British fashion

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British fashion

Postby bels » Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:14 am

Was going to make a thread for this but I doubt there's enough interest to sustain it, instead thought I'd post here some of my thoughts about Maharishi:

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I should mention that I don't actually own anything from this brand, though I've come very close a couple of times. Their motto is "Pacifist Military Design" and I think that the brand intent is to take all the cool detailing, practicality, and styling from military clothing, and twist it into a vision that makes sense for a civilian, especially the sort of civilian who might have a problematic relationship with wearing clothes that were designed to help their wearer kill other people. This is twinned with a sort of far east mysticism vibe. The kind of clothing that a Sufi Mujahideen might wear after deciding to bury his AK and start tending sheep instead.



from their about page:

maharishi

Maharishi literally translated means great seer, started in 1994 with the vision to create environmentally sound, fair-trade produced, long-lasting, high-quality, utilitarian clothing. The collection has always included hemp and natural fibers, organic cottons and recycled military clothing.

Maharishi has evolved into one of the UK’s most influential designer labels, offering men’s, women’s and children’s collections available from exclusive fashion retailers worldwide. Founded by Hardy Blechman, maharishi carries a strong ethos of respect for nature while utilising the latest technology.

Blechman, whose former experience lay in the international military and industrial clothing surplus trade, started maharishi by producing hemp and other natural fibre clothing as well as recycling workwear and military surplus. In fact, his work in the field of natural fibres helped them to gain wider acceptance among larger commercial fashion retailers. In 1995, Blechman designed and launched Snopants® – an original design concept with unique detailing that became a significant style statement and the label’s signature. Arena Homme Plus described them in their Millennium round-up as “the most copied pants of the decade” and into the 21st century Snopants® have formed the basis of the evolution of a new style of dressing.

By 1999, the label was producing comprehensive collections for men, women and children in which innovative design, comfort and functional detail form the common thread. In 2000, maharishi was awarded ‘Streetwear Designer of the Year’ at the British Fashion Council Awards. Today, owing to its commercial yet still credible status, it stands as one of the top key brands in men’s, women’s and children’s fashion in the UK’s leading department stores – Harrods, Harvey Nichols and many others.

Despite great commercial growth and a high media profile, maharishi remains a privately owned company, with its ethos and identity truly intact. Blechman’s recent collections have expanded on the maharishi ethos by introducing themes connected with a deep concern for environmental issues such as the exploration of melting Polar Ice, Desert Reform, ‘The Rising Seas’ which resulted in a regenerated earth ‘The Natural Order’. All these themes call for a controlled approach to the use of the world’s natural resources and further promote the responsibility of the individual in its protection.

maharishi prides itself on gaining a respected reputation for not conforming to mainstream fashion trends, placing emphasis on its own points of flintstone and the natural progression of excellent quality, perfect fit and original design. The company continues to develop and expand with a positive attitude, open mind and unique approach, firmly positioning it as one of the most influential and progressive international brands around.


From what I can tell scooting about the internet, the brand has somewhat passed its hayday as a UK streetwear heavyweight though I don't think I was ever aware of it when it was.

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from an article on "The Maha Gang" http://hypebeast.com/2013/6/maha-gang-b ... hi-to-life

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Though they have a lot of stuff using natural fibres like hemp and a lot of straight up recycled clothing, they also stock a couple of more technical items using 3XDRY fabrics and have a spin off (diffusion?) brand called DPMMHI which if I'm honest, I don't totally understand.

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It seems to be a bit more focused on streetwear, branding and camo patterns than the mainline brand which actually seems to put out a more broad range of clothing ranging from sweats and t-shirts to full suits

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Some of their lookbooks are avails here:

http://maharishistore.com/news/category ... son-looks/
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god save the queen

Postby maj » Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:46 pm

thread for young British designers as they're the bestest, below are the ones i really like but i encourage people to add profiles on others old and new. discuss stockists, seasons, interviews and anything to do with them. bonus rep for item reviews.

raeburn

http://christopherraeburn.co.uk/

DESIGNER: Christopher Raeburn

SHOWING IN: London

MORE THAN SPORTSWEAR: It's not just sportswear, it's more about functionality. It's about making things that work properly. I think obviously in sportswear, there's such a drive on technology and on new fabrications and new ways of doing things, like with the military and other expensive technologies. I take an interest in all of those things, simply because they're pushing things forward. But then as I look across my business as a whole, it's about how that mixes with some more traditional fabrics and shapes as well. So while we'll be working with Japanese recycled fabrics or breathables or what have you, we'll also be working with Hainsworth wool, and they're one of the oldest British mills, and we work with Halley Stevensons in waxed fabrics. I think that's part of the uniqueness of working in London, is that you're surrounded by so much heritage but so much newness and modernity as well. It's a super inspiring place to be.


http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashio ... raeburn/#_

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shannon

http://www.christophershannon.co.uk/

M. When you say you know what it is you want to see, can you describe it?
CS: It always seems to be this thing of taking something quite crude & polishing in a direction we want it to go in. I like to play with elements that are sometimes quite horrible. I don't see the point of going to Italy & buying 15 fantastic, luxury fabrics & putting them into suits. There's no point in doing that, because Calvin Klein do that & do it really, really well. There's something about playing with crude elements that I like - taking cheap elements & turning them into something, it's a good challenge. I wouldn't want everything to be really tasteful all the time, there's no interest in that for me.


http://www.mono-zine.com/Mono.Aug2011-C ... Contd.html

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throup

http://aitorthroup.com/

"Up to the age of 7 I was surrounded by medical books because my mum was training to be a doctor", he says. "Sadly she didn't end up being a doctor because we pretty much escaped Argentina in 1987 when it was collapsing".

Despite the personal upheaval this fascination with anatomy stayed with Aitor, who name checks the technical drawings of Leonardo Da Vinci and the illustrations associated with Dutch anatomist Bernhard Siegfried Albinus as early influences.


http://www.oki-ni.com/features/aitor-th ... tions-ss13

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tubb

http://www.aarontubb.com/

can't find an interview man is so new

https://twitter.com/aarontubb

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wu

http://www.peirwu.com/

What's your background and how did you get started in the industry?

I grew up in Singapore. After graduating from high school, I enrolled in a fashion design [program] in [an] art college on a whim. I wanted to experience something else outside of my comfort zone. Art college in Singapore is something kind of taboo – my classmates were secondary school dropouts. It was a completely different environment for me as I [had] went to an elite school. It wasn’t the most creative course, it was more technical, but I had an amazing time. I met a lot of interesting people. I then won a full scholarship to St. Martins. I was really lucky, everything just kind of fell into place. After my second year in London I went on to intern at Raf Simons for two seasons, which was an amazing experience. After my B.A. grad show, I was invited for an interview with Louise Wilson at the M.A, course and then went on to train under her for the next year and a half. After graduating from school, I made a little capsule collection to start, and it’s just kind of rolled on from there.


http://www.styleforum.net/t/364807/a-co ... nnecessary

claiming as she shows designs/produces in london
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Re: god save the queen

Postby rublev » Sun Mar 23, 2014 3:11 pm

Craig Green? London boy. BA Fashion Hons (Print) and MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins.

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Really wish i'd picked up these crinkle pants

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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:12 am

Should mak it non young designers and post my maha thread in.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby maj » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:31 am

i own 3 bits of raeburn so i'll give a quick rundown on what it's like

map print pull over

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i picked this up in the sales after fawning it for a few months, it's essentially a kway made from re purposed parachutes and then printed onto with a bunch of old ordnance survey maps. it's super light and wind proof with an almost silk like texture leaving a lot of people amazed when they touch it. the interesting bit here is every one is different due to the nature of the print and no person has the same looking jacket which is quite cool. construction wise it's solid, nothing spectacular for its OG price lets be honest that's not why you're buying a jacket with a map on it, after a few months of wear there are some long fibres coming loose but a big part of that is the material the jackets made from and lined with. all the major seems at stress points on the shoulders and pockets are covered with grey grosgrain.

raeburns known for the idea of parachute jackets and they're out every season but to me this is the best version, it was a runway piece on the a/w 13 collection and probably one of the highlight pieces up there with the wool duffel. the fit on this is longer than most his much like his short jackets in general meant to end around the bottom of the waistband, lots of room in the body and long sleeves and you could easily size up or down through sizes to get a fit you preferred i went with a medium.

http://christopherraeburn.co.uk/collect ... %84-optics

some pics

casual pants

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i wrote about these when i got them but i have to say they only get better for the price, i'm hoping he makes these staple aditions to his line up and they become base pieces of his collections like the zip up parachute hoodies and the sweats.

the fit on these is something like a 30/31 on the small size with a 32'' inseem, if you can't fit in his tops because of length problems you can definitely fit in his pants.

i've written about these extensively here

today i got my new raeburn pants and they are probably the best pants i have ever owned for the price. usually i don't do for non denim pants let alone spend this much on pants so you may want to take it with a pinch of salt but these things are crazy. upon opening the lovely corner packaging and unwrapping the pants i knew these things were cool, the fabric is like a light cotton twill weave with a grey, lightly mottled almost slate colour and when they're cut into pattern the panels are un-even so it creates an almost dazzle camo effect (maybe/probably accidental) and it's pretty awesome.


they're from s/s 14

here are some pics

polo shirt

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this thing is very nice, the body is a jersey fabric in a colour block pattern but opposed to dying techneiques it's two seperate pieces of fabric joined at the middle with some grosgrain (same as the jacket) with a pocket added in. the collar to this thing is like a poplin weave and has the structure of a a shirt collar making a nice play on regular collars but also that casual formal approach you can see spread throughout raeburns collections. the cut of it was very short and boxy, i'm a small usually and i could easily go up to a large to get the fit i want on it as i'm currently wearing a medium, but a lot of his gear features shorter bodies which i like to attribute to him being a keen cyclist.

http://christopherraeburn.co.uk/collect ... %84-optics

some pics

in conclusion for his prices i'm more than happy to throw money at much of his line retail which doesn't happen for me very often and i hope he continues. his designs are great with solid themes and his nod to sustainable sourcing and minimising waste is something i'm behind. roll on mr burns.

fit pic examples
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Re: god save the queen

Postby maj » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:39 am

6876

http://www.sixeightsevensix.com/

I spent my tertiary years working through Graphics and Fashion degrees in Dundee and Preston, but it was only after I was involved in an internship that I realised the business really wasn’t for me. The work was demanding, and I really wanted to have more freedom to be creative so after a few years of working for different fashion companies I walked out and founded Six Eight Seven Six.


http://styleandsubculture.wordpress.com ... ckenzie-2/

http://davidhellqvist.tumblr.com/post/5 ... h-ca-shoot

http://www.selectism.com/2009/12/18/sel ... interview/



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brand as old as me but i feel he fits the profile, some mod post belas marioyoshi review here.
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Re: Re: god save the queen

Postby ramseames » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:55 am

I will do one of these about cash ca during my layover in hk tomorrow morning.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby ramseames » Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:13 pm

This is why I like doing stuff like this, you learn something new most of the time.

Turns out Cash CA is from 1999 and was originally established as a womenswear line of cashmere and merino knits. Their menswear is much more recent and is a collaborative effort between the brand's lead women's designer Craig Alexander (interview: http://issuu.com/modaexhibitions/docs/wwb229_6685200_ras-100dpi/26), who's also a "knitwear design consultant for a number of UK companies such as Margaret Howell, Alan Paine and John Smedley", and Kazuki Kuraishi, who does many things but is Japanese so not really what the thread is about (interview: http://havenshop.ca/intel/a-conversation-with-kazuki-kuraishi-2/).

ladies: http://www.cashca.com/collections-springsummer-2014-c-2_27.html?sesid=4jtrqsp24or46oag4trhfftc54

mens: http://www.cashca.jp/collection_14ss/

They did a collab with 6876 that's on its second season:

http://www.sixeightsevensix.com/6876-x-cash-ca-2013/
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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:51 pm

Quick ones:

Physical Novel:

The design flintstone came from the minimal techno music scene, with nights having no dress code and people adopting a more casual, loose fit. Physical Novel wanted to add a contemporary, more current twist.

Physical Novel gets carries a similar low crotch (drop crotch) long oversized aesthetic to brands such as such as Vivienne Westwood, Rick Owens, DRK Shadow, KTZ, Miharayasuhiro, Julius, Silent by Damir Doma and Comme des Garcons.




Posthuman Wardrobe:

A Wardrobe for the Posthuman man. A man with heightened awareness and direction searching for meaning in this hyper-reality called existence. He exists on a plane above the consumer-signs-ocean of the ordinary where regular humans drown in their search for identity.


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Common People:

The SS14 collection from Common People reflects the essence of Scottish summer holidays and is inspired by 70’s field trips and influences of Celtic art. The use of primary colours on strong outerwear pieces are mirrored throughout the collection on the branding and Airtex linings. The clean silhouettes and technical details give a fresh contemporary edg


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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:56 pm

Random store I found:

https://www.wolfandbadger.com/
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Re: god save the queen

Postby verilyvert » Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:24 am

1205 by Paula Gerbase
http://www.1205.eu/

About 1205
1205 was spurned by a need for timeless and utilitarian clothing. The collection features menswear and womenswear with a strong emphasis on the idea of a unisex wardrobe - the intriguing balance between masculinity and femininity. Pleat fronted tailored trousers are made in contrasting fabrics, oversized tee’s in wools, the classic shawl collar jacket and 1205’s elegant cotton shirting - all stripped of excessive detailing - can be worn by both men and women.

1205’s colour palette adopts a modern and austere vision in a colourful monochrome of greys, blues, blacks and whites. The silhouette embraces designer Paula Gerbase’s tailoring education. Traditional tailoring techniques and cut are fused with a relaxed sensitivity while using high quality fabrics, offering a wealth of textures from knit jersey and highest quality English wool/mohairs to high-count Swiss cottons and modernist nylons.

The deconstruction of tailored norms creates a collection with a focus on considered design, thoughtful fabric choices, precision and purity.


About Paula Gerbase
Paula Gerbase is the designer behind 1205.

A Central Saint Martins Womenswear alumna, Gerbase trained in couture tailoring at the atelier of Hardy Amies, Savile Row followed by a 5 year stint as Head Designer of venerable Savile Row tailor Kilgour. It was during her time on Savile Row that Gerbase developed her uncompromising eye for quality of fabric and construction and her distinct minimalist aesthetic.

As a consequence of her menswear and couture training, quality of cut and fabric are paramount in Gerbase’s design. Looking at everything in a microscopic way, results in a unique, modern, almost clinical point of view.

Gerbase’s distinct collections of menswear, womenswear and unisex pieces feature her trademark sensitive use of luxury fabrics and erudite pattern construction for a modern-contemporary muse, allowing the designer to play with the fine lines between masculinity and femininity, a tension which is ever present in her work.


Vogue's writeup on her S/S 14 runway show
THE show notes for 1205 comprised of fabric samples set in card: a grid of seersucker, mohair, Japanese needle-punch denim and a silk and cotton mix. It was a microcosmic glance of the collection. Paula Gerbase has been crafting her androgynous aesthetic since graduating from Central Saint Martins, but five years as head designer of Savile Row`s Kilgour have taught her the art of fine tailoring. Girls stepped out in crisp white shirt dresses and oversized grey coats and blazers in the finest wool, while boys wore clean suits and fine wool sweaters. Navy cropped boiler suits were worn with mens-style sandals and multi-pocketed clutch bags; mid-length pleat skirts were interspersed with easy wide-leg cropped suits in blue silk; and a single shift dress that delicately rippled around the female form particularly stood out. Androgynous and utilitarian, 1205's aesthetic is one about redefining notions of gender, offering its take on unisex dressing through masculine tailoring and feminine textures.


Photos from the S/S 14 show
Spoiler:
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This is the one 1205 piece I own. Its the Klein waterproof wool flannel blazer.
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Fabric and construction are first class. Any jacket I've tried on off the rack has needed alterations of some sort. This is the first and only off the rack jacket I've ever worn that I decided needed none. Shoulders/chest/waist/collar/sleeve pitch/sleeve length - everything just worked. Detailing on the shoulders, and a tab collar offer a casual personal touch, which I like. Flannel is smooth and soft. I was surprised when the sales rep told me it was waterproof, and I replied that I needed proof. He was kind enough to let me take the jacket into the store washroom and run it under that tap. The water slid right off the wool, and after a thorough soaking the jacket remained dry. I bought it then, and since have been very happy with it.

I keep going back to the same store and checking out the other 1205 products. Every one has impressed me as a solid piece, but I'm just not ready to throw down for another item. Until then, I'll enjoy looking (smiling)
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Re: god save the queen

Postby can- » Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:34 am

someone post gymphlex 1906
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Re: god save the queen

Postby odradek » Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:27 am

yo that 1205 stuff looks like some good shit and i'm kind of surprised i've never heard of them. kinda utility aspects of nanamica? and i guess the pricing scheme, too =/
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Re: god save the queen

Postby anonomous » Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:09 pm

This is for you maj

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Re: god save the queen

Postby maj » Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:08 am

maj wrote:6876

http://www.sixeightsevensix.com/

I spent my tertiary years working through Graphics and Fashion degrees in Dundee and Preston, but it was only after I was involved in an internship that I realised the business really wasn’t for me. The work was demanding, and I really wanted to have more freedom to be creative so after a few years of working for different fashion companies I walked out and founded Six Eight Seven Six.


http://styleandsubculture.wordpress.com ... ckenzie-2/

http://davidhellqvist.tumblr.com/post/5 ... h-ca-shoot

http://www.selectism.com/2009/12/18/sel ... interview/



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brand as old as me but i feel he fits the profile, some mod post belas marioyoshi review here.


picked up there stapleton rain coat and i have to say i'm thoroughly impressed.

i'd been looking for some formal-ish outwear for a while which i could also wear a bit casually for a while and settled on the idea of a mac, this was hard at first because there is only one "mac" and they happen to cost quite a bit. after quite a bit of searching i came across this offering from 6876 something bela told me to get on a while ago but there was never anything to make me reach for my wallet until this, i'd eyed it for about 4 months before they knocked the price down and i had to move.

i first ordered the manilla colour in small but after some deliberation and advice from others i decided it was too small and returned it for a m. expecting to get it some time next week because of bank holidays and such a settled in for a long weekend of "post purchase arrival anxiety" only to be shocked to hear the doorbell wring and find my local mail man standing there with a large brown box which looked all too familiar. after i sent them the tracking number for the return yesterday they had banged the medium in the post the same day without receiving what i sent them, to me that is unheard of and is something i value strongly in terms of customer/designer relations and is tribute to their small size and the benefits it brings. upon opening this anonymous brown box i was greeted by a lovely light stone beige colour which is just what i was expecting, hastily taking off the wrapping to feel the fabric i'm met with this heavy twill which feels dense and sturdy giving the coat good structure as all too many "cheaper" macs don't have. the jacket is then lined with black cotton all the way through the body and the arms giving a great feel when worn over a single layer in the spring months. all round a sturdy bit of kit.

on the design front it's lovely all the pockets/collar/cuffs/back vent have angular indents and extensions as present in a lot of 6876 to separate it from the originals and add to the idea that it is a very much modern updated version, it also helps to reduce the formality in my mind which is a strong plus. all the cuffs, pockets and vent are closed with heavy duty metal hard wear which feels great, which is matched by the riri m6 zip on the front, decent hardware impresses me as nothing is shitter than dodgy zip which gets stuck or some weak snaps. all the seams where cotton is joined together on the inside is bonded over and finished which not only looks nicer but makes it less likely to fray and fall to bits.

all in all i picked this up for £265 and it retails for £340 if i received this retail i would be more than pleased by it as it's nearest competitor in my mind is a good £300 more. i will be looking into getting more of their pieces and have absolutely no problems paying rrp in the future as not only is their customer service fantastic, but the product they supply at the price they sell it for is unmatched.

below are some pics

Spoiler:
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and here is a fit in various light/ poses

Spoiler:
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Re: god save the queen

Postby chilljin » Wed Apr 23, 2014 4:52 am

allo chaps jus a cheeky reminder today is the ol st georges day is it not.

i ope all u lads are swellin with national pride i am n u hav fish n chips for din dins.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Wed Apr 23, 2014 4:58 am

St George's day is the day I can't tell racists from normal folks due to the masses of red crosses about.

Normally paint my face with one if I'm going out to avoid getting my head kicked in (joke)
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Re: god save the queen

Postby can- » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:01 pm

it's expensive to import clothing from the uk to the USA
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Re: god save the queen

Postby can- » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:03 pm

does anyone actually have an OG mackintosh? there are a shit ton on yoox but they all cost a grip. I bet they are nice
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Re: god save the queen

Postby can- » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:05 pm

maj does it bother you that the zip on that runs from ur belly button to ur nips?
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Re: god save the queen

Postby maj » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:28 pm

I've never noticed it until you pointed it out
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Re: god save the queen

Postby smiles » Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:13 pm

TENDER TYPE 420 SHIRT. similar to this one: http://www.tenderstores.com/type-420-ve ... ote-shirt/
picked this up at a local shop (delstore).

I've always been interested in tender so when I got the chance to pick this up on sale I jumped on it. Not really sure how to describe it so I'll just list the things I like about it.

- it's a lovely ecru colour with light blue train track like stripes all throughout the shirt. I like how the pockets the the cuffs alternate the direction of the stripes.
- I like how small the cuffs are. it makes it easy to cuff them and also looks good unrolled.
- I like the looser fit, especially in the arms. the back hem is incredible as well, a sort of graceful tail that flows behind me
- i like the sizing on tender. I can be pretty sure that a size 2 is going to fit me, and in pinch size 3 would do as well.
- collar is incredible, very warped and quite short. It lays kind of spread open when I don't button it up all the way which is cash.
- construction is good i guess. i mean it's not falling apart or anything. I don't like to go on about that kind of stuff anyways and I get the sense that bill kroll isn't interested in the heritage for heritage's sake kind of person.
- the logo is cute
-can imagine it will look better worn in.

overall very impressed with tender. I have a woad dyed shirt and pants as well and they are nice too. given the opportunity, i would certainly pick up more items.

some pictures :woop:

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Re: god save the queen

Postby can- » Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:20 pm

can you confirm that there is no collar band? cant tell from pics. also looks like there is no yoke. very cool how the box pleat starts at the top by the collar.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby smiles » Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:28 pm

don't think so. here's some more pictures. The new shirts have no shoulder seams which sounds awesome.

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草地跑過的腳印
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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Fri May 09, 2014 6:01 pm

Folk always get slept on.

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Though looking at their website, their pricing isn't fucking around and their models look a bit chiefesh. That said I think I'll get that shirt jacket
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Re: god save the queen

Postby Syeknom » Fri May 09, 2014 6:06 pm

Folk stuff is so nice in person but every time I want to buy a piece I realise there's something about it that I don't like and I back out.

I fear I'm not quite whimsical enough for them :(
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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Fri May 16, 2014 3:58 am

I did the last five days in Norfolk, and whilst wandering around Holt I stumbled upon the Old Town store:

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Great place, friendly people, garmz are lovely. Didn't realise everything they did was MTO but that just makes it cooler. I bought a long coat which I have no use for. Will post a pic when it gets into a fit.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby bels » Sun May 18, 2014 7:21 pm

On that UK vintage tip

http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/

Bit more costume than anything though.
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Re: god save the queen

Postby Syeknom » Mon May 19, 2014 6:23 am

Elena Dawson

London born designer who co-founded Paul Harnden Clothiers in 2000. In 2006 she launched an independent label for womenswear and menswear channeling her victorian influences through a ghostly spirit realm. Secretive and elusive (her website is just an email link and a blog and stockists don't seem to have pieces listed on their sites). Flowers are a recurring motif.

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Re: god save the queen

Postby maj » Thu May 22, 2014 10:54 am

christopher raeburn ss14 packable parachute hoody

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made in europe, usual raeburn construction from other posts, single layer

Spoiler:
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