Japanese designers

[jujumaster]

Neon Sign by Asuka Hayashi

http://ne-on-sign.com/

SS16

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AW16

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[trasparenti]

Biscuithead by Daisuke Hashizume

biscuithead
is
a
clothing label,
described as fun wearable in pops of colour

F/W 16 - "Reversible"

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S/S 16 "Adjustable"

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F/W 15 "Pocketable"

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Hashizume cut his teeth as a pattern cutter for CDGH+ for 10 years before starting up Biscuithead. He works with the same agency who deal with Margaret Howell Japan, too. You already know the designs are gonna be extremely detailed and forward-thinking, but Hashizume pushes the envelope even further each collection. As you can see, each collection makes use of loud colors (influence from pop art) and some very interesting details. Each collection is conceptually driven and each piece explores these concepts. Hashizume's mission statement:

ビスケットヘッド
1.　ポップで楽しい

2.　コンセプチュアルな

服とそのまわりのものを作るレーベル

It outlines his desire to make clothes that are both fun and follow a seasonal theme. His stockists hopefully will grow soon, I'd love to get hands on with the clothes again. They remind me a lot of Phablic x Kazui in terms of the seasonal themes and fun colors and ideas. I first saw S/S 16 when I visited Waremo-kou in Shibuya (http://www.waremo-kou.jp/) and I was super impressed. I'm pretty sure that there's more to the collections than available on the website but I can't remember. In person, everything is extremely well-made and quite wearable.


http://www.biscuithead.net/

[jujumaster]

Kenta Matsushige AW16

In his Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Japanese fashion designer Kenta Matsushige, balances the art of a polished, minimal aesthetic while paying attention to silhouette. The designer, who honed his skills at Givenchy and Christian Dior Haute Couture studio, is no stranger to pristine technique and meticulous craftsmanship.

Featuring a largely monochromatic color palette, Matsushige has instead focused his attention on perfecting the silhouettes of each piece. Oversized jackets and kimono-like capes took the reigns for the collection’s outerwear, complimented by culottes as well as midi-length dresses and skirts. The designer excelled with his use of crisp winter whites, most notably in the form of classic collared shirts layered underneath more intricate pieces. Evidence of the designer’s avant-garde background shone thanks to his playful use of different fabrics in some of the wrapped pieces and through his use of ultra-high waistlines. The simplicity of the design aesthetic is nothing short of Kenta Matsushige’s genius in statement-making through tailoring.

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[jujumaster]

Salvy AW16

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[trasparenti]

^Salvy; is very good, updated 'workwear' kinda stuff like rdv o globe

MITTAN

inspired by people, history, and designs from all over the world, particularly asia. it's also where they get a lot of their fabric from (artisans in Laos, India, China). Lots of hand-dyed elements, which leads to slight imperfections in each piece - though the construction itself is flawless. They use a lot of nice details like horn or brass buttons, silk thread for sewing, etc. Each piece is made by craftsmen in their employ, and they offer repairs for anything you buy from them. Unfortunately the stockist section of their website isn't working and I can only find a few stockists in places like Shizuoka which is really far away. I did see that Jan Jan Van Essche carries it in his store, which is enough of a seal of approval for me

samples:

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http://mittan.asia/

As you can see, the designs focus on genderless clothing designed to be worn comfortably. Inspired by traditional Japanese garments, as well as other cultures, each item can be worn with other pieces from the collections seamlessly to create a flowing wardrobe. The fabrics are very natural - raw cottons, linens, wools.

[jujumaster]

AW16 by Unused

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[exprof]

hey @transparenti and other friends, you wouldn't happen to know who stocks womens ffixxed? seems like no one is really stocking them

[trasparenti]

My b totally didnt get the notification for this! Palm Maison (http://www.store.palm-jpn.com/fs/palm/c ... XXed_women) is the best one to check. They have a massive selection of items from Ffixxed and similarly amazing brands, both men's and women's collections.

Otherwise, I can recommend my local store, Ovie Studio, maybe Beams International, Hint More Product, Casanova & Co. and a few more have some pieces. Some other people mentioned a few other stores like Crackfloor and they're good too. You can scroll thru the stockists list (http://ffixxed.com/stockists/) and check those out one by one if you have the patience. Generally avoid any Japanese stockist with a blog URL, they prolly don't have an online store. Like someone else said, a lot of the pieces are unisex so unless you're specifically looking for dresses, skirts and so on, any items with appropriate measurements should be fine. Having poked around a bunch of random stockists tho, I can affirm that it seems really hard to find items from their women's collection. dunno why

[Bonobonobo]

Suzuki Takayuki

I don't really know much about this brand but it's at least 14 years old now.

Each collections of Takayuki Suzuki involve concepts of:
Beauty of time.
Decaying beauty.
Beauty of changing.
And the beauty in the process of making

Lots of layering (or layered pieces), subtly distressed/wrinkled textures and natural colors, white and beige, and a sort of a romantic jizz.

[jujumaster]

Name AW16

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[jujumaster]

John Lawrence Sullivan SS17

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[jujumaster]

Kiminori Morishita AW16

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[jujumaster]

DIgawel AW16

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Digawel4 AW16

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[Bonobonobo]

ohta is a brand which seems to focus a lot on prints and patterns, applied to comfy and loose-fitting clothes. You can see themes of abstract art, a hand-painted style, and traditional Japanese art in their clothes.

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Palm Maison carries a lot of their stuff, though it's very expensive!

[jujumaster]

ITTY-BITTY AW16

We make basic items with new balance no one has ever seen.

All items have timeless values at the same time.

There is no point to say “this is the newest style” when the trend is changing all the time.

Everything gets old-fashioned, so keep creating true timeless piece is the best and only way to

impress people all the time.

There are seasons for each collection, but as long as we create the best quality products, they

would be followed even if they are from past seasons.

We do like timeless piece and finding the value in it.

When we say “timeless”, it does not mean “standard” , “continuation” or “basic”, it means

timeless quality, skill, construction, attention, function, aesthetic, etc…

Authentic timeless pieces must be timeless since their first cry. They do not need time to be timeless.

This is what wa are always aiming to create.

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[fun_yunchables]

undecorated man fw16

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[trasparenti]

NOWHAW

"Know-how"

Nowhaw focuses exclusively on sleep- and lounge-wear. They only sell paired items: you can purchase a set-up (read: very casual suit) consisting of a jacket and pants or a coat and shorts. Some set-ups are for sleeping in (soft & comfy) and others are for lounging (sturdier). Either way, it's all pretty cute. The price is pretty reasonable as well, considering that you're getting two items.

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[jujumaster]

Hyke AW16

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[trasparenti]

FABRICS INTERSEASON

Like Edwina and House of the Very Island's, Fabrics was from Europe (Vienna) but they sourced a lot of stuff from and did pretty good business in Japan. I thinnk they're out of business now - their last collection was in 2011 - but it's all timeless.

Archive 98-08 collection (their best work imo, like if Damir Doma only got better and weirder after 2010)

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other bits from collections

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[jujumaster]

Unitus AW16

http://unitus-garments.com/

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[trasparenti]

YEAH RIGHT!!

Yeah Right!! started about 11 years ago, with some aggressively reconstructed pieces inspired by punk music and Vivienne Westwood/Seditionaries (a lot of Japanese brands owe a lot to Viv).

This led to collections focusing on re/deconstruction, which in turn gave way to the current collections - a mature blend of remade pieces and standout items.

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The designer founded the Common Sleeve collective (I believe), a label that assembles different, like-minded brands in order to produce a variety of unrelated pieces with identical zippers at the arms, allowing for tons of variations.

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Yeah Right!! does both men's and women's collections each season, and will also produce one-off items on occasion. These are generally remade items and are usually pretty loose and comfy. They also made a range of accessories, like hats and socks.

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i guess for some reason every time you write y.eah it filters to y.eah? thats quirky

[jujumaster]

Kaptain Sunshine SS17

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[jujumaster]

Nice lookbook for Bukht SS17

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[trasparenti]

Seven By Seven / 7×7



After a period spent in San Fransisco in the 90's, Junya Kawakami moved back to Japan with a love for vintage clothes. In 2013 he began 7x7

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7×7 focuses on denim and heritage-inspired clothing. Lots of carefully sourced fabrics with details like embroidery, distressing and patchwork. There's a lot of variety in the designs, while remaining true to the core ideology of a celebration of all things vintage: 501s get taken apart and restitched, tunics are reimagined in silk, and unisex jewelry is cast out of sturdy silver.

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The western shirt is a very important item to 7×7, as it single-handedly encompasses the idea of old-as-new. For example, the design is faithful to old cowboy shirts but the cut is modern. It's distressed and details to look like a one-of-a-kind thrift store find but it's crafted out of Japanese denim.




The African tailored jacket is sourced from vintage African indigo-dyed cotton. A vintage jacket would normally have a pretty boxy cut but this one is slim and fitted. Again, there's that disparity; the old fabric reworked into a modern cut.

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The brand does a lot of different stuff and the designer is a pretty cool guy. I'm too sleepy to write anything more but here's a cool article (in English!) about the flagship store: https://www.ana-cooljapan.com/columns/?p=1298

[qalandar]

YYF 1983 collection

[jujumaster]

NuGgETS SS17

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[trasparenti]

Clamp is a pretty small brand from Tokyo. They produce a lot of workwear-friendly items (chore coats, overalls, lots of denim) in a variety of unusual silhouettes. For example, a henley might still have three buttons, but they've been shifted to the side instead of being positioned vertically on the chest.

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I actually don't know too much about them. Their sparse website isn't easy to find (it's https://clamp.link/) and the designer's name doesn't come up in brand descriptions; not to mention, they only mention two stockists on their website, one of whom doesn't seem to stock them anymore. According to what I figure out from their mission statement, they take flintstone from connections, things that work together. Their clothes, I think, are intended to tie together a look or a wardrobe by offering a wearable, yet differentiated, take on staple pieces - they're intended to 'connect' with other clothes easily.

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They settle in nicely with other workwear-skewing labels like Class, Salvy;, RDV O GLOBE, and Bukht.

[Julio]

shinya kozuka ss17
unfamiliar brand to me, but cool stuff. particularly strong oversized trousers and denims in some of the earlier seasons.

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these are great; forget what season rn

[jujumaster]

This thread really needs to start a new page because this shit takes forever to load, anyway...

Sasquatchfabrix SS17

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[mellow]

roundabout

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