Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby INNIT » Wed Apr 18, 2018 4:54 am

strong opinion: though i appreciate your feedback and attempts to assert an equilibrium between the roll and the pool, i am anti-pant roll in 99% of circumstances (the remaining 1% being situations relating to the "flood": walking through swamps, an actual flood, etc.). pant rolling is the result of millennials who grew up in skinny jeans "fearing the pool" of wider pants, which are now officially cooler than slim pants. i respect the pool, even though i am one of these aforementioned millennials, and used to roll my pants.

join me

REDACTION: changed "stack" to "pool"
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Re: random fashion jersey tucks

Postby khayandhi » Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:30 am

kremvax wrote:but i dunno, with that, i also wish i couldve written a little more about how a lot of girl/femme-centered fashion sites/spaces always felt like they focused so much on the body/being “flattering” etc which always made me really … weird/much more nervous about dressing than i ever wanted to be. just how Different the conversation is / what all these communities looked like to me as a teenage girl (i still am one i mean but yeah - why male/male-dominated fashion forums, i guess?)


late 2 the party bc I'm hardly here any more* but this was a great bunch of takes and also we talked about some of the female fashion related shit (a little? not as well?) in this old thread here (my personal magnum opus), in case @kremvax or anyone else hasn't seen it

* I got a ""job"" " " "
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby charybdis » Wed Apr 18, 2018 1:44 pm

^^^ that is the best thread on care tags

also wrt that tweet kremvax linked... it makes me think about how femme/women's fashion will always be linked with the idea of beauty and hotness and that's part of where the anxieties about "flattering" in those communities is coming from. like the hypo girl in the tweet is ~not like the other girls~ but he makes sure we know in 180 characters that she has a fat ass. guess we like to say we're liberated but we're really not, myself included lol. do y'all remember that insta account that was just this girl wearing extremely layers of junya + a ski mask. not saying this should be the new feminist wave of doing things (esp since I'm really into the return of deep v shit) but I sometimes wonder about why I can't bring myself to do that you know?

idk currently my only fashion intake is following every single one of this group of fuerdai chinese girls on instagram since they seem to actually have fun. but also like they def share the same plastic surgeon
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby popcorn » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:02 pm

INNIT wrote:pant rolling is the result of millennials who grew up in skinny jeans "fearing the pool" of wider pants, which are now officially cooler than slim pants. i respect the pool, even though i am one of these aforementioned millennials, and used to roll my pants.

join me

I think cuffing, as a mass movement, comes from the "cursory education" mode of internet fashion (e.g. reddit mfa) as opposed to as a membership signal for deeper fashion knowledge. Like, the cuff is a manifest interest in self-improvement and anti-conformity, not an aesthetic ideal. You could consider the cuff as fashion training wheels or you could consider it like listening to Guided By Voices and Joy Division as a surrogate for a deep, involving interest in music theory: a cursory understanding of fashion in operation (silhouette, context, the outfit) is really halfway to comprehension. Realizing you can cuff pants is your first chance at liberation: you can buy un-hemmed pants from basically anywhere and come away with an acceptable silhouette. You can fly now. You are away from the aesthetic poverty of suburbia.

So sure, make pooled pants your aesthetic ideal, but realize that not everyone has an obvious entry point into wide-leg pants. If I uncuffed my Dickies they'd look like a fucking monstrosity. I've still never owned a pair of pants over $60. I'd love to have some proper, cropped Junya Watanbe trou for daily wear, but I don't.

Being anti-cuff, in context, is hurtful. When you ask people to make sure their interface is immaculate you're rejecting everyone still talking on the lawn outside of the ivory tower.

((this looks a bit less humorous than I intended it to be but still stands))
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby INNIT » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:37 pm

popcorn wrote:Being anti-cuff, in context, is hurtful. When you ask people to make sure their interface is immaculate you're rejecting everyone still talking on the lawn outside of the ivory tower.


ADDENDUM TO THE POLEMIC AGAINST "THE ROLL" (i'm doing this instead of writing my thesis):

I DO NOT demand perfect pant/shoe interfaces.

DICKIES look fine uncuffed, thinking otherwise is all in our heads, we have been disciplined to think this way.

CROPPED trousers are fine.

THIS IS NOT NARROW MINDED, because i said so.

THS IS NOT A STANCE OF ELITISM, it is a stance of love.
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby popcorn » Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:19 pm

You're right that it's a positive notion to suggest that all pooled pants are beautiful. But doesn't this positivity towards wide-leg, pooled pants and wide, leather, structurally solid ("dad") footwear naturally signal the death of the slim-cuff and shoe sneaker? The supreme skater of 2015 is now being offered work pants and Wotherspoon 97/1's, while NMDs reach their saturation point. Yeezy 350v2's have dropped from $700, $800 USD to near the $300 line.

Is fashion so sum-zero that bringing jeans and sheux into the overtone window does not expand the window but simply moves it over from where it is? Will kids soon be bullied when their mother buys them a pair of Nike Free 3.0s?
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby fun_yunchables » Wed Apr 18, 2018 4:20 pm

pretty sure dickies died in 2016/2017 and carhartt carpenters have taken the crown for the it-pant of 2018 and as an added bonus they look good pooled, cuffed, and cropped
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby bleeker » Wed Apr 18, 2018 5:10 pm

Kanye's tweet about individualism wryly seems to fit into the earlier discussion of hype and such.
Did he do it consciously à la Patagonyer's "don't buy this jacket" or is he just celebrating himself in some indirect way?

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...is it a critique of his stans?
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby stoogesjacket » Sun Apr 22, 2018 8:41 am

I recently noticed that both Ssense and Totokaelo (among possible others) are now (or have been doing) what they call "editorial content" that usually talks about the clothes they're selling (sometimes a fashion editorial, sometimes a editorial/interview with a musician, sometimes with a pseudo-intellectual bent) but sometimes also talks about things that are not really related to fashion at all like architecture or actual contemporary art. It reminded me of this article on Vestoj (http://vestoj.com/helmut-lang-the-tale- ... -identity/) which if this link is broken talked about the original Helmut Lang store in downtown New York that was designed after an art gallery, complete with works by Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois made just for the space, and how by folding in contemporary art to his store Lang was not only trying to elevate his clothing to the status of contemporary artworks but also trying to circumvent the embarrassment or guilt of luxury consumption by recontextualizing his store as an art gallery instead of, you know, a luxury clothing store.

Which is to say that Ssense and Totokaelo are attempting to do the same thing except on a digital platform instead of a physical location. I'm not sure how successful it is.
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby bels » Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:00 am

Personally firmly against any attempt to inject an 'art' narrative into a retail space.
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby julius » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:56 am

stoogesjacket wrote: [...] It reminded me of this article on Vestoj (http://vestoj.com/helmut-lang-the-tale- ... -identity/) which if this link is broken [...]

The link was broken but that article sounded so interesting I looked to see if there were any archives of it and found this one https://web.archive.org/web/20170501184125/http://vestoj.com/helmut-lang-the-tale-of-a-new-identity/
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Thu May 03, 2018 7:52 pm

i'm not saying i 100% believe that 70% of any outfit is its pant-shoe interaction, but i could definitely make a compelling case for it
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Tue May 08, 2018 12:08 am

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hell yeah dude
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby Julio » Thu May 10, 2018 1:32 am

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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby evilfriends » Wed May 16, 2018 7:20 am

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I'm going to be on the cover of the upcoming DUST Magazine in case anyone wants to check it out, as far as I know there's going to be a lot of cool pictures in it
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby fun_yunchables » Sat May 19, 2018 3:19 am

2017: "lmao thrasher what a poser do u even skate"
2018: "lmao carhartt what a poser do u even build"
2019: ?? ("lmao vineyard vines what a poser can u even threaten to sue/is ur daddy even a lawyer")
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:17 pm

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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby posh_somme » Thu Jun 07, 2018 6:25 pm

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let’s be honest, we’re all surprised this didn’t happen sooner. full irony-wave is just inches away from the high street at this point. we’ve already got the socks built into crocs too. if your collaboration isn’t injected with whimsy then what even is it

my girlfriend told me about her mom knitting her friend a jumper with collars knitted in too. i completely expect that to be in topshop in no time
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby WussWayne » Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:22 pm

"I've been taking pictures of you the whole night" may truly be the worst way for a stranger to start complimenting your style
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F-f-f-firestarter
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You coming on me like a player (WOOF!)
But your game's all wrong
You get your words all twisted
It's the same old song
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby hharrissonn » Mon Jun 11, 2018 2:29 am

Online Ceramics is a Fun T-Shirt Brand to Wear and Think About!

To me, Online Ceramics is the logical answer to Enfants Riches Déprimés. Where ErD has taken Punk Rock and DIY and filtered them through the lens of fashion and pretension and exclusivity to a point of embarrassing and shallow edginess, Online Ceramics has really managed to really seamlessly blend counter-culture and DIY aesthetics into an irreverent and forward-thinking Fashion Product (whether they wanted to or not.) They've fully embraced how absurd their place in the market is, and have really managed to turn T-Shirts into something interesting by not taking themselves too seriously. Something about meshing the Dead Head imagery that they're very transparently riffing off of with Early Internet Aesthetics is super successful in creating an identity and a context for the brand, and the positive messages most of the shirts carry are a really refreshing change of pace from the contrarian, self-hating, pseudo-intellectual shit that has been on trend for a few years now. It's hard to find clothes that say "it's just clothes" while remaining mindful of aesthetics, and Online Ceramics does that for me. It's a literal joke of a "brand," and that only makes it better for my mileage. The look is irreverent, but the message is genuine. Take a breath, appreciate your community, look inward to feel bigger. They're almost sure to be a very temporary blip on the radar of " " Fashion " ", but they're a fun one, and maybe a necessary one. If this shit really takes off be ready to see more rappers in vintage Junya and Kaptial and shit lol. (p.s. someone find me Poem Jeans for under $500)

Love u Lots,
Harrison
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby Julio » Mon Jun 11, 2018 2:18 pm

i remember when junya and kapital were more sleeper-y/cult-y, for lack of better term. i think the biggest instance would be the poem jeans. i don't understand how they shot up to $500. the highest i ever saw them for was about $200, but then this was maybe four or five years ago now. or perhaps my memory fails me.

either way me and a friend agree that the whole poem season is lots and lots of "serial killer jawnz".
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby popcorn » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:57 pm

the air thingy in my air max 97s popped (specifically, the left one) which means i'm slowly watching them die.

but now i have to decide whether or not i'm going to buy the same shoe a second time (they were really good), signaling that i am, finally... old
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby bels » Thu Jun 14, 2018 10:49 pm

Did you at least blow them out on a huge dunk?
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby oucho » Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:57 pm

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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:19 pm

greg lauren is pretty cool as a case study in getting the most mileage out of a single narrowly-defined concept
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:27 pm

the virgil louis vuitton show was... good? nothing i would want to get from the collection personally but i liked it a lot otherwise – feels pretty cohesive as a collection, nowhere near as derivative or sophomoric as off-white can feel sometimes, and with just the right amount of reference to lv's recurring motifs. i could see some calling it "boring" or "plain" considering all the hype around it being virgil's inaugural show but i think that's intentional

highlights for me were the knit sweatervest/tac vest hybrids (loved the bigass zip pockets on everything), the monochrome bags (especially the holster bags and the transparent PVC bags), and especially the wizard of oz stuff at the second half of the show – kind of a cute little nod to virgil's first show, him being "not in kansas anymore", or at least that's how i interpreted it

some looks i liked (feat. carti)
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Spoiler:
i also met lucien smith (the model of look 50) at a dinner for a startup i was interning for and he did coke in the bathroom lol
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby kickingthefly » Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:13 am

my local archival place is screening the margiela doc this week if any london teens are interested
https://www.instagram.com/p/BkUYCM6lokV ... t.archives
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby ramdomthought » Sat Jun 23, 2018 7:55 pm

yohji making daiki's pocket game look amateur

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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby CheerUpBrokeBoy » Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:58 am

it's crazy how much more i like vachement when they do stuff that references the gvasalias' upbringing/culture and not just margiela ripoff Jarvis stuff
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Re: Random Rhetorical Hypebeast Fashion Thoughts

Postby hharrissonn » Tue Jul 03, 2018 4:13 am

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Heron Preston x DSNY

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Heron Preston x NASA

I was reading articles on Ssense (like a dumb baby) and they had one about Heron Preston's collaboration with NASA. While I don't find any of these garments or looks (or most of what Heron Preston does tbf) particularly interesting, I do think fashion brands or garment producing corporations or whatever collaborating with federally funded government agencies is super interesting! Actually, this made me realize that I can't think of any other dedicated Fashion x Government collaborations outside of the original Nike x Tom Sachs Mars Yard Shoe (which used actual Mars Rover textiles provided by NASA if I'm remembering correctly), and the Hugo Boss Nazi Uniforms... Anyways! I'm super curious to know how the funding and profit sharing would be broken down for stuff like this, and how much input the government (in some way, shape, or form) would have as far as the final product goes. I know you can buy NASA and ARMY and WHATEVERTHEFUCKELSE Graphic Tees at Urban Outfitters and Target and Gas Stations and stuff, but that seems like a pretty easy PR move. Slap a logo on a T-Shirt, move on. With a collaboration like this, I wonder how much thought, time, and research goes into decision making on the part of the government. Who's getting paid to make the final decision if it's a good idea for the National Aeronautics and Space Administration to collaborate with Kanye-West-Adjacent fashion designer Heron Preston? The NASA Logo (and presumably the DSNY logo) is in the public domain, but its usage is restricted - how strict are those guidelines? There's probably a lot to debate as far as like the ethics of government and something that's at its core supposed to be Art intersecting, but so much of Art is tied to Capital is tied to Government is tied to Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah that it seems like it could be easy to get lost in the sauce right now but I want to know what other people think because I'm not really sure maybe it isn't that deep.
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