GD

Runway & Lookbooks

Re: ramdom fashion thoughts

Postby drawes » Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:39 am

This might be my least favorite Ervell season. The cool, sportsy vibe is gone for me.
  • 0

User avatar
drawes
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:36 pm
Location: Dallas
Reputation: 36

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:09 pm

yeah it was mostly forgettably but the first few jackets are pretty good realisations of that patagonia style fleece

Image
Image

this look
Spoiler:
Image

reminded me of this (side by side the similarities aren't as strong as i'd thought), which made me kind of sad because 2009-2010 ervell was strong as hell
Spoiler:
Image


thom browne was cool but lacked some of the creepiness and campness that i look for in his women's
Image
Image
Image
Image

still a bazillion times better than the rest of nyfw
  • 1

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby starfox64 » Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:29 pm

OH MY GOD

  • 1

"Authorities say the phony Pope can be recognized by his high-top sneakers and incredibly foul mouth."
User avatar
starfox64
 
Posts: 1143
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:41 am
Location: your mom
Reputation: 2121

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:15 pm

Not really worth posting Jeremy Scott but i actually quite like these graphics
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... RTW-JSCOTT
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Proenza Schouler had some cool bits but i'm bored of the super structured arms, nipped in waist thing that's everywhere
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... -PSCHOULER
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Lacoste was cool, i dig that they do a show
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... TW-LACOSTE
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
  • 0

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby sknss » Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:49 pm

Why is Lacoste showing in NYC and not Paris?
  • 1

User avatar
sknss
2015 Summer Camp Participant
 
Posts: 1431
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:26 am
Reputation: 6425

Re: GD

Postby prawnzee » Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:41 pm

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

this is all I've seen of Dana Lee S/S 2014, I guess more should be released soonish. looks like the stuff she has been doing from the start, nothing too divergent. personally I'm still interested in getting a waffle jacket, the new color looks nice. anyone have any more pics?
  • 8

ice cream, flowers and pussy
User avatar
prawnzee
 
Posts: 391
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:25 am
Location: Kuopio, Finland
Reputation: 2661

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:50 pm

  • 4

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby rublev » Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:00 pm

Damn some of that Facetasm stuff is v cool.
  • 0

User avatar
rublev
Political Editor
 
Posts: 989
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:57 pm
Reputation: 4232

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:10 am

  • 5

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby maj » Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:22 pm

is it just my biased leaning or are london based designers absalutely dominating the scene right now, younger designers are also gaining traction at what seems to be a faster pace as well as being more of them.
  • 0

Major General John "Hacks" Dunning (Viscount Windsor) aka peak angry nerd
User avatar
maj
 
Posts: 1403
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 5:44 pm
Location: the midlands (woo)
Reputation: 8714

Re: GD

Postby Syeknom » Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:25 pm

Feels like London's been gaining a lot of steam these last few years. Reckon being a "lesser" show city - though still important - gives designers and organisers more freedom away from the star studded lineups of Paris or Milan. Lot of young talent bursting from the UK too.
  • 0

User avatar
Syeknom
 
Posts: 2109
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:48 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Reputation: 7983

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Sat Jun 14, 2014 9:55 pm

London has a great support network in place with newgen, man, fashion east etc. it means that new labels can feasibly have half a dozen seasons worth of bfc funding to establish themselves. This doesnt really exist in milan, where, thanks to the more fragile italian economy, designers are seeking out an older, more conservative customer to pay the bills. This isnt really a viable longterm strategy though because it only serves to give the labels a stodgy image. It's telling that Burberry have moved to london - Bailey has built the brand on a young, sexy image, something milan can no longer provide. "London" - the idea, the brand - is super popular in the (lucrative) middle and far east markets right now - it's no coincidence that burb are doing london streetmap prints this season, and have been trading on london stereotypes for a few seasons.

It also helps that london menswear is shown separately from the women's (something the increasingly bloated nyfw needs to replicate) and is shown first in the schedule. The early scheduling means that audiences arent suffering from fatigue and overexposure, their ideas seem fresher, and crucially their products are the first in stores. It's june and the christophers' stock is trickling in already. I bet many casual consumers arent going to wait four months for the third rick owens delivery to arrive - they buy the first cool jacket they try on.

And finally, like syeknom says paris suffers from its own reputation. Its position as the creme de la creme means it's harder for newer brands to infiltrate.
  • 8

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby JonjoShelvey » Tue Jun 17, 2014 9:22 pm

was reading somewhere on sufu that lux-sportswear is reaching critical mass, especially out of london. do yall agree?
  • 0

User avatar
JonjoShelvey
 
Posts: 388
Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:52 am
Reputation: 1689

Re: GD

Postby rublev » Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:30 am

London is great etc, and it's important, but I find it really easy to dislike as a scene. Is that just me?

Maybe it's just cos every time i'm there they put my Scottish money under one of those scanners :(
  • 2

User avatar
rublev
Political Editor
 
Posts: 989
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:57 pm
Reputation: 4232

Re: GD

Postby rublev » Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:31 am

Anyway, here's some stuff from the Antwerp academy show that finished at the weekend.

Image

Lina Rosquist

Image

Flora Seierl

Image

Image

Raffaela Graspointner (remember seeing her stuff last year and it looked incredible... this is just as good)

Image

Kristina Kharlashkina

Image

Eran Shanny

Image

Clara Jungman

:woop:
  • 6

User avatar
rublev
Political Editor
 
Posts: 989
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:57 pm
Reputation: 4232

Re: GD

Postby CleanThug » Wed Jun 18, 2014 1:27 pm

It's kind of overwhelming getting into shows when never seeing any before. Is it necessary to check out earlier shows and if so any resources lying around the interwebs?
  • 2

User avatar
CleanThug
 
Posts: 336
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:23 am
Location: I'm so Northern California
Reputation: 807

Re: GD

Postby can- » Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:53 am

someone post raf and rick I'm on a train
  • 0

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2984
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11288

Re: GD

Postby Bobbin.Threadbare » Thu Jun 26, 2014 10:31 am

The hype train.
  • 11

User avatar
Bobbin.Threadbare
 
Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:07 pm
Location: London
Reputation: 6041

Re: GD

Postby bels » Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:10 am

Flowy summerweight long coats and trews with some sort of modified top block (splash of colour being a fav) seem to be all over these menswear collections.
  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4997
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18469

Re: GD

Postby Vaeltaja » Sat Jun 28, 2014 5:38 pm

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/99339475[/vimeo]

Enjoyed the _Julius runway. He seems to be "maturing" for better or worse, if that's what we're going to call the clean lines look. He seems to suffer from the problem he had last s/s where there wasn't really anything interesting. F/W is a definite strong point to the collection, and s/s is a lot more boring. However, it seems very wearable. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I see people where this stuff with other brands like Dior.
  • 0

Last edited by germinal on Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Fixed vimeo
Wanna redneck? I'll do him an egg. NO SYMPY!
<Reverend> IRC is just multiplayer notepad.
User avatar
Vaeltaja
 
Posts: 487
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:37 am
Location: LA or Ohio
Reputation: 1581

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:54 pm

http://blogs.independent.co.uk/2014/06/ ... -in-paris/

Creativity, commerce, and choking tradition: Dior Homme, Hermes, loeowe, Thom Browne in Paris
By Alex Fury

If you ascend Paris’ Eiffel tower – say, during a free moment during the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows – you can look out on a vista relatively unchanged from the first day the tower was opened in 1889, of Baron Haussmann’s neoclassical façades and wide avenues. French law ensures that: Second Empire plans are in many cases more or less followed, with “alignement” law still in place to regulates a building’s height according to the width of the streets it borders.

It’s fabulous for a sight-seer who gets to step back in time, almost. But many argue it’s choking the development of the city as a whole. Personally, I see a parallel with much of Paris fashion, where tradition can often choke creativity.
Spoiler:
Kris Van Assche quoted the words of Christian Dior who, despite making the world look new, was a reactionary fashion designer with a resolutely traditional view of fashion. His silhouettes were inspired by his mother’s Belle Epoque heyday, and the construction methods behind his clothes came straight from the nineteenth century. “In troubled times like ours,” said Dior, “We must maintain these traditions, which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation.”

Dior’s troubled times were the atmosphere of a Paris immediately post occupation, with fabric and food shortages strife. You wonder what could be troubling Van Assche, and also what traditions he maintaining. The slim Dior suiting was in place, innocuous in navy. But the denim dotted into their show didn’t look traditional at all, certainly not for Dior. Neither did the simplistic scribble graphics nor handwriting print. They didn’t feel luxurious, nor worth maintaining.

The trouble with Van Assche’s Dior is that there was no specific, coherent message. The pinstripe suits and slack-crotched jeans worn with unappealing snub-toed trainers had no thread to link them, bar that stitching the label Dior into the back. Abstracted, individual garments had appeal. As a whole, it was a bit of a mess.

Contrast that with Hermes, designed by Véronique Nichanian for over 25 years. Nichanian offers a complete, concise wardrobe for her man. And there are plenty of them, you imagine. Because the appeal of her compact suiting, her printed shirts veiled in cotton voile, her easy silk chiné floral trousers in shades of sage or ochre, and a couple of chain-knitted nubuck cardigans, is plain to see. They’re expensive clothes that look expensive, but don’t shout about it. There’s nothing tricky about them, nothing complicated. But they’re well designed, with geeky details that blokes so often fetishise. I couldn’t get over the piecing around the zip and collar of a bomber jacket that allowed a slither of transparency, to give a hint of the skin underneath. It gave a feel of the body, a sly sensuality, an odd sexiness to an otherwise almost-utilitarian garment. It also just looked really good.

The appeal of Nichanian’s design is that she knows when to stop. Generally, there’s little that’s over-designed on an Hermes men’s rail, and nothing that feels unwarranted or unwearable. I’m sure even a crocodile hooded jacket will find a buyer or two somewhere.

Creativity versus commerce is a question that frequently crops up in fashion. The “versus” is the odd bit, as if designers always have to make a choice between one or the other. It is possible to be a creative designer and sell. In fact, it’s kind of vital. Jonathan Anderson, who designs as JW Anderson in London and has taken the reigns of loeowe in Paris, understand that. His loeowe was a triumph, not of either discipline, but of the marriage between the two. This was commerce with creativity, or even creativity facilitating commerce.

What Anderson is doing is very, very clever. He’s pulled out and reissued pieces from the loeowe archives – like a cuboid cushion from 2001, or a cross hatched suitcase from the 1940s – acting as curator rather than creative director. Basically, that’s establishing the history of the house, which has always seemed somewhat murky and buried in its own archives. Then, he’s re-activating that for the present. He’s redesigned the house’s Amazona and Flamenco bags, giving the former a clunkier, trapezoid shape and the latter satisfyingly chunky knots of leather in place of the pom-pom fringes of yore. He’s also designed a great menswear collection of knits, giant felted blankets, funny shoes and covetable leather jackets and blousons. There’s a new tote, and a great backpack called the “Anton”, which is a bit angular and feels like something you haven’t seen before. Anderson was ensconced at the new loeowe HQ to present it to press on Friday – he estimated he’d talked and walked through 87 interviews by the end of the day.

So that’s the creative bit. The commerce? You want to buy almost everything straight away. And you can: a great swathe of that product is available to purchase online now, capitalising on the buzz around Anderson’s appointment and the collection’s unveiling which has proved entirely justified, and then some.

I never quite understand the balance of the creative and the commercial with Thom Browne. His Paris shows – and, in fact, the womenswear he shows in New York – are so blatantly weighted towards spectacle that they are quite unlike anything else in fashion. There’s often a sinister subtext, but it’s not really scary – more sinister like a Hollywood B-movie monster, or a Broadway villain. It’s PT Barnum fashion, with Browne playing it to the cheap seats in the back.

This season, Browne did so with a man-machine mash-up, a weird vignette of cyborg clones almost-identically dressed in idiosyncratic suiting, while models marched out in bizarre get-ups, alternating between anatomical swerves and curves and rigid tailoring pressed into sharp, prismic facets around their swollen biceps and barrel-chests, like C-3PO on steroids.

It doesn’t really matter what Browne shows, if we’re honest. His shows are fabulous, fantastical indulgences. They’re basically Homme Couture. Browne is the very definition of a cult designer – there’s a cultish throng of disciples who only wear Browne, thighs constantly exposed, shirts resolutely unpressed, feet forever clumping in hulking Herman Munster brogues, and they love everything he does.

That’s not to say they’re going to wear this, of course. But Browne has a clever way of watering down his catwalk capers into stuff to fill shops that nonetheless doesn’t entirely abandon its identity.

Browne can indulge himself like this because he’s a supremely talented designer. he’s achieved a rare, rare thing. His signature shrunken suiting – grey, taut across the torso, yanked up at the ankles and wrists – has affected the way an entire generation of men dress. The cropped ankle trouser that has been near-ubiquitous this season can be traced back to him. His clothes changed the proportions of contemporary male wardrobe. So let Browne have his fun and stage his spectacular shows and make everyone smile, or scratch their heads, or even get angry. Because that’s what fashion should do.

Hedi Slimane’s early, early work at Dior Homme – and before that, as menswear designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche – had a similar effect. Those early shows of Slimane’s changed things. Those early shows moved fashion on to somewhere new, and shifted the way we looked at modern masculinity.

Slimane is currently the designer of the rechristened Saint Laurent label, which also showed this evening in Paris.
  • 5

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby can- » Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:29 pm

stop posting your thoughts about a collection in rep comments
  • 4

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2984
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11288

Re: GD

Postby can- » Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:51 pm

Not ina position to post the collection atm but god damn, its crazy how good slp ss15 (and probsbly most slp collections) could be with the smallest amount of restraint. Im not going to presume to know what hedi is going for and any conversation about slp that doesnt begin with a nod to his massive talent bugs me, but man even just pulling half the jewelry could make the collection feel relevant for 2014
  • 1

User avatar
can-
 
Posts: 2984
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:34 pm
Reputation: 11288

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Sat Jul 05, 2014 5:06 pm

I said to @hooplah that i found it uncomfortable that the only black guy in the slp show was cosplaying jimi hendrix and she said
holy shit, wow. yeah. sticks out like a sore thumb

that is pretty depressing. i mean it's obvious that hedi totally fetishizes that sort of drugged out ultra waif white boy rocker look but it's sad that he seems to be unable to envision any people of color in his clothes unless it's a very obvious nod to a black celebrity

no asians or indians either

guess only white people exist in the world of saint laurent... lol :/


I agreed
  • 3

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby mc-lunar » Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:06 pm

I can't find a link, but I know the pics are somewhere in the SLP styleforum thread so I'll dredge them up later but what I wanted to bring up was that one year, Hedi threw (and photographed) an after party for all his models and I believe wrote about how it was his vision of youth culture and it was 100% white. Honestly sickening.
  • 3

Image
User avatar
mc-lunar
 
Posts: 577
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:27 am
Reputation: 3506

Re: GD

Postby mc-lunar » Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:09 am

@teck, found them. Whole photoset from that day can be found here but i'll post a couple group shots so you can see the composition

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


Parker, from SF, had the best reaction
even the telecasters look like they were rented from guitar center for the day.
  • 4

Image
User avatar
mc-lunar
 
Posts: 577
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:27 am
Reputation: 3506

Re: GD

Postby deadkitty » Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:55 am

really cool stuff in Joseph Turvey GIRLS

Image

the rest are below
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
  • 1

space
master
User avatar
deadkitty
 
Posts: 578
Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 5:50 pm
Location: la
Reputation: 2999

Re: GD

Postby germinal » Thu Sep 11, 2014 2:17 pm

Contrary to popular belief, there were actually some decent shows at NYFW, check 'them out:

Telfar
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... ar/telfar/
Sexy, positive clothing for the normcore kids.
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Thom Browne
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... om-browne/
One of his most accomplished women's collection to date; this season Thom's '60s housewife has been plied with hallucinogens by her dodgy shrink and is tripping her way through a neighbourhood BBQ. Peep the hats.
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Altuzarra
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... altuzarra/
A lot of designers at NYFW go for sexy-yet-wearable, but for my money, none does better than Joseph Altuzarra.
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


The Row
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... -wear/row/
A continuation of the previous season, Nadege's final season at The Row before moving to Hermes is solemn and meditative.
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Rodarte
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... r/rodarte/
Flotsam, jetsam, army jackets.
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image


Eckhaus Latta
http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/shows/2 ... latta.html
Something about rust, something about nipples, something about triple tiered trainers
Image
Spoiler:
Image
Image
Image
  • 13

User avatar
germinal
Garminlad
 
Posts: 1282
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:18 pm
Reputation: 5235

Re: GD

Postby bels » Thu Sep 11, 2014 2:40 pm

The Thom Browne woman probably hasn't played much Fallout but she reminds me of tranquility lane

  • 0

Image
User avatar
bels
Yung Winona
 
Posts: 4997
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:43 pm
Reputation: 18469

Re: GD

Postby breakadawn » Sat Sep 13, 2014 5:35 am

Didn't think it merited a new thread, so here's Ovadia & Sons SS15.



Very nice, clean cuts, a pretty good show overall. Loved the music choices.
  • 0

User avatar
breakadawn
 
Posts: 139
Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:16 am
Location: Londinium
Reputation: 376

PreviousNext

Return to Seasonal Collections

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests