breasts could not be cause for chaos. Or could it?

It is. Members of the Los Angeles Fashion Group, who are producing the gala to benefit the Rudi Gernreich Design Scholarship Fund, cannot agree on how to show the 1964 suit.

Gernreich's famous sooty-eyed model, Peggy Moffitt--who wore the suit for a photograph taken by her husband, William (Bill) Claxton, but never in a show--has said she will resign from the committee if the topless is modeled live on the Wiltern Theatre stage.

"Rudi did the suit as a social statement," said Moffitt, who is creative director of the event.

"It was an exaggeration that had to do with setting women free," she said. "It had nothing to do with display, and the minute someone wears it to show off her body, you've negated the entire principle of the thing. I modeled it for a photograph, which was eventually published around the world, because I believed in the fashion statement. Also, because the three of us--Rudi, Bill and I--felt that the photograph presented the statement accurately. I was offered $15,000 to let Playboy publish that photograph of me in the suit. I turned it down as unthinkable."

Sarah Worman, vice president of Robinson's and regional director of the Fashion Group, disagrees.

"I can't believe this; it's 1964 all over again," she said. "I agree the suit was a social statement--the most prophetic ever made by any designer in the world. It was his most brilliant concept, and from it grew all sorts of things we now take for granted. Why take the single most important idea he ever had--the one that changed the way women dressed all over the Western world--and refuse to show it on a model, when we are showing everything else he ever did on live models?"

The irony of this controversy is, as it always was, that the surface of Gernreich's genius is camouflaging the substance of it.

In the world of fashion, only a few designers anywhere can claim to have come up with anything original, much less anything original that lasts beyond their own life span. And Gernreich, the Viennese-born quintessential Californian, is at the top of the list.

Although widely revered by fashion insiders for his genius, he never really got the measure of public homage he deserved from the millions of women who directly benefited from his insights. Most who know his name associate it with the topless--and not with the idea behind it or the progress in women's fashion that it spawned.

But Gernreich explained why he designed the suit: "Every girl I knew was offended by the dirty-little-boy attitude of the American male toward the American bosom. I was aware that the great masses of the world would find the topless shocking and immoral. I couldn't help feel the implicit hypocrisy that made something in one culture immoral and in another perfectly acceptable."

His topless was an artistic statement against women as sex objects, much as Picasso painted "Guernica" as a statement against war.

Whether he would have wanted it shown on a live model seems irrelevant. He would undoubtedly have appreciated public acknowledgment, at last, that his suit profoundly affected women's way of dress.

From the topless concept he proceeded in his philosophic fashion meanderings to create the "no-bra" bra. It was the first soft, unconstructed, natural-fitting bra. And the two statements together signaled the end of American bosoms buttressed like bridges, the end of women trussed up like Christmas turkeys in undergarments designed to mold them, like plastic, into caricatures of the female form.

His no-bra was the prototype of all the contemporary bras on the market. And at the time, it saved the life of the American undergarment industry, which was faced with masses of rebellious women who would rather go braless than settle for the insulting harnesses they'd had to accept for years.

Topless Swimsuit Causes Commotion, Chicago Tribune, 1964
  • 6

User avatar
blanket
 
Posts: 231
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 5:11 am
Reputation: 2945

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby oucho » Mon Oct 23, 2017 11:39 am

Image
Image


Image
Image

pics are from the musee du quai branly, I don't remember but I think the outfits were from Southern China/Nepal
  • 8

Image
User avatar
oucho
 
Posts: 496
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:34 pm
Location:          ⃝     ⃝              ⃝     ⃝              ⃝      ⃝            ⃝          ⃝    ⃝
Reputation: 3625

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:45 am

Alex Olson's use of Gay Culture in Bianca has always been interesting to me. I don't really know how he identifies, but how Loud and Proud a lot of the imagery in his stuff is has always kind of given me pause since he really isn't like, active in The Community in a recognizable way. Especially the Paris is Burning/Octavia Saint Laurent stuff, given how exploitative we know that particular piece of media was. The individuals who appeared in the doc were not compensated and basically treated as tragedy porn for voyeuristic filmmakers, and in recent years White Gays have really begun to latch onto this documentary/the scene it portrays in a way that's disingenuous to the people who created the scene/culture. Still a hugely important piece of media, but not without it's problems. This isn't really formatted in a way that makes sense but it's something I've thought about a lot. Side note, I do have a soft spot for the Lust tees because Rush makes a good product.

Image
Bianca Chandon Lust Tee

Image
Rush Original Isobutyl Nitrite

Image
Bianca Chandon Lips Tee

Image
Gran Fury Kiss In Poster, 1988

Image
Bianca Chandon Legendary Tee

Image
Bianca Chandon Legendary Deck

Image
Paris is Burning, featuring Octavia Saint Laurent
  • 11

ig: hharrissonn
tumblr: nopastlives.tumblr.com
User avatar
hharrissonn
 
Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:35 pm
Location: CA, USA
Reputation: 981

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby _Organism » Wed Nov 01, 2017 11:39 am

@hharrissonn I found this video where he talks about his influences more, it sounds like he's trying to co-opt disco culture and rebel from traditional skateboarding machismo and has been using a shit load of gay culture/imagery to do so, which strikes me as sort of weird? Like I don't want to speculate on his sexuality, but it seems really strange to me to be so dedicated to the theme when he isn't outwardly lgbt. Makes me wonder how the normalization of homophobia in skate culture plays into his choices.
  • 4

User avatar
_Organism
 
Posts: 57
Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2016 3:59 pm
Reputation: 421

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Wed Nov 01, 2017 12:50 pm

@_Organism "I've never been to Fire Island" is a very concise way of establishing the brand identity of Bianca. I get what he's trying to do, and I respect that he has a genuine interest in the fashion/music/culture of the disco era and early gay lib movement, but the way he's executing the references is, to put it lightly, haphazard. There's an irreverence to all of this that really undercuts the long history of violence and racism and struggle and loss and depression that is impossible to remove from these themes/this imagery. If you want to engage with the history, and then sell that history, you need to engage with it more carefully and holistically. I don't think the brand should be fixated on the tragic/violent aspects of the culture, or portray them for shock value, but at least acknowledging that people literally died for this imagery to exist would be respectful.

Image
Paradise Garage Neon Sign

Image
Bianca Chandon Paradise Garage Tee

Image
Bianca Chandon (maybe the first season?) Welcome to Fire Island Tee, Back Graphic

Image
Alex Olson wears a Bianca Chandon Fire Island Tee

Image
Fire Island Polaroid by Tom Bianchi, Late 1970's

As far as the normalization of homophobia in skateboarding, I see how this is could be used as a response to that, but it's done in a way that feels more tongue-in-cheek than serious, which I really don't like. Having grown up skateboarding/immersing myself in that scene, I know firsthand how pervasive the homophobia is, and it kept me in the closet much, MUCH longer than I would have liked to have been. If Alex is making other LGBT people more comfortable in the scene, and is inspiring kids to be true to themselves, I think that's great, but I don't think using the culture as essentially a prop/for the sake of being contrarian is all that valuable.

In closing:
  • 18

ig: hharrissonn
tumblr: nopastlives.tumblr.com
User avatar
hharrissonn
 
Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:35 pm
Location: CA, USA
Reputation: 981

Re: Designers & Their References

Postby hharrissonn » Sat Feb 10, 2018 1:35 pm

Image
https://enoughtohold.tumblr.com/post/170659958646/activists-with-the-lesbian-avengers-seemingly-at
"Activists with the Lesbian Avengers, seemingly at the first New York Dyke March, June 1993. Via the Lesbian Avengers website:

Founded in 1992, the Lesbian Avengers were a direct action group focused on lesbian visibility and survival. Too impatient for lobbying or letter-writing, these fire-eating secretaries, students, cab drivers, journalists, artists and teachers joined together to create fabulous street actions that inserted lesbians into public life, forced political change, and redefined dykes as the coolest, most ferocious, girls on the block.

Photo by Carolina Kroon."

Image
Image

Supreme SS13 Fuck Denim Jacket & Tote
  • 14

ig: hharrissonn
tumblr: nopastlives.tumblr.com
User avatar
hharrissonn
 
Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:35 pm
Location: CA, USA
Reputation: 981

Previous

Return to Tags

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests